Buzzlt

Let myself in for that one didn’t I!

So mine has the battery disconnected and I tried it with my booster pack on the door hinge bracket and the pull out tab. It works fine on both the sill switch and the key fob. Worth checking that you are getting a good contact on the pull out part and the door hinge as some of those plastic jump leads only have a connection in one side of the crocodile.

Failing that worth a mention that one of my keys stopped working as I had not used it for a long time. There is a way to reset the key but you would need a decent battery. The pull out tab only seams to provide power for the frunk release and nothing much else.

It also powers the key release in the steering column and neither the key or the sill button work with the key in the ignition.

Still hope you don’t need to look for the wire pull. I remember seeing it once but can’t recall where.

Dunno what you don’t understand. If you supply a small amount of current to the fuse box it should be enough to pop the frunk. It’s all in the handbook. If you don’t have it it is easily downloaded or at the top of the Facebook 987 page. Way easier than finding the pull wire. Sorry it I sound condescending but it’s hard being a Sparky sometimes.

New boots for the front PS5’s as they were an absolute bargin from black circles in the Black Friday sale. It might actually stop now after finally finishing the brake upgrades which ended up with the GT3 master cylinder, new stainless brake nipples, Goodrich braided hoses and a bit of clean up. 
 

I can report that the pedal is much firmer with virtually no travel, which I like. However as others have said a bit harder to push.

Not the best weather for more testing but I already think I need better pads as it hasn’t added the sharpness I was hoping for. Which I know you can get with better pads.

Well after a bit more digging I remember that I did see the one for sale at the time I was looking with the 08 at the end and that is what is listed in the PET as a replacement part. Also on design 911 for several models. Therefore I guess they must be re-codeable but I know there is no way of doing this with Durametric. I would be careful about getting a model with a lower number at the end as doesn’t the 987.2 have Led rear lights ? This would I guess make earlier models throw a wobbly!

I have mentioned in here before that I did phone Porsche in Guildford at one point just with the part number from my original box and they quoted £200 and something. Looks like they have gone uk a bit though. In hindsight at the time I should have just bought a new one. OPC might be worth a try maybe Guildford had 10 on a shelf.

Sorry can’t remember. Maybe it was the original listing on #bay where I bought it from. I think it is also in the PET for the cayman if memory serves. Probably not ! Either way I used it all winter and the only difference in the Durametric was the sunroof vs top and the associated switches. Probably common to half the VW group as most of the rest of the configuration / relays are for rear lights.

Sorry if this post appears twice due to counting traffic lights, sidewalks and buses.

Interesting topic have been there and done that so to speak except on a 987.1

 These were the two boxes I had. Mistakenly bought one for a 911 as got the last two digits wrong. So beware not just a revision. Probably won’t be the right number for yours. Please let us know how you get on out of curiosity as I had no problems swapping them over. I too have Durametric but think just disconnecting the battery for swapping out is all that was needed. I think the number dictatates the firmware but that is only a hunch. The same box is also used in for example the back of a VW Touareg.

With the 911 version the only difference on the Durametric was that the sunroof did not work and I actually sold it to a Cayman owner who may or may not have had one. Same part number obviously. Please don’t ask which was which as it was a while ago.

I still can’t work out the boot light a multimeter shows 12v on both sides of the bulb but somehow still works with my valvetronic exhaust wired into it !

5 hours ago, BBB said:

Was it a straight swap @Buzzlt? I have mine sat on the bench ready for fitting.

Yep it was really easy. But don’t listen to me there we actually 8 screws in the plastic surround !

I was worried about fitting it too but one of the easiest jobs I have done. I didn’t want to make a mess so the hardest part was waiting half an hour for the brake fluid to dribble out of the resovoir into my pot. Couple of old t shirts underneath are now in the bin. The resovoir has barbs and was a bit of yank to wriggle off then re distribute the original fitting grease before putting back.

I have yet to bleed the brakes (fit new nipples after a soak in Penetrant) and report on performance in a couple of weeks.

Also got the AOS off as well. This was much easier than shown on the you tube videos. Didn’t know there were different sorts so have to search for a 996.107.826.01 by the look of it. As it took a bit of yanking and sheared a bolt.

Insured if from the beginning of next month for £189 so now I need to get on with the jobs.

Fitted the new GT3 brake master cylinder- 6 Phillips, 2 x13 mm brake pipes and a 22 mm socket were all that were needed but now I need to bleed the brakes. Looks like the nipples are M10 x1.0 but hard to see through the rust!

Can anybody recommend some replacements? think I will change all 8

Also a new AOS air oil separator which I will need before the end of the month for the MOT as it’s a bit smoky.

10 hours ago, iborguk said:

@phazed Assuming we're talking about a 987 a Rear Control Unit cost new is about £370 before any OPC discount.  Again I think it will need to be coded to the car with PIWIS.

Design911 reference to the part

https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod7888/Control-Unit-Rear-Spoiler-Porsche-Boxster---Cayman---997/

WM 578919 - PIWIS process to encode the rear control unit (also known as a rear convenience module) - refers to a 987.2(2012) car model but it's the same process on the 987.1's...instigate a vehicle handover.

https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63/59c94364-53aa-415d-8240-3b141864a53e_578919_Removing_and_installing_control_...(Body_Control_Module).pdf

Blimey they have gone up a bit in price. Again as I said though worth a call directly to Porsche with the part number off your box. I tried 3 different ones and all worked to a degree (water damage dependant) without coding in. If the software in the box is programmable then I think I found they use the same box (RCU) in the back of a VW Touareg !

2 hours ago, phazed said:

Was working on a friends 3.2 S tip. Turns out that all the problems relating to roof, airbag light and rear spoiler are down to the ECU under the seat, which got wet and hasn’t recovered fully!

 

Anyone got a spare?

Had the same problem. Spent ages chasing one down on eBay. Then found out they are only about £200 from the main dealer. Wish I had bought a new one. It was a couple of years ago. FYI they are the same unit on most of the Porsche range and VW’s ! I think they are hard coded so the part number for the replacement has to be exactly the same. I had one for a 911/ Cayman at one point and opening and closing the sunroof does not lower the roof using the Durametric software. Everything else worked perfectly. A new one should be plug and play so no need for programming software.

9 hours ago, Philc said:

Thats another angle

From my experience they are pressed in and there is one very small tack of weld which is easily broken. They pressed out really easily in a vice. Removing the manifolds to do this was a worse option as you may have read all the bolts tend to sheer off in the heads. I would try to get them out in place if you can. Bear in mind though that the Lamda sensors do not respond well to a good bashing. Good Luck!

Blimey mine has one fitted. Always thought it was standard! (Front of the drivers seat).

Yep have the whole rear exhaust I could do with shifting. About as far down south as you can get though !

3 hours ago, Deano37 said:

At last I got my Designtec switched exhaust working!

Even since fitting the exhaust I have never been able to get it to switch (stuck in loud mode), so decide to try and find out why.

After taking the plenum and associated parts of, i traced the vacuum pipes and the pickup from the vacuum pump hose had a snapped pipe fitting. Manufactured a repair and it now works a treat!  

Also found that the AOS had not been seated correctly since i replaced it a few months ago, bottom pipe had not pushed into the hose correctly, hoping that is the culprit for my puff of blue smoke sometimes on 1st engine start.

 

What vacuum pump. Did they nick my design based on previous posts ? 

My spare Cayman wheels are still in the Classified I think. The backs are mint !

Thanks guys will check it out tomorrow. Don’t think I wanna risk nearly fainting on the floor of the OPC again but what has to be done…… £700 fitted at least means maybe not too bad!

4 minutes ago, Mattman42 said:

I looked and decided to give it to someone who was less likely to feck it up. Cost me about £700 all in I think (for reference)

Well not today, maybe tomorrow....coolant puddle under front n\s  So guess it's the front coolant pipes next. Please could somebody point me to a link for or the part numbers. It's too hot to go through the whole PET. The front to back pipes are done so just like my for the front ones now. I know some of you have done them so any tips on where to get a good deal on them?

On 7/8/2021 at 10:56 PM, ½cwt said:

The eccentric bolts should have been about £9 each and washers are reusable, so are nuts it you are really being tight and need to save a few pennies.

Yep slightly cheaper than d911 from the OPC but seriously £84.?? For four nuts bolts and washers that are supposed to be stretch so disposable. That’s for the coffin arm ones too.

On the plus side I noticed the company I work for now make(did) the driveshafts so maybe I can get some staff discount.

Another plus was that in testing on the way to work today my 3.2S with a few minimal mods is still quicker than a 2020 S4 Audi. In a straight line anyway 🙂  maybe not off the blocks but we both gave it a thumbs up before we parted 😂

Fitted these. So I can finally get the rear toe in spec. Also new eccentric nuts bolts and washers (even though I don’t need them now). Nearly passed out at Portsmouth OPC yesterday when they came back with the quote for 4 nuts, bolts and washers !

https://flic.kr/p/2m9ndBi

Fitted these as well. Bargain!

https://flic.kr/p/2m9ndBi

1 minute ago, Buzzlt said:

Always leave mine doors locked bonnet open and battery disconnected. In a safe area. No problems so far other than the usual.PSM failure message and xlcycking the windows.

Ok so yes the cat jumped on my lap but how can cycling be predicted to that. Better watch the tour after the GP !

2 minutes ago, Finbox said:

I just checked and the car is locked with the bonnet slightly open, I will leave it like that. In theory now anyone could open the bonnet, but this is a well monitored private garage so I'm sure it will be fine. If the battery is dead when I come back, I can jump the battery. 

Thanks again for your help Paul.

Always leave mine doors locked bonnet open and battery disconnected. In a safe area. No problems so far other than the usual.PSM failure message and xlcycking the windows.

19 hours ago, Tony Daniel said:

I have adjustable toe links and my camber still does not come in to recommended figures, you need adjustable coffin arms. Mine is 30mm lower though, 10mm should be no problem

We’ll I can get the camber in spec but then the toe is so far out the PSM bugs out. I managed to move both the tuning forks forwards a couple of mm on each side and this has helped a bit. There is a lot of adjustment available but the best I can get is an overall figure of about 10mm toe in. Wherever I set the camber. I’m going to buy some new bolts but they do move OK.

Where/ what toe arms did you get?

There are some on eBay from gravity but unclear if that’s each or for a pair. Now wondering if the rubbers in the cheap coffin arms I replaced 3 or so years ago and about 20k were too cheap !

At least it’s getting a good wash today without my help. The next project is re-proofing the roof. Think I might try something other than Autoglym for a change.

Not today but at the weekend I was trying to sort out the rear alignment. Just can’t get it anywhere within tolerance after replacing the tuning forks with Spyder ones. I have the H&R lowering springs but only 10mm and it used to get within spec. I’m wondering if after a couple or three years it has dropped a bit more. So I was looking at adjustable rear toe links. Anyone had any experience of these at a reasonable price before I take it somewhere else to try and get an alignment done ?

This topic did start with tuning forks but happy with any other pointers on the subject….. maybe PM me so as not to take over the otherwise interesting thread !