The Caped Crusader
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Posts posted by The Caped Crusader
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A friend had this on a brake light on a VW a few years ago. I went over and replaced the bulb with an Osram Ultralife - something I use as a default. It's still working to this day.
Ultralife are a long life bulb and generally last five years. There are other manufacturers that make long life bulbs too, like Ring and Bosch. The Osrams are available cheaply from Car Parts 4 Less though.
Interestingly, all older model Porsches came with long life bulbs from the factory but, if you buy a replacement from an OPC it's NOT a long life one they supply. 😕
Peugeots, on the other hand, came with cheap bulbs from the factory. Hence the reason so many fail their first MOTs.
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It's the zebra strip that forms the connection between the lcd and the circuit board. I would focus on that.
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1 hour ago, Dermot said:
I foolishly ordered the drier and PAG46 oil from Autodoc. I did not realise they are German based, ordered last Tues and has still not come so my weekend job did not happen.
I tried to get a thimble of AC Condenser oil over the weekend from Kwik Fit and ATS to al least do the condensers, it was like I was speaking a foreign language, totally unhelpful.
I usually use a light smear of silicon grease on the o-rings. Helps the whole lot go together easily and I've never had a leak. In fact, the grease actually acts as a compressed seal in itself.
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51 minutes ago, McDonald said:
Your question made me go out to the car & check. I was happy enough that the bonnet stayed open securely.
The rise damps near the top - a perfect action. @BBB's link sent me to perfect kit. I'm very happy.
I'm glad it does damp when it gets to the top. I bought some of fleabay and they don't. I just assumed that it was only the genuine Porsche ones that damped near the top. It's good to know that the ones Frazerpart sell are the correct spec. Saves me having to buy genuine ones.
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Do the replacement struts cause the bonnet to bounce a bit when the bonnet gets to its fully open position or does it get near the top and then slow down for the last few inches?
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I have never used the heater on the auto setting with the top down. I don't think it would be able monitor and regulate the cabin temperature properly with all the outside air blowing about.
With the top down in cold weather I set the temp to max, air con off, divert air to feet and face only and vary the fan speed depending on how warm I want it. Once the car is up to temperature the air from the vents is literally scorching - you can't keep your hand in front of the vent for more than a few seconds before it gets uncomfortable.
One thing I did do a few years ago, when replacing the water pump was to flush the cooling system five times with fresh water by filling, running the car for ten minutes with the bleed valve area elevated and then empty and repeat the process before finally filling with coolant. I did this until the water ran clean and clear when draining. I don't know if this extensive flush made any difference though. Heater has always been very effective.
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7 hours ago, Kenbo1000 said:
Problem sorted. New mirror motor from OPC (£67 + vat) ten minutes to change and job done.
Glad it's all sorted.
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Alas, I'm in Gotham. If he was closer though... POW!... WHACK!
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Had this problem many years ago on my 987. A new motor fixed it. Must have been something to do with the position sensor in the motor.
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I use Wet and Forget for my roof and there isn't a hint of green on it anywhere. I generally find it keeps the roof very clean looking too.
Oh, and it's great for patios too! 😉
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I think the best thing that can happen is that the studs snap when you try and remove the skinny nuts. You can then attack the remaining pressed in studs with MAP gas, if you have it, and knock them out once they're red hot.
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13 minutes ago, BBB said:
Just a heads up @Sammysmiths, must silicone sealants cure by giving off acetic acid. Admittedly a long time ago, but when I sealed a set of rear lights on another car, because I had water leaking into the boot, the sealant caused a lot of rusting and I post-rationalised it to the acidic sealant eating through the paint.
That's because there are two types of silicone. This is the type you would use for use near or onto metal. It's non-corrosive and neutral curing.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-785n-sanitary-sealant-clear-310ml/373fg
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Glad you got it sorted.
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On 1/12/2021 at 4:40 PM, Remodot said:
I put everything back together today, including new air filter. Old one was just a year old, 6k miles, but as I had engine cover off and euro parts had 37% off I replaced it.
Anyway car started OK, fast idle seemed a bit erratic, took it for a spin to warm engine up, seemed to drive well with no issues, however when idling it soimds and feels a bit rough. Ticks over at around 800rpm but needle fluctuating by around 100 rpm.
Any thoughts? Could I have damaged something or maybe kinked a vacuum pipe? It would be good to have some pointers before I remove the engine cover again.
Thanks
Did you ever manage to get this fixed?
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3 hours ago, The Caped Crusader said:
Nope. The bolt is M8 so the commensurate torque required would be around 25nm. I've never had any issues using them.
I've just checked the workshop manual and the correct torque is 23Nm (17 ftlb).
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3 hours ago, moospeed said:
Won’t brass nuts be too soft to get any decent torque?
Nope. The bolt is M8 so the commensurate torque required would be around 25nm. I've never had any issues using them.
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12 hours ago, Jago said:
Fixed it with the bolts and checked the other side until the gaskets arrive next week then will swap for high tensile
You don't need high tensile bolts for these flanges. They are not a high stress connection like a suspension bolt. Stainless steel is more than adequate. Although, as others have said, stainless bolt with brass nut would be best as it is less susceptible to galling - welding together through heat cycles. The thing is, that part of the exhaust is not a bit that gets super hot like the exhaust manifold.
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5 minutes ago, Photogirl said:
I don't think they'll fit a 986. You would want these instead if you need black: 20x BLACK WHEEL BOLTS & LOCKS - PORSCHE BOXSTER 986 987 ALLOY STUD NUTS [20Fe] | eBay
They look identical, save the locks.
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13 minutes ago, sa utah said:
Climate control buttons sorted. Ali express parts. Dead easy job so no excuse for not doing it
Also, what's the illumination like compared to the originals?
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13 minutes ago, sa utah said:
Climate control buttons sorted. Ali express parts. Dead easy job so no excuse for not doing it
Did you watch any specific videos on YouTube showing how to change them?
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1 hour ago, Sammysmiths said:
Thanks @Sammysmiths, it worked.
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1 hour ago, Sammysmiths said:
£30 off Aliexpress
Work perfectly.
Could you post a link to them. I can only find the stickers.
Alarm problem
in 981
Posted
Had this problem on my 987 some years ago. Alarm was going off for no reason. Tested the battery, which appeared healthy - started the car etc - but was sitting at 11.5 volts. New battery fixed the issues.