pacificjuha

21 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Where is this located and how easy is it to get at?  Tempted to get a look at mine and clean it if necessary to maybe extend its life.

It's at the passenger side at the end of the dashpanel behind 'perforated' round hatch. The hatch is easy to take off with interior parts removel plastic tools (not to scratch the surroinding dash). After taking the round hatch out, you'll have a clear view of the tempereature sensor sensing sniffer. Then you'll be able to make a deciaion if you need to remove the actual sensor unit for clean up.

When / if cleanign the sensor, remember that in a sensor there is a rotainting fan that pulls air from the cabin - this you do not want to disturb on imbalance.

Repalced the cabin temerature sensor couple of days ago. Which was an easy thing to do. Now the automatic climate control actually keeps the temperature very nicely as dialed in 😎

Before the sensor change if I wanted warm air at all, the request had to be dialed on 29,5 celsius or 'Hi' -setting.

Old part that I took out looked fine, except being very dusty / dirty. I plan on cleaning this pictured old part with something, maybe MAF sensor cleaner, and testing if the reason for not working properly was the 'dustinsulation' on the sensor. This would be good for anybody to check out before purchasing a new/used and expensive sensor.

I have a 2001 and it does have the roofliner on the soft top. Facelift came a bit later - 2003?

I have managed to keep the alarm quiet by following these steps:

- turn key to position 1 and remove the battery's negative cable AND take out the front bonnet strike 'plate' (2 bolts)

- turn the key back to 'off' position and take out the key from lock (I have no private garage...)

- do the work needed

- intall the key and turn it to position 1

- connect the battery negative cable

- turn the key back to off position

- install the fron bonnet stiker 'plate'

So far the alerm has never went off if I have followed this sequence. Car is 2001 Boxster with manual.

I'd say that the issue is with the lock unit. I had a same kind of problem that went away when I replaced the lock unit with used Porsche part.

If you replace the lock unit in the door, it has to be for a same market car (EU/US, etc) with also importance which side is the drivers door (EU/UK) and also the alarm has to be same on donor and your car (my car's alarm unit is M535).

I had issue first with alarm being different on first lock mechanism that did not work so the current one all works well - had to order the part from US since my car is originally made for US market...

Now the widows work weal well and all weird issues have disappeared that relate to the windows or locking the car.

7 hours ago, RalphyBMW said:

I think you’re better with a big ring spanner instead; pretty sure that’s what I used.

☝️this!

3 hours ago, Rev Ken said:

I've got my two condensers and THINK I have a list (and part numbers) of everything I need, but if you still have the info, and where you got your 'extras' I would be most grateful. 

Only parts I needed as extras were these seals.

Removed fron bumper. Cleaned radiators and replaced the A/C condensers with a now ones.

Last time I cleaned the radiators was 1.5 years ago and there were again plenty of leaves and other 'stuff'.. Need to do this annually from now on.

1 hour ago, T911UK said:

Cheaper still is the 964RS engine mounts, £130 for the lot,quite a few people have done it

Those 964 RS mounts look very good option. Are those stiffer than the original?

I did import the Rein mounts from US.

6 hours ago, RalphyBMW said:

My exhaust appears to sit a bit low, which leads me to question the integrity of my gearbox mounts (OEM exhaust, so height based upon the gearbox.

The front engine mount was goosed when I replaced that earlier this year.

What is the generally accepted wisdom for replacing?

New complete from Porsche appear to be £230+VAT each.

The 993 mounts are £182+VAT each.

The 993/996 HT mount from D911 appear better value at £115 each, or there’s the D911 performance mounts at £310.

Vibratechnics at £120 each from Demon Tweaks

My current inclination is to get the HT items along with some used brackets.

Any recommendations?

TIA!

I repalced the originals last about a year ago with these tranny mounts: Rein AVT0307P

Works real well on street and on track and pretty much same a as the original imho.

10 hours ago, letsmile said:

As a matter of interest, how long does the polytrol treatment last? Just thinking about doing the bulkhead cover where the windscreen wipers are located.

This C4 is absolutely fantastic to restore plastic to it's original shine and the treatment lasts real long - in my case one treatment to 2001 Boxster is going now 3rd year for example on the bulkhead:

https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-C4-Permanent-Trim-Restorer/dp/B00IOMDVWA?th=1

Got a full alignment done in preparation for wext weeks first race of the season at the Alastaro Circuit Finland. Got a maxed out stock suspension camber at the front... much better feel on short test run today

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I'm guessing it all came apart quite nicely in your drier warmer climate as you don't mention any struggle with corroded bolts.  I did the toe link and coffin arms first like you have, however there was still some knocking although this is more wear related than dry/hard rubber (what mileage are you on?) so be prepared to do the long trailing arms too just for the final refinement.

Yes, the bolts came out easily. I had the alignment done about a year ago and bolts opened that time, so these bolts were is very nice condition now.

Long trailing arms I did change a year ago. All suspension arms are now done between last and this year.

Also antirollbar bushings and related 'dogbones' I did change last year. During winter I swapped front struts upper bushingpaltes and serviced the sturt bearings. Now car feels real solid regardless that it has 183.812miles 😎

BTW, I live in Finland where in rether wet and cold 6 months of the year, probably not so humid as in UK.

Repalced real cotnrol arms and diagonal arms - now all the suspension rubber with parts is done. Car was very solid feeling before, but now much better. Before this swap, on hard low gear acceleration I could feel the tail move on side a bit - not any more

New left side:

New right ride:

Old parts with 'alignement' measures to have the car diveable to the alignment shop with new parts:

10 hours ago, Terryg said:

I always assumed that the centre panel on the seat squab was stitched to the outer panels, it looks from your photo that I was wrong. Is it clipped?

The seat panel (center) is stitched to the side panels. On my photo I had already taken those stitches apart so I can stitch in the new alcantara portions.

Took my Boxster out from winter hibernation with a wide smile on my face

Also, test drove the self re-upholstered alcantara seats. As the seats were taken apart, I did repair the tired cushions and frames - now the seats are very nice and supportive to spend plenty of time on 👌

6 hours ago, Loc986 said:

Hello all,

I have just recently purchased my first ever Porsche, a 2.7 from 2003 with just over 70k miles. Out of the ones I looked it was definitely in the best condition and looked most looked after ( will come to this bit later). Also I have extremely basic DIY skills unfortunately and some technical knowledge but not extensive. 

Got a few questions and things I noticed: 

 

4) Very occasionally when I start it I get a small short whine after the engine has fired which I believe is the starter still slightly engaged on the flywheel, would this be an expensive fix? 

 

 

Fantastic, congrats for a great car

Here's to the question #4:

4 hours ago, Daboy3000 said:

I just bought a VW microswitch from China for about £4 on ebay.  Going to try this weekend as my window goes back up as soon as I let go of the handle.  I was also getting double beeps etc.

Could you give us a link to the switch you purchesed? I'm looking for a microswitch as well.

I have 2001 Boxster and it have from factory a vent tube going from the blue color lights wire connector to between body and fenderliner. So if some condensation gets to the lights, it should also get out by using the lighs for a while to heat the lights units. I do drive my car on all kind of weather (not on snow thoug...), but so far have not seen the condensation issue on the lights.

Could it be @the baron that the vent tube has disconnected from the lights socket and condensation gets easier in to the lights element?

MIne 2001 2.7 with manual transmission has done 292.000km (approx. 181.440mi) and it runs very strong also at the track as I have race it now two years. Oil usage is basically none at the approx 3500mi oil change intervals.

On 12/31/2021 at 11:25 AM, ATM said:

Not sure how tall you are or how you fit in the 986 but I recently changed my seats to some from a 987 and they feel much much better.  The pair I bought even come with alcantara centres.  I'd recommend you try having a sit in some before you invest too much time and energy into the 986 seats because I think - repeating myself - they're much much better.  

 

Thanks for advice. My plan is to have these done and to have another set of seats for racetrack use for a few races a year. These original seats are spot on right size for me, so no need for additional space any direction.

On 12/31/2021 at 10:21 AM, the baron said:

Did you unstitch these or is that how they when you take off the seat?

I did unstich those. Will also unstich the parts where the hogring connecting rods are as I get the alcantara.

Next is the turn for the seat covers. Plan is to have the center parts upholstered in alcantara. Maybe it is time to learn how to use the sewing machine and the needle with thread...😅

2 hours ago, K.I.T.T. said:

+1

When / if the car fails to start, pay attention to the tachometer whilst cranking - it should move off the 0 to the next graduation, or thereabouts.

If it stays pegged to zero, classic crank sensor failure.

 

Same as above ☝️. When the car needs a bit to cool off before re-start, it sounds much like crank sensor.