gillbe

Guess same repair process should be applicable to the rear LED lights too, which are also known for crazing badly

aha - I had the same cold rattly issue and replaced these gaskets and bolts myself recently 👍

You had the exhaust manifold gaskets replaced - just to confirm, you mean at the actual engine - to - exhaust manifold ; not the smaller triangular gaskets between cat and silencers?

Time to update your "My Ride" 😃

I say go for it.  Mine is very similar to that.  Bought as a single owner full Porsche service history with 86K (70K of which was done in its first 4 years)

Now on 97K, service and repairs costs to date

That includes complete new set of tyres and wheel bolts; replacing a/c condensers and a front to back a/c pipe; replacing all front coolant and crossover pipes; all ARB bushes; front tuning forks; exhaust clamps and bolts; and an interim service at CPS inc gear oil replacement, filters and brake fluid.

Am budgeting on a further £3K8 over next 3 years allowing for a  major service and (possibility of) ; clutch and flywheel; front discs and pads; water pump; gear cables.  

Car still worth what I paid for it.

Edit:

Have previous owner receipts, averaged £1,155 per year in costs, all at Porsche dealership, over her 8 years of ownership from new.

On 9/22/2022 at 9:18 PM, gillbe said:

Passenger side still to do.. for another day.

Another day, another 3 and 1/2 hours and a random assortment of wrenches, sockets, clamps and dremel bits later, all done!

 

 

 

 

5 minutes ago, Codfanglers said:

The exhaust flanges is a job I really need to do before winter as they look in a right state.

My late 2007 car has similar looking exhaust flanges to these with what looks like 2mm thick steel with curled around edges on both flanges. Are the studs still just pressed into these or welded at the back? I really don't want to hand this to someone to do to hammer the cr*p out of the studs and ruin the cats.

Can't say for 2007 model.  My forward flanges have a circular boss about 6mm high (like a thick washer) welded to the flange that the bolt passes through.

5 hours ago, philw696 said:

I would have shortened the bolts though.

Wanted to give next owner a nice challenge once these long pristine beauties have become unrecognisable 🙂

6 hours (!) to replace 2 rear exhaust clamps and drivers side of 3 x exhaust flange nuts, bolts and gasket...  Even though 987.2 does not have the notorious press fit studs at the flanges, still a right pain to get the seized rusted lumps of deformed metal off.

Passenger side still to do.. for another day.

Oil and filter change as nearly 12 months and 3,200 miles elapsed since Lee at CPS did it.  DIY on the drive with no surprises.  Reset the dash reminder with iCarsoft.  Changed from Mobil 1 to Mobil Super 3000 X1 on the back of several reccs online for engines that have been a little worn in (96K)

2 x Mobil Super 3000 X1 5W-40, 5L 

MAHLE OX 366D Oil Filter 

New crush washer.

Total parts £81  

Total new tools £30 (oil drain pan and oil filter wrench)

1 hour ago, Menoporsche said:

Triple check, it wasn’t something in the fitting kit? Ie never meant to be inside the engine?

My first thought too.

Great thread!

as a result most of the joints won't even separate...  SNAP!  a feature of the car rather than poor ownership I would say

4 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

NVH?

noise, vibration and harshness

4 hours ago, MickH said:

Someone on here recommended the protex kit. Id highly recommend it too after using it. Just make sure you get the right colour

+1.  

Idea only - as I think my passenger side does a little of this when cold.... Perhaps a seal between silencer and exhaust manifold , no. 8 in diagram below?  Goes away as everything expands and nips tight?

This thread https://www.m5board.com/threads/loud-braking-noise-after-replacement.582034/ ends in success - suggests get them hotter and redo your bedding process  (..bedding procedure was 15 stops from 60 to 30mph)

34 minutes ago, letsmile said:

Finally, just changed my transmission oil - I ordered 3 litres which I thought would be more than enough, but the oil level is still approx 2.5cm below the fill hole level. The oil took an age to arrive, so before putting the plug in and lowering the car would appreciate any feedback as to whether the level I mention is ok?? Thanks for any feedback👍

2.9 987 Manual took 3.25 litres, according to my CPS receipt

seemingly for both reasons, from https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/disk-brake

Basic Principles

The modern automotive disc brake is an ‘open’ type of ‘spot’ disc brake, i.e. the friction surfaces are not enclosed for protection (a ‘dust’ shield may be fitted to prevent the ingress of road debris and water spray, but does not enclose the brake)

From an internet search, they are designed to keep water off discs

I was at a Tech Session with the local PCA at HighTec this weekend, and this specific question was raised. The answer was that it would be appropriate to remove them for a track only car, but not for a street car. The mechanic had removed them from his car and then moved to seattle and very nearly got in a serious accident because of the vastly increased wet braking distance. Those things are safety features. If brake cooling is your goal get the ducts.

43 minutes ago, Lennym1984 said:

Bit late now but you shouldn't have to disconnect anything to fit a new engine mount. You do need to raise and lower the engine a bit but otherwise it should be reasonably straightforwards. I've done a few now and have not disconnected the coolant hoses

Also, was there not a screw as well as the 4 bolts? Might be that your mount has already been replaced in the past... 

 

Edit: ignore everything I have just said, I see yours is a 987.2. maybe the hose routing is different

hose routing is probably the same - it's the change in design of the aluminium casting holding the mount (item 2).  Adds a long leg on one side that bolts to the engine much higher up - negotiating this leg into the gap whilst also clearing the pipes with item 1 is tricky.  

Could have a small leak underneath, collecting on undertrays - and only on moving car out of garage it spills over edge of tray.  Have a look underneath to see where it has dripped from - there are pipe joints hidden by undertrays in line with dash and in line with back of seats 

Has anyone successfully dyed their roof?

Yes, see my post re cleaning and dyeing  

After the run with no heat from blower, are the rubber pipes to the radiators in front wheel wells hot?  They should be, that at least would narrow the problem area down

“She cannae tek it cap’n” 😀

On 4/13/2022 at 6:54 PM, gillbe said:

Picked up the new engine mount and stops from OPC.  When get round to fitting after Easter, hope to see some play in the old one as going in blind (blind faith having believed all the hype....).  Looks like going to have to remove front engine cover to get to the upper bolt - which will be a new experience too.

 

A day spent wrestling with front engine mount removal and replacement.  What a faff!  4 bolts secure the mount frame to the front of the engine - top passenger-side bolt is accessible via front engine cover, but have to lower the engine and gearbox to completely remove the bolt.  Bottom driver's side bolt required a second 16mm ring spanner purchase with less offset to access head for the first turn. 

Then try to get the whole assembly out past the two rubber coolant hoses - managed it, but as for the the replacement?  There was no way of getting that back in, keeps catching on another pipes release spring.  Finally gave in and had to disconnect a hose and catch half a bucket of coolant.  Refilling will be another day's job once the rain goes away. 

Then will be able to actually see effect if any of this change.  (having seen no obvious difference with the 12 year old part removed, I suspect I will be disappointed)

My advice, disconnect the hoses first.