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2008 Boxster 987 alignment toe in spec?


phazed

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Just replaced a couple of suspension components.

 I have a simple set of tracking Gauges and have checked to see if the basic setup is correct.

As far as I can see within the capabilities of my  gauges it seems that I have half a degree of toe in. I know that these cannot be 100% correct but they have been as near as dammit when checked on my own TVR and then checked with the computer alignment system.

Question is, does anyone know what the settings should be? 

 

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Half a degree is way too much. From memory it should be around 0 to 5 minutes toe in. Half a degree is 30 minutes. 

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You are correct.

Just received this from my son who is an AA patrolman.

looks like it should be -10 minutes with a full tank of fuel for models with the sports adaptive suspension.

I believe my local village garage with computer alignment equipment is still operating so will book up a quick check.

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Those figures are per axle. Mine were let corner of each wheel so basically the same. 

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I think with the amount of toe in you ha e you'll get to a corner, turn the wheel and wonder why the car is unresponsive. I suspect it might be quite jittery around the straight ahead too. 

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 Recommended toe in is only 10 minutes, one sixth of a degree so practically neutral in my eyes.

I will get it set at that and have the camber checked at the same time.

thanks all.
 

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The autodata stuff is the factory range. Nothing wrong with that but very tweakable from that as a base. 

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Meaning just like much of anything on the car you can modify it or leave it as it left the factory. 

What you want or like may not be the same and my car is a 986 but the fundamental balance and geo of the cars is the same. I've been modifying across 2 986 since 2012 but I prefer more negative camber on the front over standard. As standard the cars tend to run half to one degree more negative camber on the rear. At one point I had more negative camber on the front than the rear but am now settled at pretty much the same front to back at -2 degrees rather than the near -2.5 that had been up front. If your car is track focussed and you are a committed track driver then -2.5 won't cut it and you're in the realms of even more adjustable suspension parts to get more camber. 

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Thanks EDC.

Even though I have done scores of TDs I’m not sure yet about tracking the box, it seems far too nice a car :)

 

Graham, ?

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11 hours ago, phazed said:

Thanks EDC.

Even though I have done scores of TDs I’m not sure yet about tracking the box, it seems far too nice a car :)

 

Graham, ?

I have decided I am not tracking the 996 unless I change the sump and that isn't likely to happen.

Re spacing, you number plate between the HP looks different on the car from memory to in the screenshot. The 9 might even look like a g..

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I had a full geometry check at my local garage yesterday. I made sure before the car went in there all adjusters, nuts and bolts were not seized.

I had it all set up as standard.  Drove a few miles home and given the circumstances it all seemed exactly the same! 

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On 4/13/2020 at 7:09 PM, PaulQ said:

Excessive front toe in definitely kills the steering feel on my 986.

I would aim for zero, but a smidge of toe out makes for a lovely turn in feel imo. 

 

Yep, my Son and I owned two essentially identical Caymans a while ago.  Same 18" wheel size, same N rated PS2 tyres, mine had PASM, his didn't.  The turn in on his was oh so sweet in comparison, even after I had mine set up by my OPC to max out the front negative camber and zero toe after a suspension rebuild, all settings identical side to side. 

We had his car, with 90+K, no suspension work and the odd clunk, measured on a Hunter machine and the settings were within the factory specs (apart from toe) but not consistent side to side.  But it was so sweet, the best turn in on any of the 10 Porsches we've owned between us.  I can only conclude it was due to the toe out.

It was really annoying to be honest, but the price he paid was inside edge front tyre wear.  Straight line stability was a little compromised but not a problem.  

This was just one of the surprising differences we found in owning and driving two virtually identical cars in parallel, and highlighted just how sensitive they are to very minor differences in setup.   

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I think the alignment is one of the most overlooked aspects in getting the best out of any car, even more so on a performance orientated one. 

I expect many newer cars have never even seen an alignment shop. 

Yes, inner tyre wear was a bit of an issue. Binned mine at approx 3-4mm, and while straight line stability was a bit on the fidgety side, it wasn't too bad at all tbh. 

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It is and most people are hung up on factory spec presuming it is the best. Personally I think a good geo is not just getting it green and in spec but identical or as close as you can get it across the axle. You can have all 4 wheels pointing at different angles and even opposite to each other and still be in spec. 

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