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Posts posted by Boxsum
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Replaced all 4 on mine the other day with TRW ones, they all came out easy, guess it just depends on the car.
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8 hours ago, edc said:
No markings and a poor fit, sounds like a counterfeit item.
I think it was genuine but I’m wondering if they make parts in the same factories for other companies to sell at a cheaper price under another name hence why not marked but who knows!
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39 minutes ago, Fat Rat said:
Yes,
No. Just L & R. same as the ones I removed.
Tighter doesn't always mean better. Joint looks totally different. Proof is in the pudding. But I believe your plastic cap one to be an original if it is stamped up.
No stamping , that was my query.
Heard nothing back from ZF and don’t think I will.
Anyway all sorted sent back and reordered from another source that has confirmed there stock is as wanted 👍 -
7 minutes ago, Fat Rat said:
I have a pair at home that are French versions from 2 different suppliers. See no different to the ones fitted to the car and the rears that i removed last year.
They had been on a fair while and weren't to bad.
Very much the same as the Meyle ones I fitted last year.
Are they plastic capped ?
Have they a TRW stamp on them ?
Be interesting to know for comparison.
I’m sending it back regardless as the socket is do free to move , I can barely move the other ones . -
Forgot to also mention the 3 from Turkey are all marked with the TRW logo the other isn’t.
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Just now, Bbooxxsstteerr said:
Really interesting. I’m showing my bias as I like Renault and Peugeot.
I have contacted ZF by email with pictures and explanation but have not heard back . It may just not get followed up and never get a reply.
Would be interesting to find out if your theory is correct thou. -
12 minutes ago, Bbooxxsstteerr said:
We should complain about this sort of stuff.
If it’s a knock off then if TRW know they should jump on the forger as it damages their trade.
If it’s not knock off and ZF (who own TRW) have a duff manufacturing division in Turkey and a good one in France they need to be told getting stuff done cheap in the Turkey and disinvesting in the good French one has consequences.
Im making a huge assumption the French one is the good one.
It’s the 3 that we’re made in Turkey that are far superior!
Im thinking I may Send it back as it’s so poor. -
I bought 4 TRW drop links the other day 3 from 1 supplier and 1 from another as no stock.
Was surprised by the difference in quality even thou classed as the same part.
Take a look 👀The ones with the metal inserts have good thickness of paint and are difficult to move , the one with the plastic insert almost moves under its own weight.
The quality of the bare metal is different and finally the metal insert ones are stamped TRW, the plastic insert one is unstamped.
Anyone else experienced this?
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Tried 2k lacquer before as well as ceramic coating so this time Im giving Oraguard ppf a go. It was relatively straight forward to apply and now leaving them inside the house for a good week by the radiator to properly bond. From what I understand this can also be ceramic coated for an extra layer of protection but must be left a number of weeks beforehand.
Be interesting to see how it performs.- 3
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Haven’t read the whole thread but has anyone suggested the Carnewal GT option ? Seems a very reasonably priced option !
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29 minutes ago, ½cwt said:
People talk about bhp, but what you notice or 'demand' with the throttle is lbft or torque. It is why turbos are so effective as they give loads of both and why it is so difficult to get good torque increases in a normally aspirated engine. A 2 litre turbo running at 1bar or 15psi boost is effectively a 4 litre engine (give or take some compression ratio in the cylinders).
It’s interesting that many people disliked the later turbo engined boxsters🧐
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6 hours ago, edc said:
Here's a couple of relevant old posts. Pick your way through if you haven't already
Dyno plots seems to show here
https://www.BoXa.net/topic/53075-blue-boxster-s-with-18-sport-classics/page/11/
The manifolds seemed a good investment per bhp 👍
Ive fitted the euro cup gt headers but never had a dyno run to see the difference
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On 2/14/2024 at 9:36 AM, Daboy3000 said:
Was it leaking into the passenger side? What was your fix?
Yes the pollen filter was soaking wet and water was coming through and making the passenger carpet wet.
Mice had nibbled away at the foam cover so I just put a small strip of tank tape along the joint line of the hard plastic cover and this fixed it. The independent Porsche specialist I use said even when the foam tray isn’t damaged if the car is parked at certain angles , ie on a slant water can still drip in . The 987 has an upgraded full cover to resolve this. He said everyone jumps straight to blocked drains and a/c pipe but in many cases it can be simply this.- 1
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I had a similar issue once!
I would also just have a quick look at your pollen filter. I found that mine was wet and rain had come in through there. It only happened when it was parked on an angle . The foam cover only partially covers and can let water in if the top plastic cover doesn’t do it’s job . I’m pretty sure the 987 has an upgraded full undercover. -
After a little research and a few test drives I actually think the 981 seems the car for me so going to pursue this.
What I’ve learnt is that rather than just keep reading and looking at adverts you just need to get out there and drive a few cars .
Thankyou for the advise 👍
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Had mine over 12 years will swap for a 911 when I can afford one 👍
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Good evening everyone.
Is there a buyers guide thread on here to all the details on buying a 987? ie which is the best model to buy, black edition or rs60 etc ? And what to look out for, is the gen 2 free of bore score etc ?
Have owned a 986 for over 12 years but possibly looking for something new.
Thankyou
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7 hours ago, ½cwt said:
Being 997 part numbers they'd be from 2005 at the earliest.
Default would be to swap with BERU ZS178 (BERU is the OE supplier to Porsche) which are the Porsche up issued part, if you look up the original 996 part number 996 602 102 00 until 2002 they point to the BERU ZS177 which is about 3 times the price, but still a third of the Porsche price! The bolt holes are the same depth as the head of the coil (they come with new longer bolts in the box) and are less prone to the cracking shown. Although the torque is very low for the retaining bolts, only 10Nm, so I suspect some of the cracking is overtightening after plug or plug tube O-ring changes.
The new beru ones were metal sleeved in the fixing holes maybe to help prevent this?
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Finally had time to upload these.
These are the front 2 that were causing the misfire.
Quite surprised how little cracks can cause an issue, the other 4 look perfect but replaced all 6 anyway.Is there anyway of knowing how old they are by the part numbers? I’ve had the car over 12years and never changed in my ownership.
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Be very interesting for me and sure everyone here what the total cost is if you don’t mind when you have received it and paid all duties just for reference 👍
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New coils fitted this afternoon now purrs like a kitten!
Thankyou for everyone’s help👍🙏Even cleaned and polished the wheel barrels before refitting the wheels😊
Just to note the front 2 coils only had the tiniest of hairline cracks barely noticeable. The others look perfect , TBH they all look fairly new although I know there not as owned the car for well over 12 years. Was quite surprised!
I possibly may post a picture of one tomorrow.
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Anyone know the torque settings for the front drop links please?
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6 hours ago, charlieboy2608 said:
While your there it would be prudent to change the spark plugs unless you historically have their change date....
Thankyou but they were not long done on its service
Tyres
in 986
Posted
I have 2 sets of wheels one set with Michelin pilot sport N3’s and the other set with Goodyear Asymmetric’s and dare I say it for comfortable road use I prefer the Goodyears and there cheaper !
Sorry to upset the N3 crowd!