sa utah

And that part is £422 plus VAT !      Will try my best to clean up the existing part first.....

Well the across gate cable is still on but the linkage is frozen.   I don't have much time and it's raining now but i've spayed it with penetrating fluid and will look at it when i get a chance.   

It drove perfectly last time without any drama at all.   Will get under it tomorrow for a look at  the linkages.   Perhaps if mine had a 6th gear it would move from 5 to 6.

As it is I can only move from 5th down (its a 5 speed box) to where it would normally stop.   It doesn't move to the natural neutral centre point but is out of gear at least.

I should add that the gear stick won't move left at all.   I can only move from 5th downwards....   When in 5th I can stall the car by lifting the clutch and when in neutral i can take my foot off and it idles as expected.....    So the lever is stuck.     I'd have thought if the cables had come off the lever would flop about.

Afternoon all.

I've not been able to drive my car for a couple of months and this morning went to give it a run and I can't select any gear except 5th !     I can drop into neutral and that's all.  

Absolutely no issues before and all looks good below around the linkage too.

Any help appreciated !

Not even sure why you’d even contemplate NOT getting it swapped.  It’s a cosmetic part.
 

Feom my experience you’re best getting such things from your local OPC.    
 

I think it’s pretty straightforward  but guess it depends on your comfort zone.  Just another win for Lego being my favourite toy as a kid I guess.   Everything is a Lego kit to me.  Without instructions unless there’s a YouTube video !  
 

I think I did a write up somewhere on here about sealing up the bottom of the metal door membranes to stop water getting into the door panel carpet and then into the car floor. 
 

definately make sure that’s done as the foam seal will be toast.  
 

just a bad time of year to tackle such things. 
 

I can tell you you’ll need the following before starting 

new regulator ( mine was actually ok and the glass had slipped out but you’d have to wait for 3 days from your OPC if not in stock if you find yours is bust.  Don’t get an aftermarket one. 
 

New door card clips.  Come in a bag of 10   You WILL need these as they break or just don’t work a second time 

Tube of sims flex sealant for inner membrane

trim removal tools.
 

torx bits

tea

biscuits

hot bath  
 

Wondering how many other Porsche owners couldn't get into their cars this week...   Mine is totally frozen solid.    Door handles, windows, the lot.        Had to poor cold water on the other car to get into that but at least the windows do§nt have to drop on that !

Re you 1 series I use REALOEM.COM to get part numbers for my BMW cars....     There`s also a link to many other manufactures spares numbers etc,

M

thanks guys.....

Luckily the passenger one broke last year (or maybe the year before......).  

On 11/23/2022 at 12:06 PM, Daveb975 said:

How does the 12V supply work on the MXS10? Do you connect that straight to the fusebox?

I've got the original Porsche branded CTEK unit, and I've found that will actually get a completely flat battery again by leaving it plugged into the 12V socket for an hour or so. I'm not sure that this is advisable though, even that the unit gets very hot whilst doing this!

I have used the fuse box ' Pullout and the MXS10 has a button to cycle through the options of Charge/ AGM/Recon/Supply.

Does anyone know where i can get a list of coding options for a 987?    I have Durametric and after using it to acuate the window during todays regulator swap I remembered some odds and ends could be turned on / off.   Comfort closing / DRL etc....

Any help appreciated.  

Got the door stripped down today (freezing but the only day I have for a couple of weeks) only to find there was a pretty new looking regulator in there and the glass had just become detached.   Not surprising as the screws which tighten up the two clamps were loose !   The glass was always a bit misaligned so whoever did the job last time should have stayed in bed.      As I was in there and for peace of mind I still fitted the new regulator so have a "used" one in stock in my ever growing collection a car spares.....   Must have a clear out.   Perfect alignment now and as a bonus the little bit of wind noise I had from the window seal near the trailing edge has gone.   

Back to two fully working windows,   For now....

Jump packs won't work as mentioned,    I have a CTeK MXS10 which has a 12v supply option.  That works great to put on the fuse box post.   

So it's that time of year where the windows get frozen on the 987.....

I should have known but of course lift the handle, heard a weird noise and the window is now totally loose!     So a new drivers side regulator required.    I did the passenger one last year so know the procedure now.   

Just watch out and make sure you defrost somehow before trying the handles !

I wonder how Boxsters that live outside in properly cold countries cope.............

I have this exact issue and although I've not swapped it yet I have a tested and working pump to go into the car.      The EML will stay off for ages and then come on usually while I'm just cruising along.   

I have a Durametric kit and can't make the pump run via that, Ive also supplied 12v direct to the pump and it still won't run.    so the pump is dead.  

All of my cars do this.  Including my 2.7 987.

Just done mine.  Put 7.5L in.  Ran it for a few mins then left over night. 
 

next morning slowly topped of to the max line. Which is not the TOP line.  It’s the next one down. 

Just a quick heads up on a small issue I've noticed.  Yesterday whilst doing an oil and filter service I realised the oil filler cap seal had deteriorated to the point shown on the image below.    As you may or may not know this seal is important as the oil system in under vacuum.  (take off the oil cap and run your engine to see how badly it runs).     I've always had a slightly fluctuating idle where you could see the rev counter dipping and rising by a tiny amount.     New seal has fixed that.

Part number 

Thanks for the link   Great info and confirms the "self adjusting".   

i'll try pulling the lever repeatedly as that was the way to get the adjusters moving on my other car I seem to remember......

Those adjusters simply move the shoes relative to the drum.   They don’t take up any slack in the cables.  
 

apologies for my confusing reply above mentioning pads ! 
 

Those adjusters simply move the pads relative to the drum.   They don’t take up any slack in the cables.  
 

after new discs etc on the rear of the car and adjusting the handbrake shoes as per the tech article I am perplexed as there is no way (it appears) to tack up the slack in the handbrake cable....

Expecting it to be a simple case of lifting up the access panel behind the brake lever like on the 986.......   There are no adjustment screws/nuts etc.

Can anyone tell me how to sort?   I've done a little bit of googling and it seems the cable is "self adjusting".  Maybe someone can tell me how that works as mine obviously hasn't !

Cheers.

I`ve just done a few long motorway trips and ended up at 38 MPG for my 2.7      That was cruise on cirlca 60 - 70 MPH

I thought that was pretty decent considering.

Round the doors the gauge reads 23 MPG regularly.