BBB

6 hours ago, Gareth_W said:

@BBB What did you use for the switched live?

I routed the solenoid wiring over the gear change cables, under the engine cover and under all the trim on the right hand side of the interior, until I got to the fuse box. I used an ‘add a circuit’ connector and plugged that into an empty fuse slot. The earth went to the bolt that secures the fuse box.

I’m not totally convinced that the slot I used is switched live but the control box is only sat there waiting for a radio signal so I don’t think it pulls huge current. If it becomes a problem then I’ll move the ‘add a circuit’ to the window fuse, which is definitely switched live. I didn’t use that straight away as it’s a 30A circuit and I didn’t want to screw that up.

This link was useful guidance.

https://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/uploads/2/5/1/0/25107268/987valves.pdf

Finished the install of my DesignTek valved exhaust.....and it works 😁

Almost wondrous to be able to change the growliness of an exhaust with a crappy looking remote control.

While I was there I replaced the oil filler tube (which was snapped at the join and had been weeping oil) and fitted a BMC air filter. The weather looks good tomorrow so I’m looking forward to experiencing the exhaust/air inlet plate removal/air filter combination.

Changed my coolant cap as there was a mist of coolant around the filler cap. Mine was the part number ending in 01 and the latest ends in 04.

This from type911shop:

"99610644704 OEM coolant expansion cap, the most up to date unit which ends in "04". We recommend automatic replacement on all models equipped with the coolant caps ending in "00" or "01." Units ending in 00 will typically leak excessively to the point of visual coolant pooling. Units ending in 01 often let off pressure resulting in slow coolant loss, but not to the extent of visual coolant pooling. Other units ending in 02 or 03 should periodically be inspected and tested but are not as commonly 'bad' as the earlier versions." 

5 minutes ago, Laney456 said:

Makes my little crack look miniscule 

Quotable, just for comedy value 😂

I can only offer sympathy. I’ve just done this exhaust install and I was so lucky as mine were in perfect condition and all loosened without drama.

The only solace I can give you is that on my 2005 987.1 3.2, the bolts were just straight through, not pressed in. As you don’t need anything from the silencer side of that joint, as you’ll be replacing it all, I would be tempted to angle grind the old pipe off, then with better access you can grind off each nut and hopefully drive the bolts out with a hammer and punch.

Good luck! 

29 minutes ago, Finbox said:

Actually found more issues, the roof elastic replacement coming soon.

Hey, I'd like to paint the side air vents black. Can I just take them off, spray paint black and spray lack on the top? 

Roof elastic is actually straight forward. Sewing is quite easy, even if you use really ugly stitching.

And yes, remove the outer vent, clean thoroughly then rattle can black and lacquer.

Soul/Designtek/Top gear etc valved exhaust install link if others need it.

http://soulpp.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/987.2-Soul-Valved-Exhaust-Install-Guide-Web.pdf

57 minutes ago, Deano37 said:

Could you share the instructions you used?

Sure. Do you want to message me with an email address and I’ll see if I can send you the pdf?

Installed my DesignTek valved exhaust with the help of a friend who works in a garage, so we could use the lift. It went really smoothly, no hiccups, using a set of instructions for the Soul exhaust, which looks identical.

We only got the pipes on and I’ll do the vacuum lines and wiring on another day. By default the valves are open and it is very LOUD. Quiet(ish) when pootling, but as soon as you accelerate it turns hooligan and crackles on the overrun. I’ll have to get on with the rest of the install asap to have the option to dial down the volume.

The old system had a hole in the upper right corner of the right-hand box, the size of a 50p piece.

5 hours ago, JonSta said:

Couldn't get my left front hand side marker to click into place properly for some reason so I gave in and stuck some adhesive on the back. Bit ghetto but..

I had the same problem. I had to reshape the spring clip with a pair of needle-nose pliers: just a small tweak and then it held firmly.

Did the DRL hack and fitted LED fog bulbs to complete the upgrade. The Philips head screws in the lamp assembly had rusted to hell but managed to get them out eventually. I replace them with marine grade stainless versions and plenty of copperslip, so hopefully won’t face that issue again.

Waited several weeks for smoked, sequential LED side indicators to arrive from Aliexpress. Fitted on Monday, smart looking I thought. Spirited drive today after work but got home to find one of the new indicators hanging from wing by wiring. The spring clip is missing and the light is scratched.

Back to OEM tomorrow and hope the paint isn’t scratched.

Open cap, shine torch inside from the top, the level is much clearer then, when viewed from the front.

@987RG, yours was the video I used. Seems better to stitch than staple.

I did mine a few weeks ago, with button hole elastic, sewn by hand onto the backing fabric. It really didn’t take long and both sides work perfectly now. Very satisfying.

I did find a strand of thick white thread hanging inside the fabric, from the top edge, that had clearly snapped. But I couldn’t find where it was meant to go, can’t see it on the parts fiche and the top works fine so I’m just ignoring it. 

Cleaned six drains with my new trombone brush. Silicone spray on the rubber where the roof meets the top of the windscreen as it was a bit gritty. Spray greased all the moving roof joints as there was a slight judder on the right side. And confirmed that I do have the two rain deflectors on the roof mechanism. 

This is my first soft-top so I’m slightly obsessed with it at the moment.

Thanks for the write up. I have one on order too.

Where did you get your Rennstands @beaks

29 minutes ago, McDonald said:

Tromboning the drains is so wondrously easy, you'll love it. Very good therapy, especially if you find rocks, leaves and /or twigs in your efforts. Keeping the car water-tight is top priority.

I'm still summoning up courage to remove the front bumper.

I'm waiting for my trombone brush so I can join the club. I seem to have picked the only item Amazon didn't have in stock.🙄

Do you have a link to the wonder brush please @McDonald? I already have a flexible brush on a wire but it seems too big to get through the right rear drain hole that I tried it on.

Fitted Zunsport grilles, using the discount code on here they were £80.

Also sewed new elastic into both sides of the hood. It was a much easier job than I thought it would be. I found some nylon rope each side that was broken, but it doesn't seem to have affected anything. 

I fixed the left-centre dash air vent. On my first drive back from buying the car I put my usual phone mount there and broke the vane forks.

I bought a £20 Cayman vent from ebay, and then realised when I got it that the surround was black and mine are silver. Luckily the fronts come off easily and I could swap just the fork behind the adjuster.

Two lessons learned.

On 1/22/2021 at 2:33 PM, McDonald said:

The interior no longer smells damp, but I put 2 x 1 kilo silica bags in each day and they still steam every time I take them out of the microwave. They're collecting moisture from somewhere. 

I have the same sized silica gel bags. When I weighed them they had gained 250g each, so had extracted half a litre of water from the interior.