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beaks

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Posts posted by beaks

  1. Hi all,

    Received my 'BallyBar' from @bally4563 today and whacked it on. 

    It's a royal 'piece of urine' to fit, but thought I'd do a quick write up on here for anyone thinking of getting one.

    First things first - get the car up in the air. Apparently you can do it without jacking it up but I'm not the 20 year old gazelle I once was...

    IMG-1282.jpg

    Note - you don't need to take the wheels off but as it was up in the air I took the opportunity to give the brakes etc a once over.

    Next job, using a 13mm socket remove the anti roll bar bolts on both sides (shown as 1 in the photo below). You can then pull the bar backwards to give you better access. Again, it may be possible to fit the bar without doing this, but for the sake of removing a few bolts why make life hard for yourself.

    Once you've done this, use a 15mm socket to loosen the nut shown below (2). Don't take it all the way off, leave 'most' of the thread showing inside the nut. Then either using a punch or a 15mm impact socket (I recommend the socket) hammer the bolt out from its the housing (it's a captive bolt). If it doesn't come out wind some more of the nut off and go again. It will come out! Obviously you'll need to remove the bolt on both sides...

    IMG-1284.jpg

    Next, slide in your bar and simply line it up where the bolts you've just removed once were. Drop the new bolts in, then tighten up the nuts. Not sure of the torque value, but I'd go 'half a turn before FT'...

    Drop the 4 anti roll bar bolts back in and that's it. Job done.

    IMG-1288.jpg

    IMG-1287.jpg

    Get the car back on the ground, pat yourself on the back and crack open a Stella and chill.

    Cheers all.

    Ian B

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  2. 9 minutes ago, Bayernlarge said:

     

     

    Thanks Beaks, what did I do wrong that meant my photos didn't display? I followed the 'how to' to the letter.

    no problem mate.

    click in the 'other media' in the bottom right of the page (when posting) - select 'insert image from URL' and then copy the web address into there. 

    that should be all you need to do 🙂

    • Like 1
  3. 2 minutes ago, Bayernlarge said:

    Fitted new grilles from The Radiator Grille Store in the US. Thanks to @Lonewolfgjp for posting them on his thread.

    I felt I had to add some protection and wanted to keep the front of the car as OEM as possible. These were a doddle to fit, without needing to take the bumper off. They're secured with two supplied zip-ties which are completely invisible once trimmed.

    A big thanks to Eric, who was really helpful in finding a cheaper courier than was auto-quoted on their website. They only took two days to ship, and I got lucky and wasn't charged any VAT / import duty on arrival.

    Simple but great product and excellent service.

    Here's a close-up front view:

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/wucEqoF.jpg[/img]

    And one from a more normal viewing angle:

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/Tr16TTl.jpg[/img]

    wucEqoF.jpg

    Tr16TTl.jpg

    • Like 1
  4. 15 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

    Useful but seems to take a decade to load! Ultra-hi res pics or is my wifi on the blink?

    Likely this thread belongs in How To.

    yeah I think you're right - would change to lo-res but no way of editing my post?

  5. Just thought I'd show how easy it is to install these bars.

    Below are the parts you need - 2 struts, 2 nylon inserts, 2 M10x45 bolts and 4 M6 x 20 bolts.

    BE9-CDAC2-0-E08-43-B2-8-D2-B-93-A0-D0588

    The above were standard fit on 997's and believe they were on some 986's too - not sure why they didn't make it to the 987 but hey.

    For your 987, you need to be sure your car has the plates with threaded inserts on the strut towers and also the big black bracket on the bulkhead (although I think all 987's have this) - 

    22-B99-C1-D-392-C-493-B-8-DEA-0-E05149-E

    9-CA67-E53-9-CDC-4-A2-F-AAE3-F40-B52-A09

    4881-D69-D-BABC-4-B8-A-858-C-944924-FB1-

    First job to do is remove the scuttle cover. Remove the plastic caps from the wiper arms, and using a 13mm socket take the nuts off, give the wipers a wriggle and remove them.

    Top tip - put some masking tape on the screen so you can easily get the wipers back in the right position when you refit them...

    2-EF7-CB69-49-DF-45-C6-91-A5-B662710808-

    Then whip the plastic covers off at the end of the scuttle panel and using a (deep) 10mm socket remove the nut). Then using a T20 torx bit remove the screw in the middle of the panel.

    After that, there's another two torx screws that hold the 'feet' of the scuttle panel (you can see one of them just behind the connector in the photo below). Whip them out, then disconnect the heated nozzle connections (2 off) and also pull the pipe out for the washer nozzles...

    6-D1-CEFC6-A47-B-4154-B6-A9-1-A8-E0-A809

    Once that's done, you'll be able to remove the scuttle panel. It takes a bit of manoeuvring but take your time, don't force it (!) and you'll get there.

    Next up, the nylon insert for the o/s strut comes in two halves so it can get around the pipe shown below. It's a bit tricky to get seated into the bracket, so I found removing two of the bolts (10mm socket) holding the wiper assembly gave a lot more wriggle room. It has to sit in the exact right position otherwise you won't get the strut lined up with the bolt. The wiper bolts to remove is the one in the middle of the bracket (shown above, pink paint) and also the one at the foot of the wiper motor bracket (below the next photo, again, pink paint). Once the insert is seated correctly, remember to put the wiper bolts back in!

    3-F57-F90-C-66-CA-4-B1-C-9-C94-675032578

    038-FF9-A4-3-B79-44-DE-A91-D-912697-C1-A

    Next up you can now fit the first strut brace. Get it in position, drop in the big bolt at the bracket end first, then put in the smaller bolts at the strut end. Use a 10mm ratchet spanner to do these all the way up tight, then using a 15mm socket do up the big bolt on the bracket end. You will then have this - 

    62-C2-A07-E-5-D10-4506-814-A-097-E1-FE42

    For the n/s, again fit the nylon insert into the bracket (a lot easier!) and fit the same bolts etc as the o/s. You will then have this - 

    5-F264921-F685-4-B96-AE73-BF45-B7770-C17

    EBDB2031-A4-CA-45-F0-B68-E-D32-FAD827-D7

    Put everything back the reverse of how you took it apart and you're good to go. Don't forget the connectors for the nozzles and the washer fluid hose...

    Once everything is back in place it looks pretty good - if you're super fussy like me it keeps a nice OE look and doesn't look out of place. I couldn't cope with a whacking great aftermarket brace running across the strut towers.

    Oh, one thing - the two struts look virtually identical but are handed - so if the one you fit doesn't line up don't panic - grab the other one!

    I'm sure everyone will have differing opinions on how much difference it'll make - but for me, it's a cheap modification and it will have 'some' effect - quite how much will be debated (most likely) until the end of time!

    If anyone wants to buy the parts, these are the numbers you'll need -

    99650423301 Dome Strut L

    99650423401 Dome Strut R

    90037810001 M10 x 45 Bolt (2 off)

    99650463400 Filler piece L

    99650463300 Filler piece R

    90037817301 M6 x 20 bolt (4 off)

    If you're buying 'new' that little lot will cost around £135.

    I bought the bolts and nylon blocks (filler piece) new but the struts I got cheap from eBay. They weren't in great condition so I rubbed them down and resprayed them satin black. I'm not an expert sprayer but they've come up ok.

    62506-AF5-565-A-46-C8-9-CAE-029-CAAC7140

    Anyway, hope the above it useful!

    Cheers,

    Ian B

     

     

    • Like 2
  6. 10 minutes ago, JonSta said:

    It is very difficult to get back from a blast without a big silly grin on your face. Went out today 'just to blow a few cobwebs' off the car. Suddenly realised I was quite a long way from home. Started trying to think of an excuse in case I got pulled over by de five-oh.

    Just make sure when you get pulled you have "**** tha police" by NWA on full blast, they'll appreciate that.

    Quite often, the reason I go for a drive in these times is purely to help my sanity and keep my own mental health in check.

    • Like 2
  7. most of the low profile jacks have a minimum saddle height of 75mm - if anyone knows of one lower than that please let me know.

    i think if you go for sealey, halfords, clarke etc you can't go wrong.

    buying a cheap trolley jack is like buying a cheap crash helmet!

  8. 33 minutes ago, AdyG said:

    They look impressive,  can you share a link for them?

    Cheer Ady

    Here you go chap - 

    https://safejacks.com/products/the-rennstand-by-safe-jack-single-unit

    I had to import them direct from USA - not cheap but worth it (in my opinion).

    If you are going to get a set, make sure you get two 'pucks' that will be specific to your car.

    Also the nice bag is cool too - when the jacks are disassembled it helps keep everything neat (and not lost!).

    https://safejacks.com/collections/apparel/products/heavy-duty-safe-jack-canvas-bag

    If you've any questions on them just give me a shout.

    Cheers,

    Ian B

  9. 1 hour ago, JonSta said:

    Plenty of people ride motorcycles whatever the weather. On a motorcycle I like to explore the outer sticky bit of the handling envelope. If that bit isn't sticky I wouldn't bother - just not interesting to me. I drive the boxster in much the same way. I could drive it slower or more carefully but I'm not bothered. Same with the roof. I like it down. OK I have driven it topless when it was 5 degrees outside but I'd sooner not.  S'alright for you - you're from Yorkshire. I'm a namby pamby southerer.

    fair play chap - although I have to admit I'm a (shandy drinking) southerner too - and not only that a tier 4 southerner...

    the joys of covid...

  10. 1 hour ago, JonSta said:

    The roads are wet and covered in slime. I'd have to drive slowly. No thanks.

    Dude. I'm just back from the Yorkshire Dales. I had a decent blast. I'm still alive and so is the car.

    It'll be cleaned tomorrow.

    Your choice and it's totally cool. But I'll never understand it.

  11. 18 hours ago, JonSta said:

    Started it. First time in 3 months. I love that little yowl when it starts from cold and I love how smooth it feels. Be really nice to actually drive it.....

    Weather in this country sucks.

    word around the camp fire is that 987's don't dissolve in the rain.

    go out for a blast chap.

    • Haha 2
  12. 8 hours ago, Tper8181 said:

    I have a squeak when first moving the car coming from this area

     

    could you describe the noise you were hearing ?

    for me, on low (fan) speeds, the fan made a squealing noise which eventually went away when you wound up the speed.

    is your issue fan related? it sounds like you have a noise when you drive the car?

  13. 4 hours ago, Davey P said:

    Awesome bravery that man, nice one :thumbsup_anim:

    I bought a DA polisher months ago, and haven't even been brave enough to plug it in yet :lol:

    What a lot of people do is purchase an old bonnet, boot, wing, whatever is cheap and practice on that.

    You can destroy it... and it doesn't matter...

    I actually did a detailing course a while back that shows you how to use it properly but I guess that's a little extreme...

    • Thanks 1
  14. 1 hour ago, Mattman42 said:

    Would it not have been easier to buy thin soled shoes? 🤔

    only kidding, if that works for you, great result

    let's not get into shoes (see Sparco thread)

    it's more about the lean of the seat than legroom... 

    an extreme way of doing it but hey, my car is specifically to be enjoyed 🙂

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