Del_tl1000r
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Posts posted by Del_tl1000r
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I was meaning a fresh hole/ thread rather than trying to drill out the broken bit.
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If the extractor won't come out is it possible to grind off the remainder and drill and tap a fresh thread?
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Hi all. Just had my clutch and flywheel replaced and now working perfectly. What I now notice though is that the pedal action is much lighter than prior to the clutch change. I also have a small squeak when using the pedal. It would appear that the clutch pedal assist spring could be the culprit of the squeak. I am contemplating killing two birds with one stone and removing the spring all together. I have found some info on line that other owners have found the clutch feel better with it out. Has anyone done this?
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1 hour ago, red rocket said:
I've had good results from https://refinishsystems.com/ Local to me so I can order and collect same day, which is useful. Colour matches for both Boxster (metallic) and Skoda (non-metallic)have been good.
Thanks for that. Will check them out 👍
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On 9/15/2020 at 10:28 PM, Craigmann36 said:
The arches on my 987 had begun to succumb to the road rash around the bottom of the arch/sill area where many cars seem to - I often see it in cars offered for sale, in far worse a state than mines was. Seeing as mines was not so horrendous, and my car is not metallic, I thought I’d give a home repair a go. Being a flat colour with no flake, a paint match was far easier to achieve from an aerosol can.
Here is how I went about it:Products used
Bilthamber Deox Gel
Wire brush
All purpose cleaner/degreaser
Zinc primer
Guards Red (or applicable) aerosol
Any good lacquer
Bin bags
Masking tape
Method
Firstly, I washed the entire car, however you can just wash the area if you like. I did it to reduce swirls and marring when masking.
Once I had dried the car, I lightly sanded the area and wire brushed the exposed metal. You can go far more harsh on the areas than I did, and probably should - however it did not affect my end result.
Once wire brushed, smear deox gel onto any areas of exposed metal, and leave to sit for at the very least the minimum time stated on the container. Once it has been left to work in, wire brush the areas with deox gel applied, and remove the gel.
Once the deox gel has been washed off, thoroughly degrease the area, and let dry. Then mask the vehicle up extremely well. I had my wheel full lock to the left to allow access, then masked the entire wheel up. Further I masked up almost the entire arch, half the door and the sill. I used a kitchen roll on the edges of where I intended to spray. This ensured an even blend of paint, and was extremely effective. Also, I advise laying something on the floor underneath where you are painting - unless you like the idea of a PTS garage floor.
Next I laid down 3 layers of Zinc Primer, followed by 4/5 coats of Guards Red, and then around 6 coats of lacquer, to protect from stones in the future. I’m well aware this is not the most effective method, nor am I by any means a professional vehicle repair tech - however as a cheap, temporary home repair, I am delighted with the results.
Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures during the process, only before and afters.
Craigmann36.......where did you buy your paint and was it a good match.
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So just about to order these. They come primed so I just need to get a base coat aerosol and then lacquer them. Does anyone know of a good paint supplier?
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4 hours ago, Craigmann36 said:
I was the same for a few months, was lucky enough to find vents the same colour but couldn’t find backing frames at all; months later got lucky and found one of each side from different secondhand suppliers.
If I were to do it again, I’d go OPC route as they’d have probably been the same price or cheaper.
I agree. If I decide to do it I'll just get new ones. Can't be arsed fannying about with a bit here and there.
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New clutch and flywheel at a total cost of £1730 🤮. Feels a lot lighter than the original. Driving great though.
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12 minutes ago, funkybaj said:
That is a result!! 👍👍
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2 hours ago, Tony Daniel said:
I have a set of these with frames in guards red which I keep on meaning to put up for sale. Are gen 1 and 2 vents different though?
I not 100% sure but I think they're the same.
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4 hours ago, MickH said:
have them on mine Del. Although they are now covered with the scoops. Pop up again have a look
I can't believe I didn't notice them! I"m pretty sure you didn't have the scoops on at that point. Will do once I have the clutch sorted 👍
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I've seen a couple of pics of Boxsters with Cayman side ducts fitted. Has anyone done this? I quite like the look.
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2 hours ago, skoosh1970 said:
Having recently changed my original clutch and flywheel at 151000 miles, i can confirm that the best place to buy the flywheel is from main dealer... no cheap options on the 987.2 2.9 flywheel i'm afraid. I paid just over £1000 from Porsche including the bolts and this was with the PCGB 10% discount. Sachs sports clutch was fitted at the same time by my mechanic.... quite a few cheaper options for the 3.4S but sadly not the 2.9 model....!!!!
Note i did not go for the lightened flywheel option...... dual mass purchased and hoping it's good for another 151k.
Thanks skoosh. It's a hell of a price to pay 🤢🤮 I'm hoping to not be spending anything on it for a while. Although running it daily you never know
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Thanks for the input guys but any of your suggestions don't seem to be compatible.
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17 minutes ago, Patt said:
Phone your local factors and get a quote seem to recall it's Sachs clutch and a Luke flywheel
I'm sure mine was about £600, although that was a few years ago now...
I searched for the flywheel before putting the car in and couldn't find anywhere other than OPC, Design 911 etc. The garage it's in have said the same thing. It's on order now from Porsche Glasgow. Coming from Germany. Should be here in 3 days time. £1078 including VAT 🤢
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In my local garage for clutch replacement. Hoping the flywheel was ok as they appear to be around £1300. Just had a phonecall from them to say I need a new flywheel as well😭😭
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If you are handy at spannering It would be worthwhile doing it yourself. I've just done mine but in the history file I have for the car there is a quote from OPC of £400 for the job and that was about 5 years ago. I guess a local indy would do it cheaper. Good luck.
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On 12/31/2021 at 12:04 PM, skoosh1970 said:
Very nice 👍
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Yeah just fixed with the one screw that is visible in pics. Don't have a template. Just cut the rubber till I thought it looked the right shape. The rubber is 4mm thick. I know they're not brilliant but they do the job.
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Yeah works ok. Would be less obvious against your black.
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48 minutes ago, brillomaster said:
brilliant silver. you've got some very nice multispoke wheels, but having them black means all the definition is gone.
a white car is probably one of the few colours that can pull off a black wheel, but i'd still say a standard silver wheel is better.
What he said👍
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I rubbed the rust spots down, primered them, touched them in and then spotted on some lacquer. I then added some small rubber flaps, for want of a better word. They look quite obvious in the photos as the rubber was new and the flash has also made them stand out but they're not actually that obvious. I do 70, mostly motorway miles a day and I have no more chips. Must have had them on for about 2 years now.
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Mine is doing the same but with the engine running is still very noticeable. Been getting louder over the past few months. Going in for a clutch replacement on Monday.
What have YOU done to your 987 today
in 987
Posted · Edited by Del_tl1000r
Spelling
The only other things I can suggest are to apply heat to the area and see if you can get it to move that way or grind it flat and use a hammer and centre punch on what's left of the extractor to try and get it to turn. I think you'll struggle to drill that out.