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entdgc

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Posts posted by entdgc

  1. 17 hours ago, Paul P said:

    Seen a few references to the tracks on the switch needing to be resoldered, few threads on here (somewhere) showing the process - perhaps its not the switch but the "pathways"

    Yes I had to do mine. I think the solder joint between the tracks and the contacts go 'dry' and you get poor connection. I just heated mine up to melt the solder again and it has been fine since then but I suspect it will go again in the future.

    • Like 1
  2. 2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

    The main problem is people don't keep them inflated to 4.2Bar.

    My 5series has a lovely wheel well where a space saver once sat but BMW decided we didn't need a spare so gave us tyre gunk. Then they decided that the wheel well would be a brilliant place to put the battery even though the original spot down the side of the boot was fine! Anyway I like a spare so bought a space saver and have carried it around in the boot for something like 8 years (two different cars) much to the amusement of several family members. To the point.... The other week I had a puncture and proudly took the space saver out and fitted it only to find it was as flat as a pancake! Thankfully I also had an electric pump with me. "There you go - I told you that would be useful" I proudly said to my wife.

  3. 2 hours ago, Mattman42 said:

    Yep - you are in the mad tax zone for cars registered between Mar 2006 and 2009 - gen2 cars are £365

    TBC my 2008 car (Gen1 obviously) is in the lower tax bracket but is also manual. I am guessing tiptronic is worse performing on emissions.

  4. 2 hours ago, Paul P said:

    An alternative is pagid discs and textar pads (I think those are the people who supply Porsche but it’s a guess as to is the direct supply the same as factory.  ) 

    I did some work with an exhaust manufacturer. They made 3 examples of each exhaust. Best quality for original fitment. Lower quality for OEM spares. Much lower quality for general replacement market. Whether the same applies to Pagid I don't know...

    I have Brembo disc+pads that I fitted myself and they seem fine for general road use. One additional nice to have with the discs is that the top hat has a very nice coat of (hammerite like) paint so will corrode less quickly.

  5. 10 hours ago, Paul P said:

    The connections are supposed to wake up a small part of the electronics.  Enough for the key fob button to pop the bonnet.

    Connected my BMW with the jump leads to the fuse box again this morning the dame as yesterday. This released the key so I tried your suggestion of using the remote and hey presto POP! Not sure if only the remote key works or maybe the connection wasn't good yesterday and that's why the sill switch didn't work?

    Thanks for your comments @Buzzlt. It seems the requirement to have the spare battery connected directly was an internet fallacy - at least in this case...

    • Like 1
  6. 12 minutes ago, Buzzlt said:

    Dunno what you don’t understand. If you supply a small amount of current to the fuse box it should be enough to pop the frunk. It’s all in the handbook. If you don’t have it it is easily downloaded or at the top of the Facebook 987 page. Way easier than finding the pull wire. Sorry it I sound condescending but it’s hard being a Sparky sometimes.

    Yes I have connected my other car via jump leads to the fuse box. +ve to the pull out tab -ve to the door hinge but this did not pop the frunk as I would have expected. @McDonald was suggesting it needs to be the battery connected direct to the fuse box but neither of us understand why this would be any different? Perhaps a clever sparky can enlighten us?

    • Like 1
  7. 1 minute ago, McDonald said:

    From other posts, I've formed the impression that it needs to be another battery connected to the fuse box rather than another car. Doesn't quite make sense to me, but that's my understanding.

    I have read that too but like you 'doesn't make sense'. Maybe worth trying...

    • Like 1
  8. My Boxster is normally kept on a trickle charger in the garage. I needed the garage as we are doing some work on the house so the neighbour offered her garage. It's been in there for 2 weeks and came to move it back today and of course the battery was flat! Connected my BMW up to the fuse box and it did nothing, no lights and the bonnet release still not working. Presume 3yo battery has broken down. Tomorrow I will be searching (with fingers crossed) for the manual pull wire. Is it on the UK nearside or the offside on a very late 987.1?

  9. I took my BMW to a local tyre fitter I use the other day to check for a very slow puncture (guess what - can't repair that sir. Do you want a new tyre? Errr no!). The fitter replaced the wheel initially with a gun then a torque wrench after checking the correct torque. When I pointed out that he had torqued but not 'cracked' one bolt he said 'that was the security bolt and we are always very careful with them'. 

  10. Went to OPC last week to register mine. Filled out a form at the desk and was told there was a backlog so expect something in 3 months. Got an email confirmation within hours. So according to your experience I should expect something in the new year!

  11. 46 minutes ago, Hainesy said:

    Thanks for posting this - I went to register out of curiosity and in the process realised my tax expired end of July!  Can confirm they definitely DIDN'T send me a reminder by wither post or email... sneaky.  

    I received one from GOV just the other week. I might have signed up for it here https://www.gov.uk/mot-reminder. My local garage also send me a reminder so I am well covered.

  12. Replaced the frunk/boot switch. Bought one off Amazon (eBay had cheaper offerings probably all from the same place in China!). In case anyone else has to do this the kick plate has to come out. There are two little grommets which pop off and then DEEP inside the hole there is a small (4mm?) hex which needs to be loosened but not removed before unclipping upwards along its length. The switch unit can then be carefully unclipped. On removal I checked what had broken and the small tower which hinges the switch had gone. You can see this in the image below at the back of the switch. So I would advise not pulling too hard when you flick the switch. Interestingly there are positions for a 3rd switch in the centre. Any idea what application this is for?

    ismk1biBIKosD4Oeu5pfXpav1mlZBz9nF6w0awdY

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