pacificjuha

Changed the clutch slave cylinder. Surprisingly easy DYI job.

On normal driving I did not notice anything wrong on the old one, but at the track with fast gear changes and plenty of those in short time period the clutch pedal stayed in the floor for a 1-2 seconds couple of times per lap.

Now the clutch works very nice with much improved precision compared to the original clutch slave cylinder.

Week from now is the next track day to really test this one out.

Old removed part:

New part:

Replaced the front antirollbar droplinks, adjusted the front camber plates further to get -2,25 camber both sides at the front.

After these went for a 1,5 hours drive on sunny evening at the twisties - handling is just fabulous now and the car turns immediately to the corner as I turn the wheel regardless of the speed 😇😎

Track day planned for mid of Septeber for a better test.

The 5 speed oil fill is 11mm below the fill plug hole and can be measured with for example small allen key.

3 hours ago, skullandbiscuits said:

Made the rookie error and booked it in for a fuel filter replacement, google has just told me 01 cars and upwards are built into the tank.

I have 2001 2.7 Boxster and it has external fuel filter at the midle of the car under the floor. Did change that last winter projects.

Done yesterday:

Changed the roof motor, transmissions and cables. Went right at first try and did'n need to tinker with alignment after the install

Issue was one cable giving up - rest of the parts I did as a preventative maintenance.

First image shows the cable end being done. Second image shows other end of the cable having metal wire coming thru the protective sleeve... 😳

Now the roof operates real well.

Also, yesterday I welded the exhaust pipe next to cat that broke last weekend at the races in massive downpour rain during one 15 min race session. Welding went also well, regardless that this was my first time welding stainless. No more leaking exhaust.

1 hour ago, edc said:

Is it the crack at the weld? I'd be a bit surprised that water on hot exhaust caused a crack. I'd be looking more to the mounting and any movement introduced from gearbox or engine mounts. 

'The crack is right next to the weld. Also my friend's GT4 (2020 model if I remember right) cracked the exhaust flange right nect to the cat. We had massive amount of water on the track yesterday on one race. That is why we currently believe the large amount of water on the very hot exhaust during the 15 min race, to be the issue on both of our exhaust damage cases.

Went racing on Friday and Yesterday on Porsche Racing Club Finland event at alastarocircuit.fi. Friday was a day for practice runs with Time Trial (I run at TT with my Boxster), Club Racing and 992 Cup Cars.
Saturday we had a massive downpour of rain most of the day. Still raced on all classes...
Probably due to the really wet track, the exhaust pipe immediately before the cat cracked on my car (first image).
Will get it welded this week.

Today I also installed new camberplates (EuroCupGT-Pro GT3 Adjustable Front Top Mounts - image borrowed from Porshop.co.uk website, I forgot to take pictures of the installation...) to the front suspension. Will get the alignment re-done also later this week.

To finish off the good Porsche weekend, I washed the car.

Topped up the power steering fluid and checked all drains - getting ready for the upcoming rece weekend.

Took the car for a great spin on the twisties roof down on the sunny weather.

Arrived back to the garage and as I was lifting hood back up, the cable(s) made a nasty sound - kind of like they would be twisted in to peaces. No screeching nor 'broken gears' sounds, but the roof & clamshell barely had power to close. Time for some repairs, so I ordered the updated gears, motor and cables. Should be many more years of well working hood after the parts arrive and I have chance to change those.

Now the weather is real nice, so I'll probaly make the hood working manually unit untill the repalcement parts arrive...

MOT'd the Boxster with no any advisories. The inspection guy mentioned that 'This is on the MOT perspective pretty much like a new car'.

A happy day 😅

12 hours ago, K.I.T.T. said:

Almost feels like it's "trying" to pull the latch open, but doesn't have enough force to do so.

This 'trying' to open is pretty much certain telltale to show that the solenoid is done - especially when weather is warm. I had same issue on my frunk opening solenoid and new part from OPC cured the problem.

8 hours ago, K.I.T.T. said:

Have a bit of an issue with the latch - not releasing electrically. Fine on emergency cable.

It's trying to open electrically, but no bueno. You can hear it.

Was working fine, until I last closed the lid - and it felt like it closed "funny". Lid seems to be sitting a little lower than before, but could be my mind playing tricks.

Just back from hols, and off to the London office tomorrow. Will start taking apart to investigate further later this month.

In the meantime, wondered if anybody who has encoutered similar / had suggestions to get me ahead of the curve?

Sounds like the release solenoid is getting tired. Replaced mine for same reason 2-years ago and frunk has been operating real well after that.

This part is the actual solenoid sitting in the front cornes of the frunk and the 'pigtail' that pulls the latch open. Not expensive part from Porsche - maybe like 75€ and easy to change as DYI.

5 hours ago, Winster said:

I have the same issue but new tuning forks hasn't cured mine.  It's silent for 10 to 15 mins but knocks like a bugger once warmed up.  Baffled by it, especially as tuning forks seem to sort it for others.

Other source for knocks are the sway bar joints. You cant feel them being worn by hand, but as you describe - when warmed up a bit and driven.

I had this issue couple of years back when I started to track the car more. New sensors lasted approx half of the 15 min heat... Then cut the sensor wires to only approx 5cm long and soldered them together per wheel. No more issues at all.

As a disclaimer: I do take the wheels off few times per summer and have made it to a habit on each time to visually check the pad wear.

4 hours ago, fizz said:

Where you based as I'm coming down! 👀 you seem to have the knowledge to solve my issue! 🤣

😁 you'll have a bit longer drive ahead... to Finland 😳😅

There are also welded on heat shields on the downpipes before the cats. Those can also rust loose and usually makse noice only when hot and expanded due to heat. This is very hard to search out since the exhaust has to be very hot...

There is also a chance that some rocks find their way to go between these heatshields and downpipes then rattle there. This is easier to find out with light taps on rubber mallet to these heat shields.

Got a full 4-wheel laser measured alignment done to my Boxter. Did the very maxed out Camber to help out a bit on the track use. Still much to be desired from the maxed out camber figures 😁

Current total per axle camber figures are: Front -0,87* and Rear -2,77*

Next winter the coilovers with addittionally adjustable monoball top plates are on the shopping list...

5 hours ago, map said:

On this day in 2007 I became my 986's keeper - it still gives me a kick whenever I drive it.

OK it's got more go, stop and flow than when it first arrived but the essence of what it was then remains.

And now:

 

Very nice! What is the panel on the dash under the A/C control? Some kind of stereo and data display...?

8 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

Why did you have bumperettes, was it a US import?

Yes, US model. This car was built in Finland, sold as new in San Diego and spent first 11 years there. Then broght back to Finland and has not been driven in winter here - basicly 100% rustfree regardles of the past 300.700km being driven with this 🤩

Removed the ugly usa bumperetees adn my son designed and 3D-printed the covers next to the licence plate. Looks much better now.

Went for a nice drive at the coast - of course top down - on the sunny but cold weather (+6 degrees C) heater on max 😁

On 4/24/2023 at 4:54 PM, RedBarediver said:

That looks awesome.  I'd love to hear it in action if you can upload a clip

Finally had a chance to drive the Boxster this weekend right after doing brake fluid flush with my teenage son - getting ready for the first race of the season in 3 weeks.

Here's the sound clip (it has some drone, so work continues...) :

5 hours ago, RedBarediver said:

That looks awesome.  I'd love to hear it in action if you can upload a clip

Should have a chance to record a clip latest on next weekend.

Westerday my teenage son and I did a sketch on paper and purchased required parts. Today we built a home-made cat-back exhaust. Sound is sooooo much better now. Did not seem to have drone, but sound is similar to the 911 GT3RS (991) - at least we would like to believe so 😇😁

Latest on next weekend, well measure the possible change on the power to previous reading from a month ago.

Same time the Boxster lost a large chunk of weight.

The new set is built a way that if we want to change these cat-back sets back-and-forth, it is very fast to do.

Original:

This is what we made:

Check in here with needed info from your car and most likely you'll get help (if you have the Becker cdr-220 radio):

http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/45577-becker-cdr-220-radio-code.html

Went for a nice sunny Eastern Holiday drive.

Did get my 2001 Boxster 2.7 to respectable age by distance travelled:

This car works absolutely fantastic and has no rust at all.😎