The Caped Crusader

I wonder if they're the original. 

Well done for tackling this yourself. You'll have the satisfaction of sorting it at a very reasonable price. 

ATS will nitrogen test the system for you (free in my local branch). They pressurise it and, depending on how big the leak is, you should be hear a hiss of air escaping. You could take a spray bottle of car wash soap mix to spray on the condensers and pipes that run under the car (they're covered by a panel) to show air bubbles. My money would be on the condensers. Worst case it's one of the pipes as highlighted above. Condensors and pipes are all relatively easy to change. 

3 hours ago, Photogirl said:

It's not a question of taking it back - the car is already there undergoing a service plus I understand I can't legally drive it away due to the failed MOT. So I was going to get those essentials done then the other things elsewhere. I was interested in getting some thoughts on the prices. It appears they're quite similar at the local indis I've consulted, so it was helpful to get TROOPER88's contact details.

Apologies for causing frustration - that wasn't my intent - this is a bit of a learning process. I'll leave it here and update when there's a resolution. Many thanks indeed to all who have contributed. 

@PhotogirlI think I speak for all the contributors on this thread when I say, we just don't want to see you overcharged when it is so easily avoidable. Hope you get it all sorted. 

Who said you couldn't drive it away after a failed MOT? You can unless it's failed on something classed as 'dangerous'. If not, you've got 10 days to go and get it fixed before retest. 

I don't understand why you're even bothering taking the car back to them. MOT or not, get it trailered to @TROOPER88 for a few hundred and get it all checked and sorted for a reasonable sum.

Is it just me that's getting frustrated with this thread? 🤔

I would just get the car trailered to @TROOPER88 and get everything sorted by him. Job done!... And go on holiday with the savings!... Maybe the Maldives! 😂

4 hours ago, Rav said:

and after all that. The car still is making humming noises.... A lot less, but its still present. 

Oddly, I feel that the car is running better - breathing better, more agile. Is this possible?

I have also noticed a new oil leak.

Is it time for a Tesla model S?

I think it's time to bite the bullet and take it to a trusted independent for a diagnosis. 

4 hours ago, bandit_287 said:

I’ve just bought a black GTS, it’s triple black but I’ve never been a fan of black wheels. I’m thinking of a wheel colour change to gun metal or silver or maybe a two tone, anybody handy with photoshop or got a recommendation for a colour change? There’s a place near me I can get them done as they re-furbed and diamond cut the wheels on my 987.2 years ago. 
 

https://www.flickr.com/gp/163906813@N06/ow2JqBW8a5

Not sure if the link will work?

I'm with you on not liking black wheels. I know this is probably contrary to the opinion of most folk these days, but, I really like standard light silver. The wheel design stands out and they look nice and bright in overcast conditions. 

I watched your video and immediately thought that the fuel cap was very loose when you unscrewed it. Also, when you re tighten at the end of the video, I don't hear any clicks. Mine (987) clicks upon re-tightening. 

https://tenor.com/1Dr4.gif

I have the Berty987 mod on my car and can override the PSE at any time.

Only one thing I did different was that I put a small high quality rocker switch in the ashtray thereby retaining the OE look. 

8 minutes ago, phazed said:

My son called BMG indie car parts supplier that he has an account with at 5.15pm on Friday. They delivered a set of handbrake shoes by 10.30am on Saturday, great service.

Offside brake shoes had lost their linings! All bits still in the drum. Changed the brake shoes and all is well. What a bugger to work out how to remove the retaining springs! First side took about 2 hours with lots of swearing, other side only about half an hour….

What was the difficulty in getting the springs off? 

I don't understand how changing brake pads can in any way affect the handbrake.

If in fact you've not removed the discs and not touched the handbrake cables going into the hub, I would suggest a good look at the mechanism.. even if that means removing a disc to do so. 

9 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

No that isn’t my problem, the delay is between getting closer to an object and changing the tone of the sensors. I have to reverse a bit, wait 1-2s, listen for the beeps to change, reverse a bit more if necessary. Annoying but still quicker than getting out to look. 

That's not the same issue I have. 

3 hours ago, Codfanglers said:

My car is a manual and no issues at all. It gives a single beep when selecting reverse then goes silent until something is within range. The system will become active whenever the reversing lights are on.

 

That's interesting because the Cobra ones I fitted do not work as well. 

21 hours ago, Codfanglers said:

One of my first jobs was to fit a set of reversing sensors. 

The ones I bought were in a plain white box and similar to the ones in the link below. Obviously some will say they are a pile of **** because they are only £20 but mine have worked faultlessly for the best part of two years. 

OEM FLUSH FIT PARKING SENSOR KIT - CLEARANCE STOCK | eBay

I've used the hole saw to fit bumper sensors in the past but the set I bought similar to the one above had a tool like the one below which I would recommend you use as it gives a better finish with a slightly radiused smooth hole.

Sealey Parking Sensor Aid Bumper Hole Cutter 19mm 5054511203646 | eBay 

A light skim of spray colour then lacquer to the sensors. Don't worry about getting paint on the foam - it just peels off in a ring once it has dried.

I fitted the sensors into the holders before sticking into the bumper. Cleaned the bumper so the 3M pads stuck but also keyed around the holders and added three dots of epoxy resin to make sure they stay in place. The sensors screw into the holders so they can be adjusted and set flush with the bumper but make sure you don't put ANY stress on the cables.

Power from the reversing lights - I have no can-bus issues.

I also fitted one of these type cameras between the number plate lights whilst the bumper was off.

Car Reversing Rear View Camera Infrared Night Vision Auto Parking Monitor | eBay

Run the alarm cable into the cabin under the rain tray - no holes needed. I tried it in the boot but couldn't hear it well enough.

The hardest part is removing and re-fitting the bumper Torx screws under the rear spoiler. A 6mm hex ratchet for £8 is a good investment for accessing these.

DON'T fit front parking sensors. My son fitted a combined set and they were a PITA.

I don't know if they sound OEM but they look it and do the job perfectly well.

 

And no issues with the sensors not working when you put the car into reverse when just started? Is your car a tiptronic? 

22 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

I fitted Cobra flush sensors. Sadly between buying it in UK, posting it to Portugal, getting sensors painted and fitted, it gives an inconvenience of delayed reaction and now I can’t return it. But generally it works and looks great, I just need to reverse slowly. 

I had the exact same issue with these sensors - there is a delay when the car is first started and you engage reverse. It pretty much means they're useless for immediate use. I thought it was canbus related so bought a canbus isolator. All to no avail. 

Laserline do a fully flush kit so may be worth checking theirs to see if it's 100% compatible. 

6 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Never had an issue with Copaslip myself, revisited components two years down the line, and still been easy to move, understand what you are saying about a proprietary product, however, anything is better than nothing!

You're down in a lovely dry part of the country, I'm in Gotham City... and sometimes the rust belt of the West of Scotland! 😂

A wee tip: don't use aluminium anti-seize for reasssemly. Use AC50 grease instead. 

Low voltage on the car battery can cause this. Thing is, low voltage does not necessarily mean the car won't start - it still would. Anything below 12v can send the electrics haywire. If you have a multimeter, check the battery voltage. In the meantime, you should be be able to lock the car with the key only. 

4 hours ago, moonshine said:

That's what I said. It's a mechanical failure, not wear and tear.

The service manager said they need to code the failure into the Porcshe system and the code for the deflection pully and  the bolt both start with the same p/n and the P/n is excluded on the porsche system. 

That's a bit of 'computer says no'!  Common sense should be used. A bolt snapping is not a faulted of a wear and tear item like a tensioner and its bearing etc. 

6 hours ago, Bike Loon said:

Just looked and the exhaust went back to original position with a gentle pull... I will try to get to the clamps when its not raining and see if they need tightening a bit now.

Yeah thats the thing 2 tons + of VW Transporter smacking into the back when I am braking makes me wonder what can't be seen.

I have thought about it overnight and I am not going to take it to the approved repairer. Its not for my insurance company to choose and the claim will be off the VW insurance. Him hitting the rear of my car in a 20mph limit and doing that amount of damage is pretty clear cut to start with but there are also 2 witnesses who said he was going up the road at full throttle.

The garage that did my old 987 will be getting the work. They made this 129,000 cars front end look like this

I would agree with your sentiment of not taking it to someone you know will do a good job. Some of the approved repairers are large volume ones and are not great. 

Marcus, I would simply replace the temp sensor yourself. It'll take you longer to take the cover off behind the seats than replace the sensor. Do it quickly and you only lose a small amount of coolant. 

Regarding low coolant, it may be you have a sweat from one of the coolant hoses that are synonymous for leaking - they sit behind the front wheels. It's possibly this that's lowered the coolant level slightly.