TV8

@phazed sounds a bit more technical than taking the second spring off the throttle..

I went from a 987 (and a TVR) to a 996. I didn’t expect to keep it for very long but that was nearly 4 years ago. I do like the 996 but every spring I find myself looking at Boxsters again. Looked at a 986 a couple of weekends ago but there was some damaged amourfend type stuff all over the front and  I decided to leave it. 

Personally, given how pleased you are with your 986, do whatever you can to run them in parallel to avoid getting rid a car you like for something you are not sure about. Good luck

7 minutes ago, EXY said:

CC have a reputation for badgering the seller to lower reserves.

I wonder if they have a no sell fee?

I have only recently discovered bangers and cash and they seem to set reserves to sell. Proof, at least on the early series, that there were a few trade buyers. Not sure I would use them for some of the higher valued cars that they have for auction.

3 minutes ago, EXY said:

What if it's an auction with a reserve, surely that sets what someone thinks their vehicle is worth?

This one sold, so I assume it was above reserve?

Buyer circumstances can often affect prices - some people need to release funds, think the car is about to go wrong or know of a hidden problem, realise they should sell but happy to have it sit there for months.

Personally, I hate buying/selling cars now. Used to enjoy it but no more. 

For me, if it’s an auction, then it’s the most accurate price? What someone is actually prepared to pay vs what someone thinks their vehicle is worth.  
 

I have found running threads useful and have one for the 996. Some buyers do appear to want more though. I always forget to get my service book stamped and I was asked to get the book updated by someone who wanted to buy the car. I did this and then they checked the total history and found a gap started in 2011 of about 10k miles. Their sole intention of this action was to justify a lower offer price. 
 

Did you fit the extra bits like Cannes inside the headlight unit or extend outside the case? I mounted on the outside as I think they get hot with the HID versions but it was more work and a reasonable size hole in the cover to do this. 

5 hours ago, ½cwt said:

and pretty much any other thing.

A good brand OAT coolant mixed in the correct ratio will be satisfactory. Porsche don't make the coolant just like they don't make the brake fluid, engine oil or petrol....

I think the Porsche stuff is pre mixed and the 911 takes a lot of it! Can’t remember what I put in, whatever Matt at type911 recommended mixed with distilled water. Flushed 1st obviously. 
Changed it when the water pump developed the leaking feature as suggest above 👍

Get a quote from Porsche for the new coolant required and be sure to be sitting down when you make the call. 

9 hours ago, phazed said:

Just squeezed 120mph down the back straight. 

Even though the car went well and handling was ace, Snetterton seems too large a track for it, (meagre 300 horses pushing 1.35 tonnes). Cadwell is far better and more enjoyable.

Surprised at that. I was expecting a bit more

10 hours ago, phazed said:

Snetterton on Saturday...

Assuming it’s the 300, I would be interested what speed the Boxster will pull down the back straight. Much safer straight to brake late than the one going past the pits! 
 

Enjoy!

54 minutes ago, the baron said:

It’s certainly frustrating, I’ve got my battery on charge so will see if that helps if it does then the chances are it will be the battery.

im going to the NEC classic car show and I’m looking to buy an icarsoft V2.0 POR so hoping that will help with the diagnosis of this and future issues

Good luck. That is the code reader I have and using that particular tool on the 996/986 it seems to have functionality than on later cars but does all I need.  

16 hours ago, the baron said:

It turns out not to be the abs sensor, I’ve now checked all 4 sensors and replaced the brake sensor above the brake pedal and I’m still getting the abs and psm warning light come up after driving for a few mins. 
 

Any other ideas on hints I could check?

Took me a couple of years to sort this out and in my case it was lack of volts in an older battery that had gone flat a couple of times. If I kept the car on trickle charger or used it regularly, no problem. There were a couple of error codes linked to steering angle sensor code that caused lots of head scratching but changing the battery appears to have sorted it. There is a lot of info on this on 911uk. There might be on here but when it first started happening, I couldn’t find a lot. 
good luck. You are welcome to connect up to my code tester if you are near Bromley and there are a couple of others who offered to help as well. 

4 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

They aren’t  

To correct my original post, add the words “for sale” in that sentence. 

A private sale with the Porsche warranty would be a good thing. Why are the good cars always black! 

Good peddling Peter. Was Qbee there?

I bought my continental from continental as bergville website was not working and then bought an adapter from a local provider which suffered with interference and which I could not get rid of.

Finally, I bought an adapter from Bergville and frankly, did not find him that helpful considering I spent USD$77 for a simple wiring loom and some heat shrink. As I did not buy the head unit from him, he wanted €100 per hour, 30 minutes invoiced in advance when I had a couple of questions. He told me he was to busy with 20-100 installation questions per week, so a good business.

Take as you find obviously.

10 hours ago, Ringmaster999 said:

Gave my insurance a ring all ok. No need for a Green card as it mentions cover for Europe in the schedule which of course I’ll have a copy of. 
Breakdown cover sorted and once the country’s were mentioned they said I’d need cover for Zone 1. So obviously they have zones based on the countries your  visiting 👍

Glad you are sorted and enjoy your travels

Have a great trip.
I have not taken a car abroad since Brexit and do wonder if insurance has changed. Around the time we left Europe, I can remember a policy I had suggesting a change for mainland Europe, breaking it down into zones. Might be worth checking in advance. 

1 hour ago, Scubaregs said:

Then ask them why your stop/start is not working and tell them to repair it under warranty.

It had to happen at some point. I agree with this man!

6 hours ago, Davey P said:

Mine showed 12.1V with the ignition off and the car cold, then it went up to 14.6V with the engine running, so I guess that means the battery is fine after all - woohoo! 

The alternator is definitely good output but Batteries can struggle to hold onto volts as they get older in my experience. I had a volts related problem on the 996 that was not there when the car was used regularly and/or kept on a trickle charger. I changed the battery and touch wood, it’s fine now. I bought it in Costco and the man there told me to check the date on the battery as they appear to be like tyres - can be sat on the shelf for a while! 

Not sure if you or anyone you know is a Costco member but they often do good deals on Michelin and, I think Bridgestone. Not the quickest fitters at least at my local branch but the tyres I have had from there have always been a few weeks old based on the date stamp. 

12 hours ago, ½cwt said:

No, you have a dual row, 66Y prefix is a 2000 engine, 661 is a 2001 engine. so you are OK, or much lower risk at least.

Thank you, I expect that one day that info will be used with a potential buyer! 

3 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

For the 996 Carrera, dual row bearing was up to engine number 661 14164, smaller single row bearing thereafter and as the 997 didn't come in until 2006, I suspect all 997s have the larger single row bearing that can't easily be changed.

Looks like single row for me with engine number 66Y17040