Shazbot Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 So I am doing the clutch, IMS bearing and rms on my 3.2 and being a conscientious amateur I researched the project and ensured I was as well prepared as possible......... I have access to the motor vehicles workshop at the school I drive at. It has two hoists, many tools and most importantly heating, a kettle and a loo. The hoists are the four arm variety as opposed to ramps so the first faff was getting the Boxster in the right position so that the pads on the arms would pick up on the jacking points, easy you say well it took me about four go's achieving various failed combinations of three pads but no way on fourth, two pads but arms too long on shortest setting on other side etc etc. Oh how I laughed. So I surveyed the underside to familiarise myself with the various areas I was going to address and couldn't help but notice that the exhaust appeared to be the original in all areas including the horribly corroded and deformed bolts at all the pipe joints "That'll be ok, I'll saturate everything in magic lube (acetone/ATF mix) and leave it to soak " I reassured myself. So started with the basics, get the roof into service mode, remove the shelf storage, remove the carpet, remove the engine access cover from top and cabin, set the roof cover panel to give more access etc etc. Crikey what a lot of stuff comes off to get access, I had to have a cup of tea to revive myself after that lot. So up goes the hoist and engine oil drained, once the obviously very used drain plug was persuaded out. What is it with people over tightening drain plugs, rounding off the hex so the next owner has to hammer a torx socket in to remove it, I mean they are a couple of quid new at best FFS! So the manual tells you to remove the aluminium bracing to allow removal of the exhaust, "Ok lets have a look, oh hold on the hoist arm pad is covering the end bolt on the lateral brace-bugger!" So lower the car on the hoist so the wheels are just off the ground, get the two (that was lucky) trolley jacks and simultaneously pump the handles to just lift the rear end hoping that the car doesn't flop off the front hoist arms, unlock the rear hoist arms and pull them out of the way remove the bracing bolts, reset the hoist arms and tentatively lower the car off the jacks onto the hoist arm pads, tada!! I think I may get a job juggling plates in a circus after that Raise the car ......again. Right now for the exhaust, crikey those bolts are really, really corroded " I'll give them a tap to loosen all that rusty crud and see what I've got to work with" Bang, bang , bang, oh bollerx. So that will be sod all then. To allow thinking time I removed the rear bumper cover. Lower the hoist-again. So having thought ahead i had left the spoiler in the raised position. First remove the plastic end caps giving access to the tab/clips of the spoiler top, they look a bit fragile but manged to remove the spoiler top without breaking any but it's a bit nerve wracking when you have to use a bit of forceful upwards and rotate to the rear removal pressure. To remove the vertical metal spoiler piece you remove the two hex head bolts coated in lashings and lashings of loctite from the factory, once removed you can gain access to the upper bumper cover screws Raise the car -again Remove the torx head screws and cross head screws (why mix them?) from under the bumper and the cross head screw form under the wheel arch and as the manual says- remove the number plate lights. Well what they should say is remove the two screws from each light, lever the lenses, peel back the rubber cover remove the spade connectors put the light unit to one side and squeeze the rubber cover with wires coming through it into the holes in the bumper. Another cuppa needed. So domestic duties called and morning one concluded. Day One After Action report 1. If contemplating doing anything on your Boxster that needs you to work on the engine or other components that get the full attention of road salt, heat and cold cycles apply copious amounts of your chosen lubricant on all relevant fasteners for at least a day or preferably more 2. Just because its made by Porsche A.G. doesn't mean they will use any quality fasteners from the factory 3. Because it's made by Porsche A.G. means that far more fasteners will be used in areas its not necessary to because they can (e.g. rear bumper cover) 4. Just because you carry out action number 1. does not mean that a fastener will actually unfasten without , ( paraphrase the great of Gunny Highway) improvisation, adaption to overcome. That is all..........for day one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 I think the angle grinder is the preferred tool for removing what's left of the bolts on the exhaust manifold. Pretty rare for them to be in a re-usable state. Have you bought a new set of gaskets for the manifold to exhaust joints? Good luck with the rest of the job. There's a recent thread on by someone doing this on his drive which might be worth a read if you haven't seen it already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golfprorich Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 13 minutes ago, Nobbie said: I think the angle grinder is the preferred tool for removing what's left of the bolts on the exhaust manifold. Pretty rare for them to be in a re-usable state. Have you bought a new set of gaskets for the manifold to exhaust joints? Good luck with the rest of the job. There's a recent thread on by someone doing this on his drive which might be worth a read if you haven't seen it already. Yep that was me, was a fun job. Reciprocating saw and angle grinder are a must To be fair though it was easier and less awkward than doing my Vectra clutch and flywheel which was also a driveway job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rev Ken Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 Sounds like almost every job I've tried! A great read, I'm looking forward to day 2..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golfprorich Posted December 20, 2017 Report Share Posted December 20, 2017 Quote 6 hours ago, Shazbot said: Remove the torx head screws and cross head screws (why mix them?) from under the bumper and the cross head screw form under the wheel arch and as the manual says- remove the number plate lights. Well what they should say is remove the two screws from each light, lever the lenses, peel back the rubber cover remove the spade connectors put the light unit to one side and squeeze the rubber cover with wires coming through it into the holes in the bumper. On mine there was a single plug in the loom that fed both lights behind the bumper that just needed to be unclipped - accessed from when the bumper was away from the car, no faffing about with removing lights etc. Surprised Porsche changed such a simple connection between a 2001 and 2004 car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shippart Posted December 20, 2017 Report Share Posted December 20, 2017 Made me chuckle...!!! Had to use angle grinder on virtually all the fastenings need to be removed from the clutch and flywheel change too! The amount of corrosion and chemical bonding is staggering, even some of the clutch bolts and drive shaft bolts had to be doctored off! Plus a visit from a thread wizard to extract and retap 2 anti roll bar fixings!! Patience is a virtue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bally4563 Posted December 21, 2017 Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 Plus first time you start a job, you end up having to clean up and run out and get unusual size tools .... like 21mm for example. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shazbot Posted December 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 All true. With regard to the bumper and plate lights I couldn't get my hand in, trouble with being part silverback. The number of outrageously corroded bolts was immense. I wanted to change the exhaust manifolds and back box, and having read about the propensity for the bolts to break I got on them with a gas axe and 4 yes that's 4 of the 12 still snapped off. At this point I may have sworn quite a lot. I can however highly recommend the Laser Tools stud extractor (3986) as long as you have enough to grab on and enough room for it to fit it rocks, I know.... Despite having a gearbox lift , one of the pump up ones with a four pronged plate, I still ended up putting my shoulder under the gearbox to get it level enough to line up the input shaft. Note to self , you're old, fat and got a knackered back so get a helper next time! All the stuff that should line up didn't, cue more swearing so it took far longer than planned. As for the IMS bearing it turns out my car has the later type ( not replaceable without splitting the engine) with the 22mm nut , which is a sign to say LTFA. So if anyone wants to buy a Pelican parts IMS replacement kit (utterly unused) imported from the US of A , fits dual and single row also comes with a modified stud (marked LN engineering) feel free to PM me and part with £200. Apparently something called C-H-R-I-S-T-M-A-S happens soon so I have been dad taxi/ wife's taxi/ grandad taxi etc etc so I have grabbed a couple of hours here and there each day. Luckily the school is shut so it's been ok to come and go. Still haven't finished as I need to get the bracing and under shields back on, put new oil in and see if it goes bang! Have to wait a couple of days as I am apparently banned from-Quote ; " Working on that bloody car again" So it is all pretty straight forward ( prepare for corroded fasteners , inaccuracies in tech' information provided online and a proper mix of fixing sizes and required removal tools). I would warn anyone working under a raised 986 that the heat shield under the rear is actually sharper than it looks and is, given the inattention of a dopey old car bodger, capable of giving you a partial scalping when you don't on just one occasion wear your woolly hat to stop your baldy pate from getting skinned/battered. May have some pics to put up soon, possibly the car on fire as I realise I have completely furked it all up. That is all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shazbot Posted December 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 Forgot operational protocols- After Action report day 2 1. Attempting to drill out snapped, exhaust manifold bolts is a waste of time without an ability to drill vertically and be willing to swallow steel particles or possessing the ability to centre punch the little buggers in the centre. 2. When something is driving you so mental you almost want to kill the car, walk away and have a brew, calm down and think it through. 3. Hex cap bolts, Allen bolts to you and me, are realistically single use. Or they are after some ham fisted so called technician has previously been let loose on them with a windy gun and little skill or mechanical sympathy. 4. Stepping on a paint pen (used to mark when a bolt or fastener has been torqued up, especially helpful when you are old and forgetful) will create a mess far greater than that pen's apparent volume of paint should be capable of. 5. Despite what your parents told you swearing is good, when aimed at inanimate objects affixed to or being replaced on a vehicle. Very cathartic. That, is all...... for today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Keep up the good work? Your experiences have an altogether too familiar sound to them. Bet your hands are in a right state as well. Good news on the upgraded IMS bearing, I have learnt that it's best to let sleeping dogs lie and if I changed the IMS myself, I would be just as paranoid about having done it wrong and it failing as I would of having the original failing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golfprorich Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Sounds like you had fun Think I got away lightly when I did mine. I had no intention of changing IMS bearing, my engine was built by Hartech about 35k ago so I was more than happy to leave it. Enjoy the festivities and get back on it in a few days ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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