Buzzlt Posted October 21, 2017 Report Share Posted October 21, 2017 Please can anybody point me in the right direction for the right part numbers so I can search the bay? I have spent a few hours on google and none the wiser till I came on here and found a great post by Duffy but it's dated way back to 2013 so not really current enough. I have a 987.1 3.2s built middle to late 2005 and registered March 2006 and am looking for the correct part numbers for the 'coffin' or wishbone arms front and back. Also the would like to replace the control arms if I can find them cheap enough. The part number on the arms front and back are 996.341.341.08 (cast in) - however after reading Duffy's post it now make sense that this is not correct as they used an old cast for the 987 arms and if you can find the post with a couple of arms on his silvered garden table these are exactly the arms I have fitted. Sorry I am new to this forum as only had the car since March and not sure how to add a link. The arms (I haven't taken them off yet) appear to be different as per Duffy's post as the inner bushes at the front appear to have a washer bonded on each side of the bush (making them stiffer I guess). The reason I am asking is that I have never been totally happy with the handling so I bought some secondhand laser alignment gauges and guess what - different each time I move the car and re-measure. So I'm guessing, must be bushes ! As the car has done 100k plus now and they look original I think it might be time...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted October 21, 2017 Report Share Posted October 21, 2017 Try popping your reg in ECP website and search for control arm and take the ECP number and pop it into EBay which should bring up the arm sold by ECP on eBay along with it's Porsche part number. Do another search with this part number and it should bring up all relevant parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsewell Posted October 21, 2017 Report Share Posted October 21, 2017 Your best friend are the PET diagrams... http://www.jasmine-porschalink.co.uk/porsche-pet-diagrams-88-c.asp Look for your car and the coffin arms are called wishbones and can be searched for. Assuming 987 Boxster S - 997 341 053 00 (or 03) for front. Design911 also show http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod3974/Control-Arm-FRONT-Porsche-987---Cayman---997-99734105304/ which may be a further refinement. Not linked to either supplier other than as a happy customer. Note ECP did not show any wishbones for a 2005/6 Boxster S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzlt Posted October 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2017 Thanks - actually I did that and it does find them a bit cheaper abit on the ECP bay site and their supplier as used their part numbers. So I guess what I am really after is the correct 997.???.???.?? Part number or maybe it is 996...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzlt Posted October 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2017 21 minutes ago, gsewell said: Your best friend are the PET diagrams... http://www.jasmine-porschalink.co.uk/porsche-pet-diagrams-88-c.asp Look for your car and the coffin arms are called wishbones and can be searched for. Assuming 987 Boxster S - 997 341 053 00 (or 03) for front. Design911 also show http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod3974/Control-Arm-FRONT-Porsche-987---Cayman---997-99734105304/ which may be a further refinement. Not linked to either supplier other than as a happy customer. Note ECP did not show any wishbones for a 2005/6 Boxster S. Thanks, that’s really useful. I found some of that info earlier but had not actually searched it. Those look right for the front. I just cannot believe how many different part numbers there are for more or less the same thing. Would love to know what the differences are other than the extra washers at the front! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lonewolfgjp Posted October 22, 2017 Report Share Posted October 22, 2017 I ve got the same car as you and I replaced the rear lower coffin arms. I remember it being a nightmare to get the correct ones without going to a main dealer. But i did in the end get some of fleebay and they have been excellent ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911-32 Posted October 27, 2017 Report Share Posted October 27, 2017 This is timely as I just looked at these yesterday and came to a confused lack of conclusion. I started thinking that all 986/996/987/997 coffin arms were the same. And some vendors sell one part as applicable to all. While others say that the "one" part is not applicable to 987 front fitting. Even PET has both a 996 and a 997 part number next to the schematic. So what is it? Do I need the 997 part no.? For all 4 corners or just the front or will the 996 part no. work just fine? Safe bet would seem to be the 997 part no indicated by gsewell above, but they are invariably more expensive than the 996 ones. I am not being deliberately tight, but why pay more than necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted October 27, 2017 Report Share Posted October 27, 2017 I think the cast arm is all the same but the centre bush changes between variant. That is why you often see the same part number as it will read the same on the casting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzlt Posted October 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2017 Yep same problem here - I cannot decipher the correct chassis number mine is 21737 for a March 06 car. I think the part number for the Front is 99734105303 and not 99734105303 as that is marked 05 year. for the rear I can’t decide between the 99634105317 or the 99733105301 So if anybody can work out how the >> signs actually work in the PET for the chassis number please let us know. fyi I also found a much later version dated July 16 of the PET so I am fairly confident those numbers are correct but there are lots of different ones about. please let me know if you can work it out and I will likewise but no time to do any work on the car till next week.....so no rush for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911-32 Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 While on the topic of coffin arms - how hard is it to just change out the coffin arm? Any common pitfalls? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banjo1 Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 try frazerpart.com 99734105303 / 99734105304 for the front of a 987 2005 car and 99634104316 / 99634104317 to fit the rear of a 987 2005 car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzlt Posted December 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 Well finally got around to buying some of these for the front and fitted one today which was relatively simple and bar jacking up only took a couple of hours. So for the record the part I ordered that fitted was 997 341 053 04 which was labelled the same as with 03 and 00 at the end as suggested before. So thanks for all your help guys, got there in the end. The centre bush was really loose and could easily be moved around with fingers! If you do attempt this yourself be aware you need odd size spanner’s and sockets. 16, 17, 18 and 21 from memory - not in your average toolset! A pickle fork (as the other version won’t fit under the shock). I will try and post a few pictures when I do the other side maybe tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzlt Posted December 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Here you go :- Jack the car up turn the front of the wheel out the undo the 19mm nut on the top of the ballpoint Break the joint with a Pickle fork Undo the 21mm top but for the centre bush. It is 18 at the bottom, you will need to hold it after loosening. Remove the 18mm nut from the inner bush while holding the 16mm bolt head. On the O/S on mine the bolt was seized in the bush but it unscrewed out OK. Remove the bolt and reassemble. Maybe use loctite as I did in the bolts. You may need to jack up the arm so that the taper grips in the hub carrier. Took about 50 mins second time round including searching for the Coffin arm which my Mrs had tidied up since yesterday ? Excluding time to jack up and do the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Your Mrs tidied up?! What's she doing in the garage and out of the kitchen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzlt Posted December 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 13 hours ago, edc said: Your Mrs tidied up?! What's she doing in the garage and out of the kitchen No way she would venture to the garage except to put anything in it which might be cluttering the house !? Don’t worry the arm was in my office, just not where I left it. I didn’t dare disturb her from preparing my Guinness marinated home made beef burgers to ask her where it was ?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Days Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Never mind the marinade -drink the fecking Guinness! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzlt Posted December 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 I did cheers ! Wow just took it for a spin, it’s a whole world better. I can now feel the road ! Pretty sure they were the original arms that have done just over 100k. However quick check of the alignment and I have about 1 degree negative camber one side and about 0.7 the other. Not so bad but 14 degrees negative toe ?. I guess I have some adjusting to do at the weekend. Also the rear arms have turned up today which are different but look like the right ones 996 341 053 17 we will see. Fitting appears to be more or less the same. Although chamber adjustment is on the inner bush rather than the top of the strut. To be continued ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzlt Posted December 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 Rear arms replaced tonight no major issues except for the 21mm but on the middle bush needed one piece of the jack handle on the end of the spanner for the OS and the whole handle plus the spanner for the NS to get it undone! Same strange size spanner’s required . Now I can see that the front and rear arms are in fact quite different front and rear on the 987 unlike the 986 which I think has the same as the rear at the front as well. Front are all the top, rear at the bottom. As you can see the inner and center bushes are quite different so take care ordering peep’s. The part number on the casting for the original arms is in fact the same but they are in no way interchangeable front and rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzlt Posted December 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2017 Sit rep. Front toe is ok but on the rear I have 6 degrees toe in one side and 4 on the other. Drives like a lame horse ! Tried to adjust this but it was already at the max and had a bit of toe in before I started. Looks like I am now on the search for track control arms for the rear at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banjo1 Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 14 hours ago, Buzzlt said: Sit rep. Front toe is ok but on the rear I have 6 degrees toe in one side and 4 on the other. Drives like a lame horse ! Tried to adjust this but it was already at the max and had a bit of toe in before I started. Looks like I am now on the search for track control arms for the rear at least. are you aware that the rear camber also has a bearing on the rear toe? in that when turning the eccentric bolt for the camber it moves the rear wheel out(adding toe in)and in (adding toe out),so the camber needs to be set 1st. also when tightening the inner bolts on the front lower arms the suspension needs to be under load ie car on ground or jack supporting suspension. tightnening torque is 100nm from memory if that helps aswell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzlt Posted December 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 8 hours ago, banjo1 said: are you aware that the rear camber also has a bearing on the rear toe? in that when turning the eccentric bolt for the camber it moves the rear wheel out(adding toe in)and in (adding toe out),so the camber needs to be set 1st. also when tightening the inner bolts on the front lower arms the suspension needs to be under load ie car on ground or jack supporting suspension. tightnening torque is 100nm from memory if that helps aswell. Wow that’s a game changer ! Yes I was aware that the chamber adjusted the toe but not by how much. I was also thinking that the suspension should really be loaded before tightening the centre bush. But am thankful for the confirmation. Loading the suspension and undoing the centre bush so that I could set the camber to about 1.5 degrees negative (about 1.0 degrees previously) resulted in a toe change to approx 12 degrees each side. I have now been able to adjust it to about half a degree toe in each side as it should be. All of this was not easy without a ramp, so wouldn’t recommend trying it at home. So far I have only completed the rear but will have another go at the front tomorrow. It’s a hobby right ? I will get a proper geo check done at some time but probably with new tyres as they have not been wearing well. So thanks very much to Banjo1 for the input. Also as far as I could find out the 100 (assume ftlbs though) seems about right from what I could find out on the forums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banjo1 Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 100 ft/lbs will be too tight.....its 100Nm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzlt Posted December 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 Haven’t got a torque wrench to hand now but just to clarify why would it matter ? As long as it is a tad too tight, I wouldn’t want it to slip and allow the alignment to move. Where did you manage to find the correct figures if you don’t mind me asking as you have already been extemely helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banjo1 Posted December 20, 2017 Report Share Posted December 20, 2017 22 hours ago, Buzzlt said: Haven’t got a torque wrench to hand now but just to clarify why would it matter ? As long as it is a tad too tight, I wouldn’t want it to slip and allow the alignment to move. Where did you manage to find the correct figures if you don’t mind me asking as you have already been extemely helpful. workshop-manuals.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzlt Posted December 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 12 hours ago, banjo1 said: workshop-manuals.com Great thanks - now tightened correctly and drives perfectly with no more knocking. Happy days! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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