Freeman

7 hours ago, DaveEFI said:

So I think it safe to say  the way an aircraft engine is operated is very different to a car

Correct.

7 hours ago, DaveEFI said:

Assuming you drove your car 1 hour a day, 2000 hours equates to about 5 years. Don't think many would be happy having to fit a new engine every 5 years of moderate car use.

Busy flying schools/clubs have to remove the engines every 6-7 years and send them to be o/h.

24 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Brake pedal switch or throttle position sensor ?

 

If correct I would expect to see a drop of RPM and hear the engine slowing down, these do not happen.

10 hours ago, DaveEFI said:

And a low use car is covered in the service schedule by requiring a yearly oil change regardless of mileage.

Didn't know that. I think that most cars are low utility, mine is. Most aircraft are also low utility and spend most of their life on the ground and suffer of internal corrosion, add to it the lead in the fuel that finds its way into the oil and the oil galleries.

10 hours ago, DaveEFI said:

But where is the evidence it will extend your Boxster engine life?

Can't help with this one.

8 hours ago, McDonald said:

and implied that engine lives are extended by more frequent oil & filter changes.

Just for fairness. I don't claim that oil change is the only reason for increased life. There can be other reasons too, such as:  How the engine is being operated, temp's, frequency of flights, length of each flight and lots of luck.

Driving at speed (sometime did happen after a red light) the car stops pulling. RPM remain steady i.e doesn't drop, engine sound remains the same but it feels as someone hit the brakes. If cruise control is engage then the car disengages it. Any idea?

2 minutes ago, McDonald said:

Our lives depend on aircraft engines, so no quibble there. Extra life on your car engine is financially attractive too.

Same principal.

I could remove the engine at 2000h and send it to be O/H yet made the decision to continue using and monitoring it.

59 minutes ago, DaveEFI said:

Thing that puzzles me is why restrict it to the engine oil? Should you also change all other lubricants twice as often? And brake fluid? Coolant? New battery every couple of years too? And so on.

The oil is not just a lubricator, it is also part of the cooling and cleansing system of the engine. Regardless of the filter the oil carries large number of microscopic contaminants such as water, metal, carbon, acids etc. The only way to remove them is by an oil change. For me, oil and filter change are cheap maintenance, especially as I don't use the car very often. 

In my aircraft I have also changed oil and filter twice as often which helped to increase the engine life from 2000h to 2740h, then it started to eat itself.

On 7/26/2021 at 10:33 AM, ½cwt said:

Just done second oil change service on company car at 40k miles and 2yrs 2 months old, in the two drain intervals so far it has only required 500ml of top up total.

This is the best way to keep an engine in a good condition...use it often and for long periods.

On 7/26/2021 at 10:18 AM, DaveEFI said:

I'm old enough to remember 3000 mile oil changes being the norm. If you decide you know better than the car maker, where exactly do you draw the line? And do you have solid proof changing oil early benefits engine life?

You could, of course, have the oil analysed at both one and two years old. To check its actual condition.

It is not just the oil condition. Running the engine produces water, it is one of the by products of combustion. Some of it finds it way into the oil. If you don't drive the car for long enough and reach temp to evaporate it the water that stays behind and mixes with the small amount of Sulphur remains in the oil the water will produce a mild sulphuric acid. The acid and water will attack the steel components and over time will damage them. For these reasons short in-town rides are the worst for an engine as large quantities of water remain mixed with the oil. 

Strange, I have just talked with the Mrs. about it few days ago. She would like to have an R8, after thinking my answer was that I would have love to have CGT but that it makes no sense. Instead, the 987.1-S will be handed to the garage with the instructions of making it as good as new. The logic? I just enjoy this car as I have never enjoyed any other car before it and...will a car costing 80 times more will make me 20 times happier? Guess not.

Yes, it is a keeper, have it for 3.5 years now and enjoy it every second, never had so much fun driving a car. It is a weekend and holiday car, I even ask the wife if she wants me to drive her to the 'next door's' 😀

For me the cost is not the all important thing, I want to have an agreed value so can buy another if have an accident. Compare the market etc. companies will pay you market value which is several thousands less compare to what you will have to pay for a replacement.  

Hello Carlie

Thanks for your reply. I have renewed already and think that it might be too late for this year, in any case will PM you.

Gave up on A Plan.

Tried to insure my home, had a great service from my local office but she was bitten big time by Aviva. Then tried to insure the car, provided all information and was quoted ~£750 while my current insurer charges £440, when I mentioned it I was told that they refused to provide the classic cover as the car is too new (2005).

Go figure.

There is a plug/stud that holds the wiring loom, I can't remember whether it connects to the cover or not. To realise it you have to press on the sides (they pop out to lock in position) then push it out.

I don't know what connector you mean. Once I removed the cover I have attached the C.C stalk to its position, connected the cable and used some 3 letters word when I have tried to re-attach the new lower cover.

18 minutes ago, red rocket said:

I noticed that but couldn't figure out what if anything was attached. How did you remove the connector? I'm going to have to modify the cover so need to remove it completely.

I guess that is easier to buy one from your OPC, cost ~ £50.

All is fitted. Really an easy job, the stirring lower plastic cover was a real pain to remove and then refit. As I didn't have the right Torx tools had to pop to my old garage and borrow. Total cost for the tools...X4 ice creams 

18 hours ago, Richard Hamilton said:

No problem.  Drop me a PM when you are ready, and we'll work it out. 

OK, thank you.

17 hours ago, Richard Hamilton said:

I would be happy to code it for you. Depending on where you are in Herts, I might not be too far away. 

Richard

Thank you very much for your kind offer. I live not too far from Hatfield so Maidenhead is not the end of the world. Porsche should deliver the parts this week, then the car goes for a major service and MOT. This means that the earliest I can come is Thursday 3/5 (if the car is back). If it doesn't work out then the next Sat. that I have available is 2/6. Sorry, can't do Bank Holidays as I promised the Mrs. that I will be hers (as long as the mistress comes with us ).

Dave

The other switches are Left hand, you need a Right Hand. The switch that you need can be found on the Cayman and I think Panamera but am not sure. Search by the part number.

Bravestarr and endgc.

I think that I am nearly qualified to answer the questions.

There are 2 routes that you can follow.

1. Ask indi or a POC to install 

2. Source used parts and install.

If you choose route 1 then the price you pay can be anything (seeing other people posts, I didn't research) between £400-£550.

If you choose route 2 is lots down to luck and patience, this is the route I took. (Have a look at the attachment below).

During the last 3 months (since buying the car) I have search all possible forums for information reading most posts going back to 2016 so I can have an idea of prices, sources, who can be trusted etc. Eventually, I found on Ebay a used switch for £98. The wiring and the screws I bought from Porsche, wiring is £32 and 18p for each screw. Then the lower plastic cover needs to be modified. If you have a Dermill it is an easy job, I don't, so decided that for £44 I can afford a new cover, also from Porsche. So say that the parts cost me ~ £160. To program the unit should cost £50 - £80. So the total cost to me will be no more then £250.

C.C parts.doc

Thank you guys, most helpful.

If I may, I would like to ask a question that was asked many times before.

I want to add the cruise control to the car. I have sourced the switch and the screws and the short wire are also not an issue, however I am confused on one point.

Is there a need to remove the instrument cluster?

An indi sais that it has to be removed while Pelican says:

"For Boxsters from 2005-08, the installation is much easier. You need to purchase a cruise control switch (PN: 997-613-261-00), a small wiring harness (PN: 997-622-674-00), a new lower steering column cover (PN: 997-552-475-03), and a few Torx screws to secure the new switch (PN: N-909-068-01). There is a factory retro-fit kit available that includes all of these parts and instructions (PN: 997-044-903-00), but you can save money by simply buying the parts separately and looking at the 101Projects.com website for a copy of the installation instructions. Simply remove the bottom cover, install the new switch and harness, plug the harness into the connector on the switch above it, and then install the new lower cover. The cruise control function then needs to be turned on by a Porsche dealer or independent shop with a PIWIS programming tool. The whole process should take about 30 minutes: very simple."

So who is right?

Thanks