mvw

9 hours ago, jcbaldock said:

Cam deviation was well within spec, but can't recall the figures.  The only symptom was a really lumpy idle that smoothed out with higher revs and there was no CEL. Diagnostics pointed to the Bank 2 solenoid - it turned out that was working fine, but the actuator was toast which is less common apparently.  When you buy the actuator, it includes the solenoid too as part of the kit.  We did the chain guides while everything was apart - I suspect the Bank 1 guides will need doing at some point too as they were pretty worn (currently 80K miles.)

Thanks for this, interesting that it didn't throw a CEL.  I think if I'm going to keep mine, I'm going to need the same doing.  The specialist thinks my actuator is sticking, the Cam deviation returns to spec when reset, but then drifts out slowly.  I also get a rattle on warm startup and now at low rpm so suspect the chain guides also need replacing (just had two of the tensioners replaced which if anything made the rattle worse).  At 180k miles, I'm not sure it's worth the expense.  Still drives beautifully though, so a bit of head scratching needed.

23 hours ago, jcbaldock said:

I had a water pump fail quite spectacularly early on, but that was a simple replacement and was planning to change preventatively anyway. Recently had a variocam actuator fail, which was the biggest unexpected bill it's thrown me. Aside from that, just normal wear and tear on suspension components etc. It gets over-maintained to keep everything in good order. I've done over 15k hugely fun miles in it, mostly to/from/around tracks - so I can't complain really!

Can I ask what symptoms did you have when the variocam actuator failed please?  Do you know what your cam deviation was before it failed?

Thanks

8 minutes ago, Jonttt said:

One of my best mates bought a 997.1 a few years ago, I had no idea until after he bought it. His ambition had always to own a Porsche, it was lovely. However once he found out about the potential engine issues it ruined the experience for him (I did not tell him).....he took out a Harlech plan etc.......but after 6 months he sold the car, he just could not live with the constant fear of the engine going pop.......I get criticised every time I tell that story but the moral is not if the engine will go pop, it is simply the worry that it may. He is OCD and simply could not live with the thought the car was “not right”. It ruined the Porsche experience for him forever. So if a) you need 4 seats, b) you want to scratch the 911 itch, c) you go into it eyes wide open and can just enjoy the car for what it is, then go for the 997.1, great cars ...........but ........... the difference between the gen 2 997/987 and gen 1 is massive, its more than just a facelift and personally even if it was 50:50 911 v boxster I would go .2 over .1 as the deciding factor every day of the week. If you don’t need a) or b) above then the boxster is simply the better buy to me as a drivers car in any case.

I appreciate you taking the time to give your thoughts and I don't want to derail your thread.  I don't need 4 seats, but I would use the car even more if I had them.  I've previously owned a 964 so I've scratched the 911 itch.  I agree that for me, the Boxster is a better car to drive and it's also much better value.  I could live with the engine worries, but even if the 997.1 was rock solid I'm still swaying towards a 987.2.  I think what will probably happen is I'll go 987.2 for a couple of years and then think about 997.2.  By which point my kids will be too big for the +2 seats anyway!!  Anyway, gonna spend a few quid on the 986 tomorrow to see if I can get it to a place where I'm happy to pass it on to someone else and will go from there.

Thanks for the advice, it's much appreciated.

13 hours ago, khushy said:

Great looking car

 

i have owned 3 x Z3 M’s (1 x S50 and 2 x S54’s) and travelled over 170,000 miles in them - EPIC fun indeed. 

Had my Spyder since 2011 and 700 miles ..... now just ticked over 118,000 miles and still tight n fast as hell!

 

 

@khushy, love that you are driving the Spyder, I salute you sir!

@Jonttt, great car and great thread.  I'm toying with the idea of a 997.1 (3.6) or a 987.2.  This is edging me towards the Boxster.

Great work @ATM.  Following with interest and super impressed with your work so far!

Replaced another broken brake pad wear sensor.  On the plus side, I got this one first time!  Realised that the light came on when the o/s wheels hit a bump, tried the front wheel first as it's the easiest wheel to put back on (lighter than the rear) and bingo found it first go.  Having replaced god knows how many of these in my ownership I must be learning.  At some point I may even tie them up out the way, which is something I thought about doing 70k miles ago! 

6 hours ago, spyderman8 said:

Pushed the old girl a bit to and from Silverstone, still not convinced my new Michelins PS4s have been the right decision. Maybe I'd just got to used to Pirellis?

How many miles have you done in them? I found that switching to the ps2 and now PS4 that they took a few miles to bed in.  I crapped myself when I put the ps4s on thinking they were much worse than the ps2, but absolutely love them now.

24 minutes ago, Patt said:

Never had and clatter, although the temporary locking wire was very secure.

hmm, will take another look to see if I can secure them properly

On 5/5/2017 at 5:07 PM, witko999 said:

I bought a PSE switch to go on the RH side of the radio.  I bought P/N 996.613.987.10 A05 which should have been correct according to the tech information bulletin I have, but actually it would've had to be installed upside down to 'match' the orientation of the blank switches I have (I solved this by turning my blanks over).  I think the 'correct' number for the switch RH side of the radio is 996.613.988.10 A05.

I then unscrewed the fuse box and relay box behind it in the drivers footwell, and wired the switch with the 4 required wires as per the attached diagram.  All I needed was the wire, 4 female spade connectors to attach to the switch, 1 thin female spade connector to go to BS 5/2, and 2 'clip in' type female spade connectors to go into the PSE relay socket.  The connection to fuse B10 was done by stripping the wire insulation and piggy backing (soldering) the wire already attached to B10.

Also required is PSE relay 996.618.980.03, which is £106ish from the OPC (slightly cheaper from german ebay).  My car had the '02' version which is not compatible with the switch.  The switch was about £35.

The rest of the PSE electronics were already fitted to my car at the same time as the PSE.

Oh and I also desoldered one of the diodes inside the new PSE relay.  This stops the PSE from automatically going into quiet mode at certain speeds.  It's now controlled only by the switch.

I can give more detailed info if you want.  It's actually pretty easy if you know exactly what to do.

 

Thanks very much for taking the time to post this.  I'm not sure I'm skilled enough to add the switch, but what you have convinced me to do is cut the diode in my relay.  As the biggest pain with mine is it closing the valves at the very speed you are most likely to hear it!  I think this will be a good and easy mod for me.

On 5/5/2017 at 2:49 PM, Patt said:

Best I take a picture to try to explain.

Use wire to determine which way is open (it's not always the same way per system ) and clamp the actuator bar on the solenoid in place.

Then replace wire with a weld - anyone that can weld can do the job, Revolution did mine as I had a faulty solenoid and this was the cheapest option...peanuts in cost and I've loved it for 5 years now. It's still not intrusively load  - even the neighbours haven't said anything.

I'll try to remember to dive underneath and snap a picture for you

Patt, I took a look at this over the weekend and I think I understand what you mean.  I didn't realise the thing that closes the valve was actually called a solenoid.  A while back I tried cable tying mine open, but what I found is that the valves really clattered on startup.  Is that something you have experienced or is it that the cable tie has some give allowing the values to still try and close? 

2 minutes ago, Patt said:

Best I take a picture to try to explain.

Use wire to determine which way is open (it's not always the same way per system ) and clamp the actuator bar on the solenoid in place.

Then replace wire with a weld - anyone that can weld can do the job, Revolution did mine as I had a faulty solenoid and this was the cheapest option...peanuts in cost and I've loved it for 5 years now. It's still not intrusively load  - even the neighbours haven't said anything.

I'll try to remember to dive underneath and snap a picture for you

Nice one, thanks.

2 minutes ago, Patt said:

You can wire or weld the solenoids permanently open - a cheap option that I personally love

 

Hi Patt, how do you wire them open?  Also, how much did it cost to get yours welded?  Is it something an indy can do or would I need an exhaust specialist?  I'm such an idiot, I should have got them welded open when I had Gert fix the loose baffles!

4 hours ago, witko999 said:

I bought a PSE dash switch and wired it in to control my exhaust valves manually.  After finding it didn't work, I discovered that I also needed a newer model PSE relay (at disappointing cost).  It all works nicely now though.

Tell us more, did you do a thread on it?  Interested in doing this myself, but thought the kits were hard to get hold of an now too expensive.

It's always the last bl**dy sensor!  LOL