StephenM Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 I am suffering from the roof not going into the rain channels when it goes back up. I have looked at the help on https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/convertibletopedgedoesnotfallintoguidech but my roof has been updated at some point as it has the glass rear window and i cant find the tabs and elastic which are referred to in the above article. I have taken a few pictures of the roof and I will be grateful if some one could point me in the right direction please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 Try undoing the 2 torx then flip the metal tang the other way for a bit more tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lonewolfgjp Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 I had a broken tang strip thing on my 986 roof and was causing the lip of the roof not to tuck correctly. Some had codged on up out of a bit of brass strip which was obviously to soft. I ended up making one out of a bit of stainless steel (actually a s steel ruler) but it did the trick and i never had that problem again ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary hubbard Posted November 23, 2017 Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 2 things it can be . The piece of fabric with the Velcro bit sewn to it . 2 3rds the way up on the plastic piping . tighten it up. If the Velcro doesn't work then glue it tighter round the frame. . or it can be the boden cable inside that plastic piping can rust and snap. If its the cable you will have to replace that . if your lucky you can pull it out and fit a new cable. but if there's any cable left in the tube then that a hood off and replace the piping . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomkew Posted November 25, 2017 Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 Hi i had exactly the same issue on my 987 have you tried making the elastic strip a little tighter. They tend to go slack, undo the torque screw that holds it to the hood frame and more the strip along. A bit fiddly but worked straight away for me. The elastic looks like trouser elastic. Some clips on YouTube showing someone doing it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TM987 Posted November 26, 2017 Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 After some research and watching the videos i've just done mine very successfully. If the original Elastic has lost its stretch you simply need new 'Buttonhole elastic' to replace it as follows . . . 1) Sew one end onto the outboard fixing point - that triangle of material, and then cut it to length just longer than the original elastic - and finally trim off the perished original. 2) Undo the T15 attatchment screw inboard on the metal frame a few turns, remove the old and fit the New Elastic in its place under the Washer so ithat doesnt pop off. Note - The new Elastic needs to be Really Slack when the Hood is 1/2 up, and will only tension as the Hood finally closes. I made mine the same length as the (slack) original expecting to have to tension it up but didn't need to - so only tighten the T15 when you're happy with the tension. I'm sure this was the original Elastic on my 987 so its lasted 12 years. I've lent my stubby to my son so had to buy a little 90° Ratchet Driver (£2.85 from The Range) as there's not much room in there. 20 minute job altogether, but Most time is spent Sewing than anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenM Posted November 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 Thank you all for your help. So far I have tried turning the metal pieces around, which did not make any difference. I also tightened the Velcro straps but again this made no difference either. Tomkew and TM987 I have looked for this elastic but cannot find it? I shall see if. Can find a clip on you tube. i did take some more pictures but seem to have run out of space to upload them on here for some reason? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edc Posted November 26, 2017 Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 The other possibility is the roof tension cord itself has snapped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary hubbard Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 On 26/11/2017 at 7:27 PM, StephenM said: Thank you all for your help. So far I have tried turning the metal pieces around, which did not make any difference. I also tightened the Velcro straps but again this made no difference either. Tomkew and TM987 I have looked for this elastic but cannot find it? I shall see if. Can find a clip on you tube. i did take some more pictures but seem to have run out of space to upload them on here for some reason? that's on the 987 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenM Posted December 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 Okay found out how to add images from Igmur Looking at this picture whilst I can see the two Velcro connections I don’t see the elastic one? Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sazzy Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 Hi @StephenM I have been all through this. The later facelift rooves don't have the elastic piece everyone talks about. Believe me, I searched and searched for it until I read that the black tab that you can see just above your finger in your first photo, is what replaced it. Unfortunately for me my problem, after trying everything, was the cable in the piping. Undo the screw at the bottom below the metal tang and see if the cable is taught or if you can pull it. If it moves that's your problem. There's also two tension cables at the rear of the roof on each side that can break so worth checking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moocow Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 We've had the same problem on both sides of our car - a 2001 also with a replacement (glass window) roof. In both cases it was a snapped cable. The problem starts with a bit of a gap and the more we used the roof, the worse it got. A roof specialist familiar with the Boxster should be able to carry out the repair so don't worry too much. We used K Baggs in Poole which is a bit of a trek for us but they have a great reputation, working with Porsche, Ferrari etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenM Posted December 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 Thank you both Sazzy and moocow some really helpful information there, I will start by checking out the wire in the piping and will let you know how I get on. Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crusher Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 i have a 2000 boxster with the later roof addition and mine went like that when i was down the coast on hols...it was the cable had rusted through and snapped halfway in side the black plastic tube...i got a clutch cable from a local bike shop and a 5 amp chocolate block connector from wilkos and joined it up with the original cable at the top of the window as that was as far along as i could get access to without stripping the whole roof back.. been fine since..only did as a temp thing but has been in use for 18 months so not really rushed to refit with a new complete cable to be honest.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenM Posted January 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 Sazzy - you are right, I have un done the cable and on the drivers side it is simply not connected and the passenger side is quite loose. How do I make the connection at the top of the piping please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sazzy Posted January 5, 2018 Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 The problem most likely is that the cable has rusted through and snapped within the piping. Porsche in their wisdom didn't use galvanised metal. Hopefully you can get all of this old cable out and slide a new one in. (I got mine off ebay for £20) To access the eyelet at the top you need to strip some of the roof back, I've tried hard to think how crusher has described how he got acces to his at the top of the window but I just can't see how as its behind the hard black plastic moulding? Unfortuantely the top eyelet is connected to a spring which in turn is shrink wrapped in plastic, which you need to split. I followed this guide to a point : https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/70-BODY-Convertible_Glass_Window/70-BODY-Convertible_Glass_Window.htm The step by step pictures made a somewhat daunting task fairly easy. I took all my own pics when I did it and will try and make a how to on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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