Topbox Posted January 18, 2023 Report Share Posted January 18, 2023 On 1/14/2023 at 9:38 PM, iborguk said: 2 Cteks here, used on 3 Boxsters (and other fleet cars - no Rolls Royce alas) over 4 years on the ciggy lighter connections and cable through the bottom of the door. No issues to date. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alank Posted January 26, 2023 Report Share Posted January 26, 2023 Lidl for 4 years now, 🙂 £13 last week in my local Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxsum Posted January 26, 2023 Report Share Posted January 26, 2023 (edited) 18 minutes ago, alank said: Lidl for 4 years now, 🙂 £13 last week in my local I’ve been using the Aldi equivalent until yesterday after seeing someone test one whilst charging. It seemed to overcharge. (worth a search on YouTube) Edited January 26, 2023 by Boxsum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted January 27, 2023 Report Share Posted January 27, 2023 This one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted January 27, 2023 Report Share Posted January 27, 2023 I've got the Red One from Lidl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Days Posted January 27, 2023 Report Share Posted January 27, 2023 Just drive it more... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxsum Posted January 28, 2023 Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 21 hours ago, ATM said: This one? No, it’s the one where the guy tests the new one against the old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kersh Posted February 2, 2023 Report Share Posted February 2, 2023 On 1/13/2023 at 4:54 PM, Stujoed said: Thanks for feedback and contributions. next question is can anyone share a link for an effective but reasonable Bluetooth battery monitor that has actually worked for them. I have this BM2 battery monitor fitted to the car and my bikes. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165816548318?hash=item269b6fbbde:g:w1YAAOSwI0ZjjnvM&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8L4mxDotg3U%2F8rVMRgFyQcyoX2sLmRaTQ9MKElzc4SiN2NbESUPWMsO33g7aESSYfH2KgUeVVvO5EFrhsAR5bf2KjKJ%2BBzNKEU9wtvVxPBv6ShE1MPhLssZ7qHAka32lQbvl2xQRPIE%2BRMYmToWag3WE9gC5%2BNHDaKzAkTXlhuo1FNiLw4f3nihxSZCm1%2BlSMMopK9HEQlMG7%2BqHso3TpBwFVb8%2BeZ8%2BBelcuplIW4mGa6axSlDmTkT2eQNMKgp9Gg7Ex4AyGW615swl6qYaprsKtPqqm9q6h9F3bmEcd%2BAFgxLjfvVA0%2FDnl7J78gdGQA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMkPv2rcJh It's been on the Porsche for at least 18 months now, not given me any trouble. As regards to battery drain, I've never noticed it an issue on the bikes, and they have a lot smaller batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATM Posted February 10, 2023 Report Share Posted February 10, 2023 On 2/2/2023 at 4:07 PM, Kersh said: I have this BM2 battery monitor fitted to the car and my bikes. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165816548318?hash=item269b6fbbde:g:w1YAAOSwI0ZjjnvM&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8L4mxDotg3U%2F8rVMRgFyQcyoX2sLmRaTQ9MKElzc4SiN2NbESUPWMsO33g7aESSYfH2KgUeVVvO5EFrhsAR5bf2KjKJ%2BBzNKEU9wtvVxPBv6ShE1MPhLssZ7qHAka32lQbvl2xQRPIE%2BRMYmToWag3WE9gC5%2BNHDaKzAkTXlhuo1FNiLw4f3nihxSZCm1%2BlSMMopK9HEQlMG7%2BqHso3TpBwFVb8%2BeZ8%2BBelcuplIW4mGa6axSlDmTkT2eQNMKgp9Gg7Ex4AyGW615swl6qYaprsKtPqqm9q6h9F3bmEcd%2BAFgxLjfvVA0%2FDnl7J78gdGQA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMkPv2rcJh It's been on the Porsche for at least 18 months now, not given me any trouble. As regards to battery drain, I've never noticed it an issue on the bikes, and they have a lot smaller batteries. What's the range like? I have something like this in my Camper van and you need to be right next to the van to get the signal from the Bluetooth. I think its the lower energy system by design. I'm not saying I'm lazy but I'd rather get the info from inside the house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freeman Posted February 11, 2023 Report Share Posted February 11, 2023 This one https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/streetwize-15a-trickle-charger/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Hi, I am posting on this thread as I feel it is likely related. (Battery) My 987.1 can reset the clock and fuel gauge on start up, can cause issues where I fill up at the petrol station on low, get back in start the engine and the display goes blank then reverts to the previous fuel level, which results in the car telling me that it is empty when I know it is at least half full. I changed the battery last year with mixed results, and I am keeping it on the trickle charger, could it be the ignition, I can start the car by turning the ignition 1/2, 3/4 or all the way? Is this normal? Or is the cluster a usual fail point? Cannot see any other threads with this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 I would test the voltage of the battery with a multimeter. If you get a sensible voltage then that’s eliminated from your fault list. If you want a better check for the battery then these type of testers are even better and give you a health report. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Car-Van-Load-Battery-Tester-Digital-Analyzer-Diagnostic-Tool-LCD-100-2000CCA/254950835888 Your fault doesn’t read like a battery problem though; perhaps its the ignition switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Thanks BBB, can I ask when you start the car do you turn the key as far as it will go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul P Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Mine is a definite " all the way" to get the starter to spin - there's not a lot in it between run and start - perhaps 1/8 of a turn past run to full travel and "start". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxer boy Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Voltmeter on the batt before starting . Voltmeter on the batt after starting and blipping it a few times over 2 K rpm to excite the alternator.If the alternator works you should see a rise in V to around 14.5 or more . How olds the poly belt ? When was the last time you opened up the inspection hatch ( behind the seats ) and checked the tensioner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxer boy Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Yours won’t have a broken bolt .This gives you an idea .Odd the new batts dying like the old one . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Posted March 26, 2023 Report Share Posted March 26, 2023 Hi Boxer boy thanks for your help, it’s running at around 13v before starting, and then no problem when driving so assuming the alternator is charging the battery, it always starts it just robs power to the instrument cluster at ignition which resets the clock and fuel gauge. The previous owner has spliced a cable into the electrics for a sat nav/dash cam which I am going to remove at some point was wondering if its shorting at ignition? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxer boy Posted March 26, 2023 Report Share Posted March 26, 2023 1 hour ago, Dirk said: Hi Boxer boy thanks for your help, it’s running at around 13v before starting, and then no problem when driving so assuming the alternator is charging the battery, it always starts it just robs power to the instrument cluster at ignition which resets the clock and fuel gauge. The previous owner has spliced a cable into the electrics for a sat nav/dash cam which I am going to remove at some point was wondering if its shorting at ignition? Arh ! It’s been molested .Putting it back to std would be a good thing to begin with in reaching a diagnosis. I assumed it was std . Even so alternators can pack in or not give out enough charge and the light stays off ( depending on the fault(s) .So don’t rely on no dash light = alternator stuffing charge in = ok at that end . Your 13 v is simply a reflection of the trickle charger having topped it up prior to starting . You still needs to see 14.5 v +++on the batt terminals up from 13 v when it running if only to eliminate any alternator hassle . low V play silly tricks with modern ECU s running cars = cause many spurious electrotwackery/ dash glitches often intermittently. I would do the alternator test first then put the molested wiring back to std . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Posted March 26, 2023 Report Share Posted March 26, 2023 Thanks, will get hold of a multimeter next week and see what I get, the battery was a decent make (Bosch) and only 1.5 year old was just wondering if people on here who have had battery/ alternator issues also had this happen.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 Hi it’s reading around 12.5 volts when off and then goes to 14.5 when running. Had a look at the cable but it comes up through the windscreen air vents so bigger job then I thought likely get to it via taking the pcm out which I’d rather not do. Took a video off what is happening and will see if I can upload it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobbie Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 (edited) Faulty ignition switches on these are quite common and manifest in various weird ways. The fact that yours starts from 1/3 and 3/4 way on the switch indicates something strange is going on. That’s not right. Plenty of threads on changing them if you search. Here’s one Edited March 27, 2023 by Nobbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxer boy Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 2 hours ago, Dirk said: Hi it’s reading around 12.5 volts when off and then goes to 14.5 when running. Had a look at the cable but it comes up through the windscreen air vents so bigger job then I thought likely get to it via taking the pcm out which I’d rather not do. Took a video off what is happening and will see if I can upload it. Great this eliminates the alternator and spurious low battery voltage issues from a dud batt . So focus on the switch knowing money spent on this isn’t via a parts shotgun approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul P Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 I agree on the ignition switch as the the next “place to go” it there is also this as a consideration of that doesn’t solve the problem. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10056330-2400.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Posted March 27, 2023 Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 Hi all thanks for the help, I agree it looks like switch is the way to go next although just had a quick search and design 911 want £400+ for the switch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1flyguy Posted March 28, 2023 Report Share Posted March 28, 2023 12 hours ago, Dirk said: Hi all thanks for the help, I agree it looks like switch is the way to go next although just had a quick search and design 911 want £400+ for the switch! WTAF !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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