Front suspension refresh - Rate my shopping list!

[Hainesy]

My indy told me at last year's service that the front suspension needed sorting - shocks & top mounts were on last legs, bump stops have disintegrated.  We put it on the to do list for this year, but as I've just had to spring for a new exhaust (see post elsewhere) I thought I'd see if I can save a few quid and do the job myself.  Car is a 987.1 Boxster without PASM with 105k on clock and (I assume) the original suspension. 

I've put together the following parts list assuming that these are the 'consumable' parts and that I'll re-use the existing washers, bolts etc. I've added springs but not sure if I need them unless existing ones are broken - would rather do it once and replace them if needed.

- I've found the B4 shocks on backorder at demontweaks for £300 for a pair so cheaper than design911 below. 

- The top mount kit is Meyle

- Bump stop kit is OE Match Classic.

- Springs are Suplex.

- I'll pick up a spring tension tool as well.

Does this list look about right? Have I missed anything? Comments / feedback / tips welcome!

Edited April 17 by Hainesy

[Menoporsche]

At 105k it wouldn't hurt to refresh the springs. Pay for alignment once!

Have you looked at Spyder Performance components? They are mentioned a few times on here. Usually for 986, not sure about 987.1.

[Hainesy]

1 minute ago, Menoporsche said:

At 105k it wouldn't hurt to refresh the springs. Pay for alignment once!

Have you looked at Spyder Performance components? They are mentioned a few times on here. Usually for 986, not sure about 987.1.

Yeah I've skimmed their site but wanted to lock down the parts list before I started properly price hunting down the best prices.

Don't think I've ever paid for alignment before - is it the sort of thing it's fine to go to a 'high street' type outfit for? 

Edited April 17 by Hainesy

[nelmo]

20 minutes ago, Hainesy said:

go to a 'high street' type outfit for

I did - much cheaper than Porsche or any indie (£180) and seemed to do a good job - improved ride afterwards. Just make sure they use the Hunter system...

Edited April 17 by nelmo

[TROOPER88]

987 Bilsteins are on back order and have been for a long time unfortunately. 

 

Edit: Advertising?  

[Hainesy]

Thanks @TROOPER88 that's useful info. I hadn't considered doing the droplinks and control arms as well - is it obvious from a visual inspection if they need replacing too?  I assume with the droplinks at least its the rubber part that fails on them?

 

[TROOPER88]

5 minutes ago, Hainesy said:

Thanks @TROOPER88 that's useful info. I hadn't considered doing the droplinks and control arms as well - is it obvious from a visual inspection if they need replacing too?  I assume with the droplinks at least its the rubber part that fails on them?

 

You won't have a choice re the drop-links as they will be seized more than likely.

They are more difficult to remove than 986 drop links as when you cut the link with a reciprocating saw, on a 986 it leaves the clean 17mm nut that you use a good gun on and a lot of heat. On the 87's there is a welded washer fitted to that nut and using an angle grinder, you flatten the sides of that washer to allow a 17mm impact socket to fit. 

It would be shrewd to replace all the components in one hit as you will be undoing everything to get the shocks out. 

I do it by removing the whole hub and strut assembly in one go with the LCA's still attached. 

[Hainesy]

Eugh, sounds like more of a ballache than I was initially anticipating - I've been lulled into a false sense of security from watching americanyoutube instruction videos,  effortlessly spannering cars in their clean dry climates, in the comfort of their irritatingly spacious garages 😉 

[BBB]

I did mine and it’s good advice to replace all the arms as well, as the rubber bushes will be at the end of their lives. I replaced all the bolts as I had to cut many of them and wanted fresh fasteners. I definitely had to use a recip saw and toughened blades, don’t waste time faffing around, just cut any bolts that resist you.

[Hainesy]

I've got a recip saw, haven't used it for metal before though - I'm after a blade like this?

https://www.toolstation.com/bosch-expert-thick-tough-metal-carbide-sabre-saw-blade-s955chc/p67022?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=null&pkw=null&pmt=null&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5v2wBhBrEiwAXDDoJZO7GpmQE7hsVN5E24AEJdUCR-eOI29IuiOAETvczrYPQ_vYw4gkjxoCEkoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Edited April 17 by Hainesy

[TROOPER88]

1 minute ago, Hainesy said:

I've got a recip saw, haven't used it for metal before though - I'm after a blade like this?

https://www.toolstation.com/bosch-expert-thick-tough-metal-carbide-sabre-saw-blade-s955chc/p67022?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=null&pkw=null&pmt=null&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5v2wBhBrEiwAXDDoJZO7GpmQE7hsVN5E24AEJdUCR-eOI29IuiOAETvczrYPQ_vYw4gkjxoCEkoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Screwfix sell the Milwaukee blades with carbide teeth (Torch). 

If the lower control arms bolts are seized, you need to be extremely careful as the subframe is very soft. Damage the subframe and it's a whole world of pain.

You may be lucky and your fixings are not seized  

[BBB]

I also used an aluminium assembly grease when putting new parts back on again, not that I ever want to do it again, but as insurance if a spring broke in the future for example and I had to take things apart again.

[½cwt]

Bosch Sabre blades are also good for the hard steel in these Porsche bolts.  Done 4 bolts and 3 drop links with just one blade.

Edited April 17 by ½cwt

[½cwt]

The top mount is also made by Sachs for Porsche.  Look for their number 802 553, if you get one you will see where the Porsche part number was removed before the final factory plating process...  You can get them for around £75 upwards for a pair i.e. about half the price listed above although I note that includes the top bearing.  Top bearings as long as you clean them up and check they are not pitted or corroded can be regreased and go again.

Also bear in mind the prices in the list shown are ex VAT.

Edited April 17 by ½cwt

[Ninesomething]

On 4/17/2024 at 10:07 AM, Hainesy said:

Yeah I've skimmed their site but wanted to lock down the parts list before I started properly price hunting down the best prices.

Don't think I've ever paid for alignment before - is it the sort of thing it's fine to go to a 'high street' type outfit for? 

Depending on where you are in Beds I totally recommend Orbit tyres in Wellingborough for alignment. The guy that runs it has owned 2 Boxsters and a Cayman and did a perfect job on mine - even adding in all the camber on the front like the likes of centre gravity do but at 4 times the price. Proper alignment will make the difference between 👌 and a car that handles like a plate of jelly on a stick. If you want I'll meet you there with my 'perfect' result print out and we'll get them to duplicate it.

[Hainesy]

22 hours ago, Ninesomething said:

Depending on where you are in Beds I totally recommend Orbit tyres in Wellingborough for alignment. The guy that runs it has owned 2 Boxsters and a Cayman and did a perfect job on mine - even adding in all the camber on the front like the likes of centre gravity do but at 4 times the price. Proper alignment will make the difference between 👌 and a car that handles like a plate of jelly on a stick. If you want I'll meet you there with my 'perfect' result print out and we'll get them to duplicate it.

Top tip, will make a note - thanks!