BBB

22 minutes ago, Steve Laming said:

Nope, my car doesnt have this 3rd socket

Perhaps it was a weight saving initiative in Caymans, to offset the extra mass of that tin top 🤣

2 minutes ago, Steve Laming said:

I had a quick look in mine before I went away. Couldnt find one. What side is it on ? Passenger footwell one that is.

 

Right side of the footwell, so the wires are behind the audio/aircon area.

I don’t think there’s anything special about the TomTom power supply, so you can use any high current USB charger. All three of my sockets work with connectors, so yours could be loose through wear? I have found some really cheap adaptors are loose in other cars, so it’s worth finding one that fits well.

When using anything that requires power and is mounted on the dash I use the socket in the passenger footwell as it keeps the handbrake/gear stick area clear. You might find it works better is it hasn’t been used as much.

I have recently done the fronts on mine, with all new parts (mix of OEM, spyder performance and Bilstein shocks). It took five hours on a four post lift, with the help of a mechanic friend, as lots of parts were seized. And I had pre-assembled the struts in advance. The first side was three hours due to cutting out drop links and the coffin arm bolts in the subframe, the second side was an hour quicker due to experience, but the top drop link bolt was a complete nightmare to get out.

On 10/21/2021 at 3:47 PM, Sammysmiths said:

Fitted some dynamic LED side indicators. £25 off Aliexpress, smoked black with 3 bands of orange dynamic LED's. Replaced the clear, OEM style fitted. 

Easy install with no canbus errors. Took 10 minutes. 

I had some of these and one fell off during the first drive after installation. Check that they are firmly into the bodywork as one of the springs on mine wasn’t tight so it popped out and then wizzed around in an arc on the wires while I was driving. I only noticed when I got home. Luckily there were no scratches in the paint, but the spring had come off completely so they both went in the bin and I had to refit the originals.

@Finbox, could you buy something like the Noco GB40 battery booster pack and top up the battery every few weeks? You charge the booster at home, then connect it to the car battery and let the booster pack do it’s thing. Then take it home to recharge.

It’s slightly bizarre that the 987 isn’t a classic yet the Cayenne 04-10 is.

Nothing really new to add, apart from a recent perspective. I bought mine about a year ago, from an “enthusiast” with lots of paperwork. The shine of the bodywork, the lure of my first Porsche, plus a thick wad of history and I bought it readily.

It turned out that “enthusiast” meant washing and polishing twice a week, no mechanical knowledge at all (he thought that the line up the centre of the windscreen meant it was heated for example) and an annual going over by a friendly indy who was concerned with failed items only.

Consequently anything that was “okay” was left and I’m now replacing all the components that have worn over the 16 years since manufacture - suspension, trunk/frunk struts, ill matched tyres, hood tension, exhaust etc. My first service recommended around £6k of things that needed attention.

So, check whether that enticing history of bills covers expensive items and if not, factor them into your man maths.

Oh, and buy a black one if you like them, just factor in paint if/when you get fed up of paint chips.

I’m banking on global warming and living near the sea, to avoid needing winter tyres.

Any use?

https://www.willtheyfit.com/

235/35/19 are normally on an 8.5J ET 55 wheel or an ET 57

265/35/19 are normally on 10J ET 42 wheel or a 9.5J ET 46

This is the sealant that Porsche supply, but a lot cheaper. The one in your frunk is probably out of date.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Terra-S-1099000-Tyre-Sealant

8 hours ago, MickH said:

Why not remove the Snork?

 

Having done my own testing, I definitely have a smoother torque band and no negatives from removing the Snork

That’s interesting! Everything I’d read said to keep the snorkel as it helps to get colder induction air and denser air equates to better power. By removing the snorkel you are also sampling air from inside the hotter engine bay.

Don’t remove the snorkel, just the baffle plate over the intake. I ordered the 3D printed mesh featured in this video to cover the hole, his email is in the link and he makes them to the colour and decals you specify.

1 hour ago, red rocket said:

I had same problem. I think the left one is obscured by the wheel etc and I didn't want to remove that. Absolutely no problem since; I think the lower cowl holds it in place anyway.

Thanks @red rocket, that’s put my mind at ease. I was confused as two screws were supplied and other people seem to mention installing both.

I’ve just fitted the cruise control stalk, wiring and lower cowl but I could not find a way to fit the second screw in the new stalk. The right hand one was straight forward, but the left hole was obscured by a yellow/transparent ring at the base of the steering wheel. It seems sturdy enough with just one screw, but any ideas how the left one was meant to go in?

Second question: is there anyone on here in the North West with coding capability? If not I’ll go to OCD Porsche, but it would be nice to use a forum member.

20 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Should still start strongly after only a week. Could be indication of the battery weakening.

This ^ Mine would look fully charged according to the CTEK, but if I left the charger off for a few days the voltage would drop quickly. I initially thought it may be a parasitic drain, but when I changed the battery it cured the problem immediately.

Now you mention it, I want one too.

Wow, a garage with glass doors!

Replaced the coolant bleeder valve.

I replaced the cap first as mine was the 01 variant, but I was still getting coolant vapour condensing around the plastic that surrounds the filler caps. It took about half an hour, was easy to do and the kit (valve, bottom bit, two O rings and 8 new screws) was £60.

I hope it fixes it, although the OPC parts guy said that most people just leave it as it’s not a big deal to lose some vapour. He told me AFTER I’d paid for it...

Lovely view of Portland in the background. Abbotsbury hill?

Oh, and lovely car 😍

2 hours ago, andygo said:

What saw have you got? one of the bosche versions?

Erbauer version from screwfix, £60

https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-ers1100-1100w-electric-reciprocating-saw-220-240v/405fx

7 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

Wow. How were your coolant pipes while there?

Already done thanks. It was the first job I had done when I got the car, but I wimped out and let an Indy do it when I read that it involved lowering the subframe.

32 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Another initiate at the altar of Boxster suspension rebuilds!  Oh that I'd had a 2 post lift when doing mine!

The rear will feel like it needs doing now!

The rear is definitely next, but only after I buy some more blades for the reciprocating saw!

Reversed out of a parking space at work on Tuesday...BANG!! and the front left corner of the car dropped an inch or so. The spring had snapped about half way up the coil. I limped the car home, wincing over every bump.

Today, with the help of a friend who has a two poster lift, replaced both front struts, springs, coffin arms and tuning forks. It took five hours of hard labour. Had to cut both coffin arms out of the subframe and the top bolt on one droplink was a complete git to get out. It was a much nicer drive home 🥳

5 hours ago, Megatonks said:

I also repaired the 'bits of string' that were hanging out each side. I figured it's extremely likely they cross over to opposing sides in some way to create a proper crease as it folds - and it's just snapped at some point.. I was right. They thread up through a tunnel inside a seam on the outer fabric to the other side, conjoined by a length of elastic in between them. Pulled both out, rejoined using tiny cable ties, cutting them as small as possible, then heat-shrinking over it for smoothness, then threaded it through with a piece of DIY rod lengths. Worked a treat.

I’ve got those ‘bits of string’ too. Did the repair make any difference/improvement or was it just for satisfaction of solving the issue?