Rear Lid Not Closed.....?

[JayGee]

Has anyone come across the "Rear Lid Not Closed" dash message before. The lid is definitely closed and sits level with the rest of the surrounding bodywork. I have tried adjusting the lid bump stops up and down and it makes not difference to how the lids sits regardless of whether the roof is up or down. Roof operation doesn't seem to have been affected in anyway, it still goes up and down smoothly.

As you would expect I get a single chirp from the alarm when the car locks as it thinks something is open. Pushing the stalk away removes the message which is replaced by an exclamation mark warning in the centre dial.

Any advice, known fixes would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[red rocket]

16 minutes ago, JayGee said:

Has anyone come across the "Rear Lid Not Closed" dash message before. The lid is definitely closed and sits level with the rest of the surrounding bodywork. I have tried adjusting the lid bump stops up and down and it makes not difference to how the lids sits regardless of whether the roof is up or down. Roof operation doesn't seem to have been affected in anyway, it still goes up and down smoothly.

As you would expect I get a single chirp from the alarm when the car locks as it thinks something is open. Pushing the stalk away removes the message which is replaced by an exclamation mark warning in the centre dial.

Any advice, known fixes would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Are you adjusting the clamshell? Think it's the boot that's open.

[Paul P]

There’s a micro switch in the latch - suspect that’s gummed up or broken - I *think* its replaceable on its own but i would suggest a good drink of wd40 and a few open shut operations.

Would also probably keep the interior light in the boot on - set your phone to record video and close it in the boot - see if the light goes out.

If it is staying on , that kind of re-enforces the switch diagnosis - and you might want to pull the bulb until its fixed in case it kills the battery. 

[JayGee]

Thanks guys, I hadn't thought about the boot. Perhaps reading the message too literally being the lid and not the boot or trunk. I'll have a go at the WD40 and recording suggestion and let you know.

Thanks

[JayGee]

So tried the WD40 to no avail. Re affirmed Paul P suspicion with the recording of the boot light and can confirm that the boot light does stay on. 

Anybody know the microswitch part number please. and guidance to remove.

Thanks

[Paul P]

19 minutes ago, JayGee said:

So tried the WD40 to no avail. Re affirmed Paul P suspicion with the recording of the boot light and can confirm that the boot light does stay on. 

Anybody know the microswitch part number please. and guidance to remove.

Thanks

I have a feeling the switch is not a seperate part - I *think* its part of this assembly https://www.design911.co.uk/pages/productList.aspx?search=98751205301 - you might find if you remove the trim parts around the latch that you can get closer to it and try the wd40 again (or confirm the wiring is connected etc.) before getting into £160 + vat territory (probably cheaper direct from Porsche )

 

[JayGee]

Thanks Paul,

Just had the trim off removed the latch itself. Everything was plugged in ok. WD40'd again and was able to manually activate the latch lock and activate the microswitch with dash warning being displayed. Warning message stayed on regardless. I could hear the microswitch clicking away with not change to the message.

That is the part number but will try eBay first.

Cheers

[Paul P]

Hmm.  Is it worth trying to bridge out the switch just to prove it. Or meter the switch to make sure it’s not working.  If it clicks then I would “expect” it to work 

i guess just pulling the connector will tell you if the dashboard light goes out. 

[JayGee]

Pulling the connector made no difference as the warning was there. I have managed to find a used replacement on eBay for a few quid. See if that does the trick.

 

[JayGee]

So the saga continues. Managed to get hold of a second hand latch and microswitch which I swapped out this morning and surprise, surprise no change.

Rear trunk light stays on and the dash warning is still there.

Ran through Paul P's suggestions-

1 - Bridged the cable - Warning and Light issue remain

2 - Tested power to the cable - All OK

3 - WD40 and cycled the latch mechanism a few times - Warning and Trunk Light issue remain

4 - Unplugged the microswitch - Warning and Trunk Light issue remain

5 - Refitted old latch and microswitch and re did 3&4 above - Warning and Trunk Light issue remain

6 - Checked both latch microswitches for operation manually and while fitted and the cam that turns when you close the lock turns and closes the microswitch

So I either have two dodgy switches or something else is the issue. Just to rule out the following, in cabin sill release works, remote key release works. So I have a locking and unlocking trunk with light disconnected, no problem, but a dash warning and single beeping horn when I lock the car. I'm now scratching my head, I would have thought bridging the cable or unplugging the switch would turn off the warning but it didn't. The frunk works as expected, open the front you get a warning, close it and it goes off immediately so I would guess its not a message that needs to be cleared by any diagnostic system.

BTW, you can remove the microswitch cable from the latch mechanism. Shame they don't sell this as a separate part, it would only be a few quid.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Richard Hamilton]

The rear compartment light and microswitch connect directly to the rear control unit under the passenger seat (RHD).  Any dampness under there?

[JayGee]

58 minutes ago, Richard Hamilton said:

The rear compartment light and microswitch connect directly to the rear control unit under the passenger seat (RHD).  Any dampness under there?

Nope, dry's a bone

[Paul P]

Check the plugs at the rcu end.  (Under the left hand seat) perhaps all good in the boot but the rcu isn’t seeing the signal. 

[JayGee]

Thanks, Will check for connection on the RCU. I have only had the car 6 months and has been garaged since. No telling if it has been flooded in the past till i get in there.

Are these a repairable part, if so anyone know of a company that repairs them? If not, are they plug and play or do they need programming to the car?

Thanks

[Paul P]

You can open the box. If it’s been wet in the past you will see “fur”. It’s obvious when you see it. 

Might be repairable since it has relays and they can stick but it seems that they are always a weakness if they have got wet. I don’t know of anyone repairing in the U.K. 

Replacement from Porsche is about £300. Needs to be coded to the car (so it knows it has a pop up spoiler and that it has a convertible roof - same module goes in a 997 and a cayman) 

An Indy or an enthusiast with PIWIS can code it. 

[JayGee]

OK...Update time.

So checked all the carpets and they were dry as expected. So I removed the seat and I was surprised to say the least, underneath the cover for the RCU and Park assist unit was a plastic bag wrapped and tied around the RCU.😱 Worse still it was a Bendix washing machine bag. So with suspicions raised I removed the RCU from the bag, nothing too apparent from the outside all looked clean, dry, no condensation which was a fear from it being in the bag. Took the RCU apart and there is corrosion to the pins on the inside as well as where these join the PCB. This was for the big middle plug. Can anyone confirm that they would expect the rear lid error to come from the middle plug on the RCU. So a quick clean up inside and out and back together. 

So i'm guessing that it has been flooded in the past, hence the plastic bag. Before I go on anymore about the little known "special" boxster optional extra, does anybody else keep their RCU in a bag for flood prevention purposes?

While there I took the carpet up at the rear and although dry on top the sponge was damp. Which was a shock as I keep the drain holes clear after reading owners woes. and it doesn't go out in the rain

Anyway, dried up as best as possible just to put everything back together and test. Issues still persists so guess its the RCU. Shopping list updated...

Thanks All,

 

 

[Richard Hamilton]

On the wiring diagram, the plugs are labelled A, B, & C.  The actuator and microswitch are connected to plug A, so I doubt if it is the middle one.

 

[JayGee]

Thanks Richard, Really useful, I'll check the wire colouring.

Doesn't the A,B,C mean the pin rows in the plug rather than the plugs themselves?

[Paul P]

If there’s still water getting in it may be a hole in the drip tray sometimes if the roof rods have broken then they can punch a hole in the try. 

[JayGee]

Thanks Paul, I'll check this as well. I take it you referring to... Part No. 98756180501the green one below.

[Richard Hamilton]

1 hour ago, JayGee said:

Thanks Richard, Really useful, I'll check the wire colouring.

Doesn't the A,B,C mean the pin rows in the plug rather than the plugs themselves?

The A B or C is the plug, and the number is the pin number, so A19 is plug A, pin 19.

[Paul P]

Yup. That’s the one ( well two - one each side )