Sanky Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Anyone replaced there exhaust themselves. Just contemplating doing the job myself. Any tips or advice? a diy guide would be perfect, car is facelift if that matters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninesomething Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 How many cuss words do you know? Might be worth brushing up on some new ones. Seriously you might well need an angle grinder and a blow torch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanky Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 2 minutes ago, JonSta said: How many cuss words do you know? Might be worth brushing up on some new ones. Seriously you might well need an angle grinder and a blow torch. Angle grinder I have, I am planning on replacing everything apart from one CAT the other one was replaced not to long ago. Is the back just attached with 2 bolts on the gearbox end Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
some bloke Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Check out this thread: I found it a lot easier taking the bumper off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanky Posted March 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 18 hours ago, some bloke said: Check out this thread: I found it a lot easier taking the bumper off. Thanks, think I’m just going to get the garage to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
½cwt Posted March 8, 2021 Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 Getting rusty manifold bolts out of the heads....? This has cause a few issues over the years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizz Posted March 9, 2021 Report Share Posted March 9, 2021 Presume you have seen this? Deffo garage job... Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRC Posted March 9, 2021 Report Share Posted March 9, 2021 I bumped into those bolts and they truly seem undrillable ....... perhaps a cobalt drill might do it ? Mine literally had NO NUTS AT ALL left on the bolts and it was only the corrosion that was holding the two flanges together and it certainly did a good job as there were no leaks at all from the flanges. The trick is to use serious heat and life gets a lot easier. Grind off the ends of the bolts protruding from the flanges, then with a small oxy - acetylene brazing torch (Mapp Gas should do), play the flame onto the ends of the stud bolts until they are starting to glow. then quench with a water spray and on both of mine, the corrosion immediately broke and the flanges could be separated. Without the heat, I think I would still be drilling now, but I wouldn't want to try it laid on my back with the car on axle stands though ....... Haven't had to venture near the manifold studs yet thankfully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 On 3/8/2021 at 10:01 PM, ½cwt said: Getting rusty manifold bolts out of the heads....? This has cause a few issues over the years. Are there any tips for these bolts, I was thinking maybe one of the below might 🤓 ?penetrating fluid for a few weeks before ?heat [if so where, presume on head] and quench technique ?is warmed engine better than cold ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deanmr2 Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 52 minutes ago, Dubdubz said: Are there any tips for these bolts, I was thinking maybe one of the below might 🤓 ?penetrating fluid for a few weeks before ?heat [if so where, presume on head] and quench technique ?is warmed engine better than cold ? When I done mine I used a recip saw to cut off the rusty nuts tight to the flange (the end pointing to the front of car) I then used a sturdy punch and a heavy hammer and knocked the studs out of the flange holes. I also used loads of plus gas giving the stud end a good soaking every day for a week before I attempted the job and to my surprise they came out fairly early. Note that it is not nuts and bolts that are used to couple the flanges it is actually studs that are press fitted into the flange nearest the exhaust back box with nuts on the other end.Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubdubz Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 35 minutes ago, deanmr2 said: When I done mine I used a recip saw to cut off the rusty nuts tight to the flange (the end pointing to the front of car) I then used a sturdy punch and a heavy hammer and knocked the studs out of the flange holes. I also used loads of plus gas giving the stud end a good soaking every day for a week before I attempted the job and to my surprise they came out fairly early. Note that it is not nuts and bolts that are used to couple the flanges it is actually studs that are press fitted into the flange nearest the exhaust back box with nuts on the other end.Hope this helps it does thank you - I am less worried about the flange studs and nuts and more about the manifold to head bolts - apparently a reknowned area of failure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 2 hours ago, Dubdubz said: Are there any tips for these bolts, I was thinking maybe one of the below might 🤓 ?penetrating fluid for a few weeks before ?heat [if so where, presume on head] and quench technique ?is warmed engine better than cold ? I think the problems are more common on the 986 which have had more time to corrode in place. When I did mine the nuts had mostly perished and about half of the studs just snapped due to corrosion and I had to drill them out with an M35 cobalt steel drill and then re-tap. If the nuts are in decent shape I would try it cold after using penetrating fluid the night before. Best to use a long breaker bar. Not to apply massive force, but to enable you to control a decent force on them long enough for the corrosion to yield. I suspect warming the engine would expand the manifold and maybe hold the nut on tighter as well as burning off the penetrating fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the baron Posted March 11, 2021 Report Share Posted March 11, 2021 Game of bloody knuckles anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shazbot Posted March 11, 2021 Report Share Posted March 11, 2021 If you're doing the headers , take it to a garage as they'll have an induction heater for the manifold bolts which will shear! Rest of it is doable with a slitting disc, hammer and punch for the cat to header pipe flange bolts and as said by others a breaker bar and six sided sockets. Back box can come out without removing the rear bumper its just a little fiddly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanky Posted March 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 I was only replacing one of the CAT's and the back box, not the manifolds. The triangle joints have been separated before when the IMS was done, so that shouldn't be an issue. Last question, should I use exhaust paste on the joints or fit them dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRC Posted March 12, 2021 Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 I had to use paste on the "sliding tube inside another tube" fittings on the rear,mainly due to the slits in the connecting pieces, but the three bolt triangular flanges have a gasket that doesn't need any paste. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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