Daboy3000

The wiring to the lock actuator can cause these types of issues, it's rarey the microswitch.

17 hours ago, GTSMarky said:

I ordered and booked a fitting slot to then have that slot refused 4 times at which point I'd had enough.

Got a pair of Falkens on the tin top which apparently are OK & fitted at a place that's 5 mins walk away.  It has zero power and dynamics so as long as they last long enough for when I give it back I'm happy.

I had this a few weeks ago too.  I didn't realise, but they have to phone the garage from South Africa to book in the job.   They never answer the phone at my local one so BC just kept coming back saying they couldn't deliver them for that date.  I've bought 16 tyres from them over the last 5 years, never had a problem until then.

Have you had the ECU under the passengers seat recommissioned, if not, this has to be some of the problems.  Mine is a little dodgy and has been drowned in the past.  One thing it does sometimes is flick the locking on and off as I drive, normally does it 5 times or so then stops. The red light stays on the locking switch, even if you press it.  Other odd things happen at times too.  I can't think of one other thing that may affect so many things.

5 minutes ago, phazed said:

I have just come in for a cup of tea after completing the underside, backend of my car. Even in my garage with an infrared heater on it is bloody freezing! Just trying to think of a few things to do in the house to stop me going back outside this afternoon!

You driveway guys must be made sterner stuff!

I was working on mine most the weekend, on the driveway.  I'm glad the real cold didn't hit the South until today.  I miss my pop up garage and long for a proper garage big enough to work on a car!

Hi and welcome.  Can't help with your question i'm afraid. 

I'm also a rescuer of an aged 986.  It's not a cheap game but you being able to do a lot of work will help.  Good luck!

I don't know how you find it so easy.  You have to open the door enough to be able to give it a good push shut, while trying to hold it in place.  The more you open the door the further away the tag is.  I can just hear the microswitches screaming at me to stop!

Mine seems to be an inch of material that's quite thick, it's very tricky to hold it in place and shut the door.  My only gripe as the cover is very good in general.

This is what I am currently using. Lots better than a full cover.  But if it's been damp for a while,  just on top of the rear wing, underneath the cover I am getting the lacquer lifting a but.  Probably down to a bad repair at some point, but it is the cover that has exacerbated it.

I'm guessing you rarely secure it by closing the door onto those little tags either.

Covers on cars can be worse in the long run, much better to fix the issues than cover the car.  That traps moisture and in my case has caused the lacquer to peel, you may also find that if there is any movement in the wind then your paint will get damaged.  I have been fighting leaks since I bought the car to restore a few years ago, so far I have fixed 3 issues not including a couple of blocked drains.  The last two (fingers crossed) are the heater matrix gasket and drivers door membrane (both on order).  I am becoming an expert on 986 leaks!!

Mould equals damp. With my current leaks the gearstick is mouldy in a week! 

12 hours ago, ATM said:

But you can see why I might have thought it was this or part of this  -

 

heater matrix top cover/ gasket/seal

After my rubbish description it could have been anything! 🤣

Thats the cabin filter cover

35 minutes ago, ATM said:

I'd like to see them when they arrive

It will look like this

3 hours ago, ATM said:

New what?

9 hours ago, Daboy3000 said:

the heater matrix top cover/ gasket/seal.

I've ordered a new one from an OPC, got a new door membrane on order too. 

I'm on a mission now, can't even cover it in these winds. 

Well it's not that, now I have the carpet up I can see it trickling down from the centre so I am guessing it must be the heater matrix top cover/ gasket/seal.  If it ever stops raining I will look from the outside.

More leaks part 65

So, I am no longer leaking behind the drivers seat but do need to change the door membrane and then I think that could be good for the drivers side.

But.....  Today while checking the passengers side I found it wet at the front, rear is bone dry so at least fix 63 is holding up.  I noticed that a pipe runs down the side of the centre console, under the carpet. It was held on with a cable tie and the hole it goes too is very crusty.  After a few tests pooring water around the bottom of the windscreen, down the drain hole and around the battery etc I did not notice anything leaking inside, so I am guessing it has to do with this pipe.

Is this an AC drain, heater matrix?  Anyone know what to, is it a fault or just a badly sealed pipe?

Don't know if it makes a difference but my AC doesn't blow cold so I have the AC part of the heating off, I have been running it full blast to dry out previous damp on my last recent journey.

Update: I think I have found my problem

Replaced the "other" drip tray underneath the clamshell. Fingers crossed this was the final leak!

I dream of leaving the cover off during wet weather, am I being unrealistic?

They probably leave the car during the day to look for food.  I would start with sorting out your garage, look for any signs or places where they can get in. They can fit through a hole as big as a 10p

21 minutes ago, alank said:

Fairy liquid, and a polish afterwards. No need for all these overpriced gimmicks

Washing-up liquid is engineered specifically to break down and remove grease, so it will strip any wax or paint sealant from surfaces on your car. Although it gets the car “clean”, dish soap will cause more harm than good and can even dull paint

https://www.hagerty.co.uk/articles/maintenance-and-gear/10-car-cleaning-mistakes-to-avoid/

This is a nice little guide - http://www.944racing.de/wheelweights.php

All 17s on 986 wheels are minimum 7" wide.  987s went down to 6.5" minimum.

I haven't noticed any ride quality difference going to 18s but I don't do a lot of miles.

Not sure if you know this but often the caliper bolts can be seized, making it very difficult and time consuming to remove.  Could add some costs that you haven't factored in.

Hopefully with yours being 8 years newer than mine it should be ok. 

I was gutted that I recently missed a genuine grey one that sold for £60 on FB.

@kdh I'm only in Polegate if you need a hand.

I can't remember if it's been asked but how is the box under the passenger seat? if it's been wet it could be causing some of your issues.