SuperPaulie Posted September 26, 2020 Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 Can anyone confirm if this door latch will do the job on my driver's door? Window not moving at all on entry, then hell on when you turn the ignition. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DXS9N36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_WHOBFbPCAQ78E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike597 Posted September 26, 2020 Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 7 hours ago, SuperPaulie said: Can anyone confirm if this door latch will do the job on my driver's door? Window not moving at all on entry, then hell on when you turn the ignition. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DXS9N36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_WHOBFbPCAQ78E I don't think so, not without seeing the currently fitted lock. There are two types one with nine pins and one with eight. We've seen different cars use different ones and it doesn't seem to be completely predictable as to which version is fitted. For example my car uses the eight pin from a golf IV but others with older models have the golf V nine pin. I'd say its a fair chance it will be fine given you have a late model but if you don't want to disassemble first then ensure you can return it just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shazbot Posted September 26, 2020 Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 E-katalog shows part number (9 pin) 8N2 837 016 B, which is Audi TT (golf V will fit but you may need to trim a plastic part). Part you have listed will work based on your sig showing '02 986. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperPaulie Posted September 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 Thanks Gentleman. Yeah I have the 02. So that's 1-1! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperPaulie Posted September 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 Yep, defo a 9 pin. 02 986 2.7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperPaulie Posted September 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 Well this is fun! http://imgur.com/a/rSEdjoQ A slight touch on the housing for the connector sends the signal to lower the window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperPaulie Posted September 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 after the above, it was surely a dry joint or wiring issue. I opened up the mechanism and then resoldered alll the joints and it seems to work! For now at least, we'll see. Cheers guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacificjuha Posted September 26, 2020 Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 6 hours ago, SuperPaulie said: Well this is fun! http://imgur.com/a/rSEdjoQ A slight touch on the housing for the connector sends the signal to lower the window. I had the same issue on my right side door. The problem was that with previous owner there had had some access of water in to the doorway and water had also somehow entered in to the same wireing harness connector that you touched. I opened the connector, cleaned all contact pins with electronic cleaner, let it dry real well and put it back together - did not need to open the latch mechanism. All window problems has been gone now roughly 3 months - regardless of some major rain storm weather driving (Boxster is my daily driver during summer). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperPaulie Posted September 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2020 Good news! Yeah I cleaned it all with contact cleaner but it was still the same. So I pulled it out and it looked like a few solder points were a bit suspect. I mean a £20 new latch isn't bad at all, but nice to be able to fix things. The latch main microswitch looked ok to me as well, and it looks easy to just replace those with new ones if you could find them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gIzzE Posted September 30, 2020 Report Share Posted September 30, 2020 I know you have sorted it now, but that door lock actuator was completely wrong anyway, nowhere for the lock barrel to go on it. I bought the VW one with a lock barrel built in last week, fitted it all, tested it a couple of times and then closed the door and.......nothing. The door wouldn't open. It took me around 4 hours of research online followed by another 2 hours to get the door open. The actuator was completely stuck. In the end I took apart the old one to see where everything was, removed the door handle to access the actuator from there, drilled a hole through it, put in a large screwdriver and hit it hard with a hammer, the door popped open. It seems after research a few had the same issue. I ordered another one that was made for the 986 etc. and you could see slight differences in where the plastic tabs move around and you could see where the VW could get caught on the door frame and seize. What should have been an hours job turned into a nightmare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperPaulie Posted September 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2020 Yeah you're right, always better to remove your actual part to double check. I read that you need to remove a plastic section on the VW part to stop it fouling up, I guess that was your findings as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gIzzE Posted September 30, 2020 Report Share Posted September 30, 2020 I had read the top bit of it needed removing, which makes sense looking at it next to the oem one, but reality is it can still catch the inside of the door frame. There is also a spring that comes fitted that helps keep the mech open while installing, this can also stop the mech going all the way back, it doesn't allow you to do anything if it doesn't go all the way back, so if anyone uses that actuator, make sure you remove that spring. This image shows the bit needed for the door lock barrel, white bit at top. Also shows where I had to drill to put the screwdriver in to smack it open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvw Posted October 1, 2020 Report Share Posted October 1, 2020 On 9/26/2020 at 12:55 PM, SuperPaulie said: Well this is fun! http://imgur.com/a/rSEdjoQ A slight touch on the housing for the connector sends the signal to lower the window. Thanks for posting this, I have a similar issue. Window drops when I pull the handle and then sometimes goes back up when the door opens. If I shut the door (slowly) the window hits the roof and immediately drops again allowing me to shut the door. It's like some sort of polite ritual I have to go through, like I'm asking permission to shut the door lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperPaulie Posted October 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2020 i would defo start by resoldering the points, whats the worst that could happen. I read that you could flow the joints via the pins on the connector without opening it up, but it wasnt a big deal opening up the actuator to be truthful. Getting it back in was the real pain... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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