gillbe

Gummi pfledged the roof rubbers, front and back.  

Despite the fine weather, having to use half cover on the drive as a young aggressive sparrow has taken to head butting the wing mirrors and emptying his, seemingly bottomless, bowels all over the paintwork !

If boot coolant level is unchanged since last top up (on the level surface) why worry?

20 minutes ago, EVO Chris said:

Seem weird, or pleased to back around like minded people?

Pros are the face-to-face social interaction with no particular plan or meeting arrangement, and will be of most benefit to the recent, young employees that joined during lockdown.

Cons are the commute (busy, queuing motorway in the manual Box is not something I particularly relish) , tight parking at the office, costlier lunch options, leaving the dog on his own 😉 

Drove to the office.

So what?   Actually a big deal, first day in the office since March 2020 when WFH was imposed

first rain after Protex water proofing treatment....  zero evidence of beading!

I recently had an exercise in tracing the cause of a plasticky rattle that seemed to come from in/around the drivers's side dash binnacle.  Intermittent and weather/temp dependent.  Internet search suggested to check all of following as rattles can travel from original source:-

UJ on steering column under dash, lube; Suspect air vents pipes or wiring under dash; Check roof catches;  Remove all scuttle plastics under frunk and see if goes away; ⬅️This was root cause for my rattle !!!; check headliner catches or internals; Check small Pin on steering column ( if have one, lube it/wedge it); Remove all glovebox components; check Seatbelt clips pushed up; Move steering column in.

Internet opinion only as no personal experience ofcthis: Recall seeing posts or videos pointing at a loose vent hose.  Can access via dash end panel on passenger side with door open

Cleaned roof with Gtechniq W5 solution (3 times) followed by brushed-on 1 coat of Protex Black restorer and 1 brushed-on coat of Protex weatherproofer.  Done over 3 days of dry weather.  No need for all that masking-off business seen in videos, just have a cloth handy to quickly wipe off any spills.  Happy with the results.

BEFORE

AFTER

Picked up the new engine mount and stops from OPC.  When get round to fitting after Easter, hope to see some play in the old one as going in blind (blind faith having believed all the hype....).  Looks like going to have to remove front engine cover to get to the upper bolt - which will be a new experience too.

+3 aged tyres.  Mine did the same, tyres were rock hard compared to new - resulting in no grip until really well warmed up.  New set of tyres, and all was well.

If I can get one with less cloudiness in the clear section, like my rear drivers side, that will do

Opc Bristol £312.37 inc VAT per side.

Or, aftermarket, £495 a pair,  Black '718 Style' LED rear tail lights to fit the Porsche Boxster and Cayman (987 facelift) 09-13

are due back in stock soon, according to the vendor BM Town

@jonttt has these I think 

Keep watching those breakers for now

Drawn a blank so far at the breakers, but you are right, assuming they don't all do this, that is cheapest option

My rear lights look shyate and it is all internal crazing.  Am I the only one?  So what if the car has lived outside all it's life? Is it reasonable to have to replace them (at only £312 per side with discount!) after 12 years?    The nearside one had also suffered historic water ingress due to the lens splitting away from the back along the base and being left untreated by previous owner - discolouring the bottom clear part and tarnishing the silvering to the extent that the indicator is hard to see clearly in daylight.

Looking at plenty of older cars parked up on the streets and their plastic rear lenses look as clear and unmarked as the day they left the factory.  Why are the Porsche units so poor?  Sigh

Anyone tried cutting open to try and clean / chrome spray  and reseal with silicone?

I diy'ed this recently, on a 987.2.  Bought all the parts below in green off local OPC, total £404.   If can do without the plastic distributor pipes (parts 8,9) that saves a lot as these were £65 + VAT each (inc 10% discount).  Needed 8, returned 9 for refund.

I dropped the front of the subframe, just loosening the rear two bolts, after marking with pen alignment marks around the bolts.

On reassembly, nothing had moved relative to those marks, so figured no realignment necessary.

I opened the system at part 28 - did not touch the engine coolant plug or engine filling cap.  Caught about 5 or 6 litres in all.  For refill I splashed out on a vacuum-refill kit from Draper. (same cost as that returned distributor pipe) 

Great detective work!

Another good area to check for leaks whilst you are about it and prior to regassing, is remove the underside panel on the drivers side and check along the flow and return aircon pipes there.  Subject to pinpr*ck leaks from corrosion if your undertrays had been packed with mud and left for any period of time - as I found out.

Ordered front engine mount replacement from local OPC, for a total of £138.

Hoping this will magically fix a vibration in the drivetrain around 3000 rpm and an occasional pendulum effect at the rear if pulling hard out of a roundabout.  If not, dmf seems to be the next candidate.

Front engine mount

1 x 9A1 375 023 22 Console for engine mounting (numbered 2)

2 x 9A1 375 257 01 Stop (numbered 3)

On 3/19/2022 at 10:15 PM, gillbe said:

Pipes all replaced, only needed to use 1 new plastic distributor pipe on RHS.  Worst pipe stumps to remove are the lower front rubber pipes into plastic distributor.  Who knew metal on plastic rust could grip so hard.

Final reassembly on hold, as neglected to order the front left and right pipe supports just in case - and the right hand one, numbered 5 in the diagram, was truly rotten, lower bolt 11 into welded nut sheered and will not come out of the nut; and long bolt down through 6, 8 and into 5 was completely seized in, rendering the plastic pipe 8 useless too.  Strangely cannot see that bolt on any diagrams, looks like M6 x 55 hex head - OPC are trying to source this and two new pipe supports for Tuesday.

Meanwhile, next job is to discover how to get into engine bay to refill...

All bolted back together.  Refilled coolant system - with the excellent Draper 09544 coolant vacuum refill kit.    Had only partially drained front end of the vehicle, no removal of the engine block plug, and yet this tool managed to get everything drained out back in again.  No hotspots, painless exercise!

some pics - what the pipe ends look like at 12 years old; and the refill set-up.

5 hours ago, Boxstercol said:

Good luck, let us know how you get on 👍

Pipes all replaced, only needed to use 1 new plastic distributor pipe on RHS.  Worst pipe stumps to remove are the lower front rubber pipes into plastic distributor.  Who knew metal on plastic rust could grip so hard.

Final reassembly on hold, as neglected to order the front left and right pipe supports just in case - and the right hand one, numbered 5 in the diagram, was truly rotten, lower bolt 11 into welded nut sheered and will not come out of the nut; and long bolt down through 6, 8 and into 5 was completely seized in, rendering the plastic pipe 8 useless too.  Strangely cannot see that bolt on any diagrams, looks like M6 x 55 hex head - OPC are trying to source this and two new pipe supports for Tuesday.

Meanwhile, next job is to discover how to get into engine bay to refill...

On 3/17/2022 at 8:25 PM, gillbe said:

Replaced front wishbones and ARB bushes.  Next, the front coolant crossover and radiator pipes ...  Local OPC have agreed to refund and restock any parts not needed - like the plastic distributor pipes, which is good of them

Subframe dropped - all ready to replace the crossovers and 4 rad pipes 

Replaced front wishbones and ARB bushes.  Next, the front coolant crossover and radiator pipes ...  Local OPC have agreed to refund and restock any parts not needed - like the plastic distributor pipes, which is good of them

12 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

Just aluminium and galvanic corrosion is the course , end off once gone need to be replaced 

Strangely it's the rubber sleeve into plastic pipe that is leaking - other end into aluminium pipe is fine.

2 minutes ago, Ell959 said:

How did you go on this? Did you get the vacuum in the end?

Will probably do without the vacuum.  Not done yet 🙂- car is prepped, i.e. up on stands and undercovers off.  Confirmed leak is from nearside sleeve that sits between mid-to-rear aluminium pipe and joins with plastic pipe ; also another slight weep at base of nearside radiator pipe.  Waiting on OPC Bristol parts dept to quote for a replacement set of coolant pipes (like design911 offer WATERPIPEKIT03)

Red coolant drips discovered coming off rear of the foremost undercover.  300ml topup required (last checked 4 months ago - so a slow leak.

Time to bite the bullet and replace the whole set of coolant pipes?  (2010, 94K )  Will be DIY - looking at all the resources on here, should be doable on the driveway with rear ramps and front axle stands, so long as rain and wind hold off a few days

Do I NEED a vacuum coolant filler 🤔 ....

I would think rear parking assist is the source - the control unit is under the passenger seat in 987.2, where any water getting in will collect and rot things.  Q Do your reversing lights work?  see this similar tale... http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=134221&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20&sid=401e5ee6fe2d17a6ff53acb0adc4bc53