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986 Window drop issues… again


Triops

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2001 3.2S

Problem window SOMETIMES not dropping on opening, mostly if not always when opening from outside after parking up and locking. Not a problem driving normally, seems to only happen after I’ve locked it and return later say half an hour or days later after it’s gone to sleep. I’ve also noticed occasional beeping on locking, but not always. Reopening and closing doors and boot lids seems to sort. 

Any thoughts on what to do and in what order. I know these cars suffer from this a lot. I don’t mind blanket replacing stuff if it’s not crazy money. I love this car but it’s trying to break me mentally!!

Help… Please!!

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Driver's door latch module micro switches are playing up most likely.  The toot from the alarm is something is not registered as closed when setting the alarm.  You can try contact cleaner but here's the parts listing, which are VAG pars so commonly available.  Audi TT Mk1 cabrio is equivalent.

Tsty0s8.jpg 

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1 hour ago, Triops said:

Also if I do this are there any pegs or bits that are likely to break when taking the door trim off?

8N2 837 016 or 8N2 837 016B  You will need a spline tool to release the lock and a flexible hand to get inside the door to unplug the loom.  The door trim clips can break, like may Porsche plastic parts they have a bit of a suicidal tendency.  Clips are 999 507 582 40.  Check all the screws (combination of crosshead, Torx T25 and 4mm Allen hex), there's a plastic screw in the door bin (crosshead), a small screw behind the internal release lever (crosshead), one behind the AIRBAG insert (Allen) in the air bag cover (these are awkward to get out without damaging the leather or the actual cover), two in the long door handle bar (torx), (one under the small silver collar and one under the door handle release trim).  It is worth investing in a set of plastic trim removal tools if you haven't got a set already, like these: 11 Pcs Car Trim Removal Pry Tool Molding Kit Panel Door Dash Interior Clip Set | eBay , pop all the plastic rivets and lift the card out of the top channel after releasing the triangle cover for the mirror (pull out the bottom edge and slide up to release the tab at the top) and remembering to disconnect the loom bits to the door handle and courtesy light and the door cable release.

Also some butyl tape, draw it out into a long cord about 3 to 4mm in diameter to apply it not as the thick strip it come in, for re-sticking the door membrane, take care not to tear this.  Westspark 13.1ft 4M 8mm Butyl Rubber Sealant Sound Deadening Rope Caulk Tape for Car RV Windshield Headlight Door Black : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

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Consider pealing back only the top of the waterproof membrane (on the lock side) sufficient to do the work. This avoids disturbing the bottom 6 or so inches of the waterproof membrane which is the most important area for avoiding leaks (assuming it's not already leaking!).

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Great advice / help, thanks. Just come home in the rain after a 30 mile journey. You wouldn’t know there was a problem. Yet earlier on when I started it up after 7 days. It was really playing me up. It’s always like this, windows mess around initially then later on in the trip behave themselves. Guaranteed if I go back to it in a few days it will behave in the same manner… anyway thanks for the detailed help and advice 

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11 hours ago, Triops said:

Great advice / help, thanks. Just come home in the rain after a 30 mile journey. You wouldn’t know there was a problem. Yet earlier on when I started it up after 7 days. It was really playing me up. It’s always like this, windows mess around initially then later on in the trip behave themselves. Guaranteed if I go back to it in a few days it will behave in the same manner… anyway thanks for the detailed help and advice 

You may have the same issue as me.  It seems that the connector plug on mine is faulty so in some positions it works fine.  I used a cable tie to secure it into a position that works most the time.  Although it has now stopped again.  I believe I need a different, harder to find 8 pin type.  Still from a TT I believe.  I should just steal the one off my TT mk1 I have stored away!!

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3 minutes ago, Daboy3000 said:

You may have the same issue as me.  It seems that the connector plug on mine is faulty so in some positions it works fine.  I used a cable tie to secure it into a position that works most the time.  Although it has now stopped again.  I believe I need a different, harder to find 8 pin type.  Still from a TT I believe.  I should just steal the one off my TT mk1 I have stored away!!

You will need the 3B2 837 016A for the driver's side.

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Today … double beep unlocking, drivers window doesn’t drop or attempt to drop. 20 secs later with the door open and me with the front hood open digging something out of the front compartment.. guess what… the window drops to the right position on its own … what the **** !!

Question?

when a door lock micro switch goes wrong/bad can it give issues intermittently?

Tonight drove back 18 miles windows working as they should plus normal remote and silent double flash .. all good. Tomorrow…. Who knows

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You can buy the complete assembly as there are 4 switches (IIRC) inside the latch module.  You can open up the module and identify the micro switch type and source from an electronics outlet, but the switches them selves are not considered as a service part by Porsche or VAG.  I can't find it now but there is a thread on here where someone dissected a latch module to show all the switches.

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I guess if I bought the complete assembly I’d cover all bases. Ridex do one. 1361D0164 at a decent price. I’ve bought their stuff before and it’s ok. AUTODOC do them. £26.11 . Design 911 want £100. I am tempted to buy this lock by doing that I won’t need to mess with any thing else.. right? Does that seem reasonable?

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 3B2 837 016A It is then. This contains the door latch micro switch. So I won’t need to buy this separately? Sorry but I’m trying to wrap my head around this. Have ordered the tools and buttons to do the job as suggested. Problem is I have no garage so ‘car card out’ time needs to be minimal..

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1 hour ago, Triops said:

 3B2 837 016A It is then. This contains the door latch micro switch. So I won’t need to buy this separately? Sorry but I’m trying to wrap my head around this. Have ordered the tools and buttons to do the job as suggested. Problem is I have no garage so ‘car card out’ time needs to be minimal..

NO!

I gave that part number as a reply to @Daboy3000 who has an early 2.5, going back to my post on Sunday for the later part numbers for 98 on wards models:

On 11/26/2023 at 8:34 PM, ½cwt said:

8N2 837 016 or 8N2 837 016B

I can guarantee yours is a 9 pin module, not the early 9 pin, as I've just fitted 2001 door looms to my 2000 car to add speakers and courtesy lights with corresponding replacement door cards and mine is 9 pin and the looms plugged straight in no problem.

Edited by ½cwt
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