I use a waterproof half cover that serves its purpose without being expensive

Your local Porsche centre can supply, black plastic sill cover including "Boxster" or "Boxster S" insert - I had a quote last month from Bristol OPC for around £51 ea inc VAT

…removed and refurbished rear ARB due to corrosion advisory from Lee at CPS.  Bit of a faff getting lower link arm nuts off until realised 987.2 needs a T20 in the nut head to stop it spinning and not a thin 18 or 17 mm spanner on the body per the vids I had watched.  Replaced bushes whilst there - although could see no noticeable wear despite 93k miles on the original set.

1 hour ago, Paul P said:

Nicely done.  Hopefully that’s a legacy fault, water under the passenger seat as a result of blocked roof drains is common and often the other module under the seat (rear control unit) takes a bath and then the roof and spoiler and rear lights have issues. 

Hopefully - no evidence of blocked drains or residual water.  Did not look at the other module for reasons of, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"....

Fixed rear parking assist.

Symptons: No beep on engaging reverse, then no warning beeps

Checks done: Park Assist Fuse: OK; Reverse light: OK; Park Assist Module on iCarsoft analyser: Not detected !?

Push passenger seat forward, unclip plastic cover in floorwell under seat and locate "Park Assist Module" 997.616.183.01.  Removed connectors and unclipped the module (no need to remove passenger seat)

Discover some green corrosion and rust on the power connector pins to the extent that pin 3 has completely disintegrated!  That is the root cause.  Open up module, cut, replace and resolder an unused pin to the pin 3 location.  Check and rest of module components look fine, no visible damage.

Next how to get the corresponding stub of pin out of the wiring loom socket?  Easier than thought, as bank of socket pins slides sideways out of the holder , exposing the individual wired sockets.  Unclip, pull out, remove stub and reinsert.  Connect up, ignition to On, engage reverse and Bingo! all sorted !

No need to remove the drop links, based on the first video, which makes it easier!

I thought my 2010 2.9 6 speed reaching 94k during this weekend’s run from Bristol to Liverpool and back (via Chepstow, Tintern, Monmouth, Ludlow, Shrewsbury, Birkenhead ) would be in the top few - feeling reassured it’s got many more miles ahead of it. 

12 hours ago, dunks said:

I've currently got a demo log in for Haynes Pro, So i've downloaded all the adjustment data and technical info for a 2001 Boxster S ,  I can access any other cars info for the next 30 days as well...

I can only seem to be able to share via icloud, please feel free to download it and share the info

https://www.icloud.com/iclouddrive/08Je2L6PMC9mh5qdFAflXt1Vg#Boxster_s_Haynes_Pro

Could you add 2.9 Boxster, 2010? 

Interim service and MOT - my first visit to CPS.  Glad to be given a clean bill of health and great service.  Had the gearbox oil changed too, which has made changes quieter.

Rear light clusters out and refurbed by Viper Valets - got rid of most of some fairly distorting surface scratches (no idea how they occurred) and now the leds are bright and clear.

Revisit to FCM for steering wheel alignment.

My car is original in every way - it’s a base 2.9 but was specced with 

paint calipers red

S&F Sports tailpipe

so looks as pretty as an S, but isn’t an S

oh and specced with 18” Boxster S II wheels

Got my details back - second time lucky.  As someone said above, not the complete list (missed the original painting calipers red (£500) and the S&F sports tailpipe(£250) options)

On 10/3/2021 at 5:10 PM, 987RG said:

Thanks for that, just uploaded my details and awaiting verification!

Tried this a year ago, never got acknowledged.  Submitted again last week - not holding my breath .  Maybe they are not interested in members with 11 year base boxsters

Patient: Doctor, Doctor, I've got a steering wheel stuck in my pants

Doctor: And what seems to be the problem?

Patient: It's driving me nuts

Cheap option: Fitted magnetic mount to passenger central vent on mine

13 minutes ago, gillbe said:

After an hour with Lee at FCM, all sorted - corners better, no more "skipping", set up for w/end fun.

4 hours ago, gillbe said:

Off to FCM alignment in Bristol - see if can get rid of skipping feeling from rear at 30 on what look like smooth roads

After an hour with Lee at FCM, all sorted - corners better, no more "skipping", set up for w/end fun.

https://i.imgur.com/dszjAO7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6us6B0A.jpg

https://imgur.com/6us6B0A

[Imgur](https://imgur.com/6us6B0A)

Off to FCM alignment in Bristol - see if can get rid of skipping feeling from rear at 30 on what look like smooth roads

Mine was bought on a whim 8 months ago as a weekender - becoming daily as and when offices reopen.  Keeping half an eye out on autotrader for a 987.2 S but really current performance is enough for my skills so no need.  981 2.7 seem way off in comparison, price wise.  Happy that it's well screwed together and well supported by many forums and users for attempting repairs yourself - something to tinker with without pressure to have it back together by the next morning's commute!  Just wish had a garage to shelter it in.  4 years or a keeper if the forecast all electric domination takes hold.

..or even a wheel sensor , ref  https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/689977-throttle-saga-continues-2.html, "Turns out my problem was a bad wheel speed sensor on the front driver's side wheel that was triggering the cut in my throttle"

21 hours ago, andygo said:

Sounds to me like a hose is collapsing somewhere, maybe AOS or even fuel pipe, which I realise is pretty chunky stuff.

 

WRT to the whooshing sound when removing the fuel cap, wonder if running with low fuel and drilling a small hole in the original fuel cap would help?

Having said that, you mentioned lifting off the gas and reapplying immediately solved that particular episode.Was there an appreciable delay between off and on the throttle?

Is there any consistency to this happening?

+1 try "drilling a small hole in the original fuel cap would help?"  Worth a try to rule in/out fuel tank positive or negative pressure as a cause.  You should not get any whoosh if remove cap with engine running, or immediately after turning off engine.

My twopenneth

Given the whoosh and smell of fuel, googling that suggests a blockage somewhere in the evap system lines - see this thread https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/870986-vacuum-build-up-in-gas-tank-968-a-2.html

Getting to the carbon evap canister and its lines can be done by removing front drivers side wheel, wheel arch liner - it is located against panel between wheel arch and drivers door hinges

Mobile aircon chap out to leak test after I spent weekend replacing condensers and drier.

Sigh... Pressure drop still.  After (hours) searching with leak tester, discovered the culprit - a small corroded patch on the low pressure line under drivers side. Long low pressure line part number: 996 573 091 01 Intake pipe.  Splice or replace - probably the latter as can see beginnings of tiny pinpr*ck bulges under the black material lining this pipe.  Adjacent high pressure line seems ok. 

So the job continues , looks like this video will be what I follow next 

Interestingly, mentioned grills to a local mobile aircon chap who will be regassing mine on Monday after I replace the condensers and drier this weekend - and his opinion / experience was stone damage was rare and it's actually road salt that kills the condensers.  Thinking about it and reading the threads, it seems a common issue in 8-10 year old cars, so maybe he's right...

Irrespective , I will be fitting home made grills behind the intakes as well.

Decided to accept the condenser replacement DIY challenge (after @Mike1960 shared great notes on how easy bumper removal is on a 987.2) and after realising can do with front wheels left in place on the plastic low profile ramps I already have, i.e. no need to buy trolley jack and axle stands (spent the money saved on a 10 manufacturer  icarsoft v2 analyser from ukpartsdirect instead)

Not sure how much PAG oil to inject into condensers and dessicator - varying amounts in other threads and forums from nothing to 40ml per condenser and 10ml in the dessicator.  Open to suggestion.

Ordered today, most to be received tomorrow -  for fitting over the weekend, fingers crossed weather holds good:-