Ninesomething

Put it to the small claims court. Bet you a tenner they fold and do it for free. Add to the claim the cost or hiring a replacement car.

On 4/26/2024 at 11:17 AM, Bennyboyc said:

I assume that if I replaced the standard PASM springs (10mm lower than standard) with H&R 10mm lowering springs the car would stay at the same height? Or is the  PASM lowered height achieved via shorted dampers, or something else, hence fitting the H&R 10mm lowering springs would reduce my PASM car by a further 10mm?

Yeah you'll be the same with the H&R -10s. 

1 minute ago, Hainesy said:

You mean the bit I sprayed?  It's still attached! The rest of the doorcard is just masked off in the photo.  But yes, it looks like it has plastic welded tabs that fix it in place so left it well alone.

Ah - gotcha. Makes sense....👍

14 hours ago, edc said:

The variance in cam deviation is often cited as a possible cause of IMS failure. Don't rule it out. 

Would've though if it were IMS it would affect both sides and the readings would be all over the shop... Dunno.

14 hours ago, Hainesy said:

Haven’t tried putting them back on yet, think they came off ok, just need resetting but bought some spare anyway just in case: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296182393845?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=aiUWzZxKTF2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=WAJs85DbQs2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I meant reattaching the hinge panel to the door card. I watched a yt vid and the guy had to break the clips to get the 2 bits apart. Can't remember how he put them back together.

3 hours ago, Hainesy said:

Took off the door panel to replace the faulty window switch, then stripped off the scratched up rubberised coating on the top trim and sprayed it up.  It's early days to see how well it will last but if it goes well then i'll tackle the centre column next.

I need to do this. How do you reattach it to the door panel? I was under the impression that you have to destroy the little clips to separate it in the first place. Other thing I'm not motivated by a broken switch luckily.

Worn timing chain tensioner pad on one side? Maybe someone had changed one side in the past. That's a big difference - -11.

Anyway we're so far off topic now I can't even remember how all this started.

Parrs - they rebuild manual boxes. Long way from you though....

1 hour ago, ATM said:

Fixed now

 

I'm not exactly sure where it was leaking but it was clutch fluid not gear fluid.  Sump holds gear fluid - I believe but not certain.  Specialist I used dropped the gearbox and replaced all seals - receipt below.  Clearly these parts are available unless this specialist knows some Voodoo.  So every business I called could have affected the same repair if they were willing to even look at it.  Assuming external seals are available and it is internal parts which are not.  But if you didn't call this specialist you might be left thinking your box was not repairable.

 

 

I'm guessing that all of this is 'external' by which I mean he had to go in there but he didn't have to futz around with the deep dark inner workings of the mechanism itself. This sort of stuff isn't rocket science - makes you wonder why people won't do it..... I'm speaking here as a person who once rebuilt a chrysler torqueflite autobox on his kitchen floor. A fact my wife reminded a friend of ours about only the other day.

14 minutes ago, ATM said:

Exactly - the nads is the problem

 

I dont know if this exacerbated by the Great British Public who expect the world and for cheap.  If you were a specialist and offered to attempt a repair and then did not achieve a good result would the customer pay you anything and be willing to accept the car back broken.

 

I called several Porsche specialists and some gearbox only specialists and no one was even willing to look at my car with a simple PDK fluid leak.  I felt like a moron even asking after several attempts.

Surely you have to drop the sump for a PDK service and presumably change the gasket. Is that where yours is leaking?

On 4/21/2024 at 12:56 AM, ATM said:

I broke the gearbox in my 996. It was more cost effective to replace with a used box. In 996 land the more thick skinned owner operators understand they are a known weak point. A couple of specialists have popped up who now work on these. But I went into ownership assuming the same, a manual is basically robust enough to just forget about it and found out the hard way that's just not the case.

 

Then we come on to the PDK. I had the same problem with mine where no business would even want to talk to me about fixing it because Porsche don't sell the parts. So even if you did get it apart and then find the problem what do you do next if you can't source the parts. So again that situation is now changing with one or two places willing to open up a PDK to fix something as a known issue.

 

As this is a manual box the PDK discussion is basically irrelevant. I mentioned it because I know for a fact that Porsche do not sell parts for the PDK so if they do for the manual then this is a different ball game.

 

I might be able to find some gearbox specialists which are better known for their skills with 996 manuals so if you go down the repair route then give me a shout. This is only possible if Porsche sell the parts. With my 996 gearbox the cost of 1 new gear was more than the cost of a used replacement box. So again it depends on the availability of parts and the cost of these and then compare that to the cost and availability of a used replacement box whole. If there isn't much demand for such things then they may not be too expensive. 

 

Good luck 

Risk of wandering off topic it's said that the parts that cause probs in the PDK are usually servos and sensors which are generic parts made by Bosch or ZF and fitted to a lot of boxes. They are cheap and available. Just needs someone with the nads to pull it apart and test it. There's a big thread about it somewhere - poss rennlist.

23 hours ago, Happy Days said:

Another update - and thanks for all the responses.

My sales guy rang. The SA had given the worst-case scenario - probably in hindsight it's the best thing to do. Belfast have rasied a ticket with Porsche UK initially stating how thoroughly decent a chap I am (ahem....!) having bought three Porsches from them etc etc and given the known fault in this type of gearbox would they contribute. I will update when I know more. I have no issue with contributing - it's over 7 years old, no warranty and hasn't been serviced by the dealer in a while.

The known issue is that instead of the gears being located by keys and slots, they get welded on - the weld breaks, the gear spins freely etc. Well documented on GT4 models - this has the same 6-speed box. Just that there aren't that many manual 718s.

For going down the 2nd hand route - who knows whether the replacement box would be just about to do the same thing. Cheaper to wait for claims than to issue a recall, I suppose.

Ought not to matter whether you're a decent chap or a miserable tw*t - car gearboxes last more that 44k and they admit themselves there's a known issue plus you're suffering loss of amenity by not having your car. Not good enough Porsche. I don't think I've ever had a broken manual gearbox in a car of any mileage. I have broken 2 automatics though.

On 4/17/2024 at 10:07 AM, Hainesy said:

Yeah I've skimmed their site but wanted to lock down the parts list before I started properly price hunting down the best prices.

Don't think I've ever paid for alignment before - is it the sort of thing it's fine to go to a 'high street' type outfit for? 

Depending on where you are in Beds I totally recommend Orbit tyres in Wellingborough for alignment. The guy that runs it has owned 2 Boxsters and a Cayman and did a perfect job on mine - even adding in all the camber on the front like the likes of centre gravity do but at 4 times the price. Proper alignment will make the difference between 👌 and a car that handles like a plate of jelly on a stick. If you want I'll meet you there with my 'perfect' result print out and we'll get them to duplicate it.

13 hours ago, Pothole said:

If you want to lower it, use Boxster Spyder springs. The H&R and Eibach kits are too low on the front axle. The Boxster Spyder / Cayman R were set as low as you can practically go with the factory arms before running into problems with travel and geometry.

You have to be quite careful lowering a strut based car like a 987. Struts have a fairly narrow operating range in terms of maintaining geometry not just in terms of setup but in terms of dynamically when you are driving. But it's the reduced travel that really kills the drive. Neither the H&R nor the Eibach lowering kits are stiff - barely any stiffer than the factory springs. But they set the car too low and the suspension simply can't operate properly. That's what compromises the ride and why people often say their car has been spoiled.

It's a little variable and some cars end up worse than others for some reason. And you can mostly or entirely fix it by adding some extra spring pads. But much better to just get some springs with the right spec in the first place.

The Spyder / R springs likewise aren't terribly stiff. But they allow the suspension to actually operate.

Yeah I did this on my last Subaru. Lowered it to where the geometry was outside of it's working range. Whiteline sold me some offset brackets that put it back to where it was working properly. 👍

If you fit another used gearbox how do you know you won't end up in the same boat down the line. Do Porsche say that they have cured the issue (which they created by cheaping out on build costs)?

On 4/13/2024 at 6:49 PM, Lonewolfgjp said:

I m a big fan of PASM, quite underrated on the forum but I think it is perfect for our crappie UK roads.

I noticed a big difference going from a 986 to a 987.1 with PASM, but found the Sport setting way too firm but as the PASM is permanently active it is adjusting all the time in non Sport mode.

When I had my 987.2 I managed to find a used DSC controller for a reasonable price and wow what a difference that made! It made the suspension a lot more responsive and adjusted to give you the best ride possible, so much so that I used to drive everywhere in Sport mode as it was firm but controlled adjusted and kept the ride compliant even on bumpy roads.

Very very impressive 👌😎

I wasn't that impressed when I first put it on mind you it was used and it came with a custom tune for a 997 GT3. Probably worse than stock. I downloaded the official 987 tune and it was better but the ride was still plenty firm so I did my own demon tune up. If all else fails read the manual. I had programmed in some values that were outside the available range so the poor thing got confused. In my defence it doesn't tell you in the manual what the available range is. Reading something somewhere I realised where I'd gone wrong. Retuned it and wow. First thing was that going slowly over bumps in town you can actually feel the damping working rather than it just crashing into potholes. (We have our fair share hereabouts) The revelation happened in sport mode though. It feels like cheating to just throw it into any corner at any speed and not even have to use my (limited) skills to make it do whatever I ask. I also forget sometimes that I've left it in sport mode when going slowly. A permanent marker on the dash would help. The downside is that I used to be able to punch it out of corners and hang the back out a bit but there's so much traction now you have to try really hard at speeds that are frankly a bit daft on the road. On one closed, private bit of test track officer I use a guy was coming the other way on a sports bike. He turned round in the road and came after me. Poor bloke - I slowed down twice to let him catch up and have another go. To be honest the road was slightly damp in places and I probably wouldn't have gone any faster on a bike but he was just a dot...  In the end he turned off. It just seems like the harder you push it the better it feels. It really wants taking on a track to figure out what it can do.

On 4/12/2024 at 6:21 PM, phazed said:

A Bendix affair was used on the old starter motors. It was a heavy spring on the shaft with a small gear attached. The old starter motors threw themselves into the ring gear and turned the engine over. On an old car, the ring gear would have worn teeth in this area as an engine quite often stopped in the same place.

Pre-engaged, starter motors Have been widely used for years and a solenoid throws the shaft with gear attached to engage the ring gear before it starts turning. When it is engaged it then turns eliminating the wear and tear found on older style Bendix starter motors.

Guess it's been a long time since I had a car with starter motor problems. Touch wood.👊

On 4/12/2024 at 7:51 AM, Bike Loon said:

First post would indicate that maybe he received them some time ago and has not realised maybe. Still not great service as they sold you the car!

Quite. I'll probably stick them on here for sale. Can't be bothered to argue beyond what I`ve done but I won't be buying any more cars or parts from them. From their perpective the difference between the ones I have and the ones I need is irrelevant. I obviously offered to pay whatever the difference was but no dice. 

Out of curiosity what did the oil test cost? I won't call you an idiot.

H&R lowering springs are either 10mm lower which is the same as a PASM car or 35mm lower which is quite an increase. Sadly on the .1 cars PASM is a bit half-baked. For example it's a 4 channel system but they released it as a single channel system so instead of each wheel reacting individually they all react together. Also the stock settings were devised on glassy smooth German roads not on our obstacle courses. 

As Lone says the cure is a DSC sport controller. Expensive but they do come up used - I got mine for less than half price. Total game changer from a driving perspective but does nothing for aesthetics. 

11 minutes ago, BBB said:

Maybe just clean the bit that flings out when you turn the key (run out of technical words at this point), as that seems to be the bit that squeals when it gets dirty?

Bendix?

22 hours ago, Randeep said:

Alright gents, thought I'd let you know my outcomes with a 987 airbox, 987 MAF, 996 TB and 996 plenum. I have a facelift 2.7 which needed a new engine, so the new to me engine went in with the new to me intake upgrades. A few weeks ago I took it to ChipWizards to get it mapped as Wayne really knows his stuff. So the outcome was 235bhp and 203lbft (I think...will check) torque. Wayne said the intake changes make more of a difference on 3.2 engines and those with exhaust upgrades (I have standard manifolds and exhaust). The difference in drivability however is where its most noticeable, pulls harder low down and revs much faster. The 987 airbox also had the helmholtz resonator removed to make it fit so the induction sound is amazing. All in all I would have liked a bit more power (I'll wait for my exhaust to die) but drivability and sound make it worth while. The 987 airbox makes the most difference, MAF, TB and Plenum are nice to haves on a 2.7, might add a couple more ponies for larger engines with the exhaust mods.

Can I get to the helmholz resonator by just removing the airfilter? I'm assuming there's a hole through to a secondary chamber that just needs to be plugged. Don't want my helmholz resonating unduly.

Update. Eporsche sent me 2.7 discs instead of S ones. And they refused to change them despite the fact that they sold me the car. So they're off the Xmas card list. 

The rest of the work was all done and the stainless hoses/GT3 master cylinder are a great mod - even with the old discs/pads until I can get some new ones. The rigid pipes were in a shocking state - the guy put some pressure on them and they just broke into pieces. Replaced them with kunifer so that's one less thing to worry about. 

This is made in England,  lighter than the Aasco and designed for the stock clutch. Also a fair bit cheaper.

https://www.atspeedracing.co.uk/products/billet-steel-flywheels/porsche/porsche-boxster-caymen-lite

Bit of an expensive job. My RMS does need changing though.....

Painted the side vents black (car is black). Really like it.