The Caped Crusader

7 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

That car was an absolute pain.

It had a new clutch, flywheel and release bearing 2000 miles ago fitted by another garage.

A noise would appear from the transmission usually when hot and left to idle. Stripped the box out and swapped with another known good box - noise still there.

Then switched the 'new' clutch and bearing to new parts - noise still there.

Third time I removed the 'new' flywheel' and swapped, this was the source of the problem. I believe that garage number 1 did not fit it correctly - most likely did not torque up in the correct sequence causing it to be fractionally not flush /true. When hot this movement would cause vibration through the box.

An extremely rare fault but all sorted now

Good on you for persevering and getting to the bottom of the problem. 

On 5/9/2021 at 4:58 PM, TROOPER88 said:

Thanks, yes, one of mine.

I do not like to comment on how long someone says they can do a job in tbh.

Some people work quickly and others slowly.

As Bally says, for a DIY'er, I would suggest you do it over 2 days as it is all physically challenging.

Bally - no need to remove the gear cables from the bracket, remove the bracket from the box instead 👍

To anyone wanting to give it a go, there is no need to remove the cats, just the muffler. 

Most will require new exhaust clamps, collars and muffler to cat fixings.

I have unfortunately had the box of one 986 3 times in the past week - fastest so far is just over an hour!

 

Jeez, you must be sick of doing it! 😀 Why so many times? 

Thanks for posting. I'm going to look at getting one.

@bally4563 , what type of portable acetylene kit did you use? 

2 minutes ago, andygo said:

Oil change today. My 987.2 was 'serviced' before I bought it in October kast year. I have done 2,500 miles since.

Pollen filter = minging, date stamped 2015, now swapped.

Air filter, filthy, changed.

Oil filter, caked in dust and oily film. There's no way that was changed 2,500 miles ago, the oily film was unmarked.

Oli drain plug, weeping slightly, no way that was a fresh crush washer. Just wonder what crappy oil was in the sump, guessing some cheap nasty stuff. It's got Millers fully synthetic now, cost me £95 for 8 litres.

When I bled the brakes after swapping to a GT3 M/C, inner caliper bleed nipples had clearly never been touched, outer ones had.

So much for full OPC history...

That's a bit strange to say the least. Anytime my car has been serviced by the dealer, I've always asked for the old parts back - the oil filter I've always opened up to check for any debris. 

7 hours ago, iborguk said:

I have a Sealey one which has an interior and exterior plastic liner (to protect wheel bolts and wheels respectively)

 

I didn't know the made ones with interior lining too. 

12 hours ago, Boxstercol said:

Got to do mine again when the weather is better.

How have you managed to refit them without marking them?

When I spray mine & refit them, I always end up chipping the edges etc, that’s with using a proper plastic lined socket too.

Is the plastic lining not on the outside of the socket though? 

I would agree with what others have said. It should be smooth. After doing the powder primer the wheel should be inspected and either sanded to remove the imperfections or, if too deep, and as Stuart21UK said, the customer contacted to explain that the corrosion is too deep in some areas for a perfectly flat finish. Lepsons apparently inspect the wheel at every stage. 

I'd definitely take that back to them and ask them to rectify it. 

1 minute ago, Boxstercol said:

Didn’t realise that Lepsons charge extra for powdercoating the inside of the wheel - how tight is that?!?!

I had mine done by a local franchise of The Wheel Specialist a few years ago. To be honest I’ve always been dissatisfied with the finish of them. Whilst not ‘bad’ they are far from perfect & wish I had paid the extra at the time to have had Exel do them. I’ve never seen a bad review of his wheel refurbs

I've seen lots of powdercoated wheels on display at various local powdercoaters. I've never been overly impressed with the finish. The thing is, from a distance, and when transformed from being poor condition in the first place, they'll always look good. It's the orange peel that bugs me the most though. 

Lepsons (this is who Chris at Exel uses too) powdercoat using an automated process that keeps the wheels flat when going through the oven. The result is that you get virtually no orange peel. 

I've visited lots of local wheel refurbishment companies in the past and, without exception, there is always orange peel with their finish. All of them powdercoat. This puts me right off powdercoating. Am I being too fussy?

Lepsons is good, of that there is no doubt. The thing is, they powdercoat only the face of silver wheels, the barrel stays primer coloured. This means that when they fire powdercoat through the spokes, you get a 'overspray' in the barrel. They can powdercoat the inside of the wheel too but it costs £50+vat per wheel on top of their standard refurb charge. 

Have a read of this...

https://www.planet-9.com/threads/message-steering-support-limited-possible-to-drive.222225/

4 hours ago, mark-yorkshire said:

Fitted led lights in trunk and front tonight.A simple swap ( a minute each) of the oem lights for these:

 

I know someone that changed all their interior lights to cool white LED and couldn't see a damn thing in the car at night! 

I much prefer warm white light as a human eye can see much better with a lower colour temperature. Hence why old yellow sodium street lights are much better than the modern LED ones for actually seeing objects, not for distinguishing colour.

For LED lights I can't help thinking it's a bit like The Emperor's New Clothes. 

Each to their own though and I hope you don't take my post the wrong way. 

32 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

No once the old partial corroded nuts etc were melted off, whilst still glowing punched out the bolt/stud, if that makes sense? 

I've just realised you meant the triangular flange bolts. I've done the same before albeit with MAPP gas as I didn't have access to Oxy acetylene. 

17 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Well last time I did this job I ended up drilling them out......never again!!

Oxy Acetlyne , cut what was left of the nuts, glowing red , good punch and out, happy days , 30 mins a side, new bolts and gaskets 

You mean you used a punch to turn them anticlockwise to loosen them? Did you remove them with the manifold still in-situ? 

28 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Replaced cat to manifold bolts, mate lent me his hot axe, murdered them!!!

Please tell us more. 

7 hours ago, detail1 said:

Gave the old girl a fizz over with the machine polisher and ceramic coatings.

 

Awesome finish. Well done. 

14 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Ended up pulling the hub off got some heat in and wailed!!it backwards and forwards, even the last 20 mm fought me !!

At least you got it out. That's the main thing. 

On the subject of copaslip, I grease pretty much everything. I use a combination of Sealey aluminium grease for suspension/brakes and ACF50 grease for fittings and general greasing. 

I even grease brake pipes/lines and bleed screws.

I have come across some totally seized bleed screws previously where I've had to resort to MAP gas to heat it and then hit it with freezer spray to shock and break the corrosion. 

If you've got access to air, use an bodyshop impact chisel to batter it out from the side the nut is fitted. It impacts at a much higher frequency than an impact gun and should free it. 

Any time I've replaced these, I've always greased them with aluminium grease and never then had a problem removing them. 

4 hours ago, Remodot said:

Found it, under the plastic panel by the oil and water fillers. I'm guessing sitting vertical is in bleed mode while sitting flat on either side is closed?

Thanks

 

Correct

24 minutes ago, Remodot said:

Removed water pump, thermostat housing and thermostat, Serpentine belt tensioner and pulley. Just waiting delivery if new parts. Anyone have a picture of the coolant bleed vent position on a 987.1 2006 S? I think I must be starting straight at it but can't see it!!

The earlier ones have the velvet right next to the coolant filler cap and engine oil filler cap. Only thing is it hides below a plastic cover which you can only remove after taking off the oil and coolant caps. 

On the later cars the bleed valve is under the top cover of the engine bay.

If it's seized, you may need something like this... 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F352310321923

Google 

Porsche 98135518904

And look at images. It'll bring up a diagram showing all the brake lines etc. 

By the way, my above post may not be accurate as I don't have the exact year etc of your car.

I'm sure this driveshaft has an o-ring on the end. 

... Update. 

Scrub that. PET2 appears to show it having a snap ring on the end (part number 9G1 332 820 00).

However, it also appears that where the driveshaft goes into, there's a small removable solid ''housing neck'' (part number 9G1 321 059 00) this is removable by removal of 5 torx bolts. This is to allow the replacement of the rubber driveshaft oil seal ( 9G1 332 804 01).

In summary then, it would appear then that if the snap ring has been ripped off you'll be able to remove the cover and get it out. I'd replace the shaft oil seal whilst you're there. 

Shaft oil seal - £11.35

Snap ring - £1.34

'' Drive flange long''  - £941.53!!!