Paul P

7 minutes ago, paulguitar said:

 

Something seems to have changed. The indy was genuinely surprised by it. 

Hmm.... it's been well known for a while - here's a BoXa post from 2017 discussing it - I don't know how they would have done it successfully without

Just now, bally4563 said:

I bet the code is a one time/use only 

It's a code that is generated by the Porsche backend system - you feed it the "product code" ( whatever the "seed value" is for Cruise Control) and the target Vehicle VIN - it spits out a "key" that works for that product on that car - exactly the same principal as the map updates - thats why the 3rd party map update providers send the maps on a USB stick - they ask for the vin beforehand and craft a self extracting update tool onto the USB - so you don't need PIWIS in that case - that only works for the PCM (since thats a computer in its own right) - things like Cruise need PIWIS.... They started to do it on the 987.2 - retrofitted Sports Chronos is 800 quid - 80 quid for th switch 720 quid for the code...... - and they generate the key from the product code and the vin The 3rd party providers have manged to crack the "maths" required for 981 cruise by the looks - interestingly - they never cracked it for 987.2 chronos..... 

3 minutes ago, paulguitar said:

The indy has coded many cars successfully before, but it seems Porsche is implementing this change from the 981 onwards. He's fitted and coded the hardware to my car, but it seems there is no way of getting the activation code from Porsche. If that website works, I'd be tempted. I'd feel better having heard from someone who has used it without issues if there is anyone around here who has.

 

 

 

Yup - but its not a new thing that the 981 onwards needs an activation code - that's what I mean - it shouldn't be a surprise to an indy - it's been fact since they rolled off the production line in 2012. The fact that a "back door" operation is in play means that you can't simply ask an OPC nicely.

1 hour ago, boxtastic said:

 

I have seen this source for Porsche codes quoted before, but have no experience of using it myself:-

https://www.code-porsche.com/

Good luck

He charges about £100 for the code as far as I remember - I know folks who have bought 987.2 PCM Map codes from him,  given he's ( I think ) is based in Russia - then perhaps he's still actually in business perhaps not , and (reaching for my tinfoil to make a new hat) - sending bank transfers to dodgy people in russia might be a bad idea right now... pays your money, takes your chances, looks out for the black helicopters.

With reference to OP - would have thought indy would have known about the activation code requirement before hand - it shouldn't come as a surprise. 

When I had my 911 SC it had the BIG whale tail - looked so good on that car - I let a mate drive it, he asked politely if he could "give it some" on a fast stretch of road - and then said - "dont you get fed up with people wanting to race you, like that idiot in the black car that's right behind us....." - I looked round - nothing there - he was racing the spoiler that he could see in the rear view mirror......

On the face of it - that coding looks OK to me ( we have had a case of something odd happening with an RCU supplied and coded by the same folks - but in that case the "new" hood control setting wasn't there at all - and they did sort it out.)

I notice that the rear lights are set to LED ? Should not have any impact but is this a gen 2 (2009->) car - just interested to know if the previous gen 1 cars can be coded to have led rears ? 

Seen a few references to the tracks on the switch needing to be resoldered, few threads on here (somewhere) showing the process - perhaps its not the switch but the "pathways"

4 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

expect funny behaviour at the back of the car. I don't know if that includes the roof.

Yup - thats the unit that drives the roof mechanism

1 minute ago, moonshine said:

Out of curiosity, Can anyone shed light on why my 981 BS (without Sports design pack (SDP)) appears to run about 102-105C in normal mode, but the engine temperature drops to around 92-95C when in Sports mode?

If i recall corrctly, GTS and cars with Sports Design pack have a third central radiator that comes on line in when sports mode is selected to improve cpooling , however I wasn't aware of this in non SDP cars. My central front bumper section is solid

Any reason why im seeing this drop in engine temp in my car?

 

I may be wrong - but I think there is an additional OIL cooler or perhaps a fan on the oil cooler that is part of the sports stuff - I think the OIL temp drops and that has an overall temperature impact - according to this random article - sport mode makes the ECO have a lower target temp for OIL https://rennlist.com/forums/981-forum/1268935-sport-mode-in-a-2016-981-a.html

12 minutes ago, Chigley said:

There's been no ill treatment to the switch nor barrel for the six years I've had the car and I can't remember the ignition lock being defective. If it's an electro-mechanical lock then I don't know, as, there's nothing apparently amiss mechanically and nothing else is faulty electrically. 

Ok.  
 

Must be something else then. You aren’t supposed to be able to remove the key.  
 

sorry I can’t guess what else it would be. 
 

good luck fixing it.  

Random thoughts.

 Who coded the module ?

has it worked since the module was replaced ?

Is that c121 code “active” or “stored” ( if you clear it does it come back ?) 

does the spoiler raise/lower on the button  ? 
 

try poking the area around where the roof latch sits   There is a micro switch in there that starts the window drop process   Wd40 might help but the coding on the module has the same symptom from memory   

that sounds a bit like the new module hasn’t got the “new mechanism” config set for the roof. 
 

I am near Rochester Kent, I have PIWIS, can plug in and have a look if you want to come find me.  

12 hours ago, Chigley said:

Has anyone come across being able to remove your ignition key when the engine is running or you have the key in the ignition "on" position with the engine stopped, I thought the key should only be removable in position "0"? Are there any fixes for this or is the switch internally knackered?

Its an electrical lock to keep the key in place - you shouldn't be able to remove it on pos 1 - I suspect someone previously had a flat battery - the key latches in place - there is a manual removal procedure but folks sometimes prefer violence and force to "handbook and process" and yank the key free with a pair of mole grips because it's "stuck". I can imagine that would damage the lock mechanism - I would also suspect it's part of the "barrel" rather than the switch - but it may be a completely separate part.

Re the seal that’s a “kidney” for the hard top from Porsche. I am not familiar with the hardtop or the profile / shape of the seal but I just replaced the boot seal on wife’s car with one from these folks. 
 

https://sealextrusions.com/collections/automotive-seals-parts

they appear to have a number of seal profiles on the shelf - and just perhaps there’s something in their catalog that would help.   
 

worth a call perhaps. ?

No affinity.  Just a happy customer for a seal for a daily driver.  

All good advice but I would suggest if you are getting “serious” with penetrating oil then plus gas, pb blaster (50/50 mix of acetone and atf - rebuilding a 50 year old Honda bike - it’s like magic ) or just plain “diesel” is a better option than wd40. That’s a jack of all trades “tool in a can” and it’s good but others are “great”

 but - it smells so good.  

Not been there so no 1st hand knowledge but I have read that these cars don’t really benefit from going much lower than “pasm”

mate of mine just spent a small fortune on a suspension refresh - got talked into “fast road” shocks / springs by an upselling Indy (and his car ended up featured on their YT channel) and he now has some serious regrets.  In his words it went from “great to drive but lacking in kerb appeal” to “looks fantastic parked but I don’t like driving it anymore “

of course.  Your car / money / choice but honestly I think it depends on your desired outcome. 

Just had all the front ones done on mine.  987.2 - 2011 car.  Done (mostly) under Porsche extended warranty - I paid for a few parts that were not ( or couldn’t easily be made to ) actually leaking.  

3 hours ago, moonshine said:

What would happen you put a copy of  SSD made from my PCM into your PCM?

Would it work? Or would the fact the SSD was made from a HDD tied to another VIN mean it would not work?

As I guess I would have thought that things that were generic PCM functionality would work - but things that were tied to VIN might refuse to work (maps, individual memory etc.) - but as I say - a guess.

53 minutes ago, 832ark said:

Well guys, I think I’ve got to the bottom of the mystery flakes. That probably explains why I couldn’t find anything in the oil filter 🤣. Will wait for the oil analysis to come back first though. 

That's a result if that's the source 

12 minutes ago, phazed said:

Right, I really must get onto my double beeping. It is getting embarrassing. Every time I pull up anywhere and open the drivers door it double beeps.

Without reading back through the thread, can someone advise me what the first move is and where to go from there.

Read codes. 

On 4/4/2024 at 8:19 PM, Dubdubz said:

no contact as yet which is a bit odd

 

And it’s a rubbish advert to be fair. Few pictures, no details, red edition flags for me.  

31 minutes ago, scorpio63 said:

How do I do a DM on here..

Click on a persons forum name / handle.  Resulting screen has an icon looking like an envelope near the top.  That will open up a new message to them.  

987.2 experience.  2.9 pdk vs 3.4 pdk.  No wrong answer.  Both fast enough. 
 

2.9 had a (for me ) annoyance.  When driving like miss daisey at 70 I found it need a downshift to accelerate to 75.  Non issue in that it was easy to do ( wheel controls, manual mode, foot twitch ) but the annoyance as it needed it - at those speeds on the motorway if you said “come on let’s go”! it turned Jekyll and Hyde and become a 90+ monster.  Not so the 3.4 It will roll on 5 mph at 70 without getting excited.  Personally I don’t equate that with “engaging” it was just “busy”.  
 

otherwise.  I wouldn’t have really noticed the difference.  Mrs P described the 3.4 as less frantic. 
 

if I went again I would consider either engine with either box but if I am honest I would probably lean towards a manual 2.9 or a pdk 3.4 but neither combo would be a deal breaker  all combos are faster and better than me  

22 minutes ago, McDonald said:

Thanks for the information, all very helpful & it sounds less expensive than I had thought. Cruise control is great for Motorway runs.

As Richard says a good diag tool would confirm but if you have to try a parts swap then brake light switch is a good (lower cost) start. 

Absolutely in agreement re “re-use” .  

Just the point is “supposed to stick to pad” so perhaps a roll of this is appropriate.  (Not used this for pads so far but it’s stuck a piece a laminate flooring trim in place like it was made as one piece from the factory) 

https://amzn.eu/d/e0QND8T

as always - everyone’s individual  car/choice/money/opinion  but in my opinion - not sticking the shims to the pads is not doing the whole job.  Same as if you bought new shims and left the protective paper on the sticky face.  
 

Whilst they can and do take the p*as in the service / maintenance space I think “they did this in the factory - there’s a spreadsheet somewhere that says - Value of doing > cost of implementing on production line” 

as ever.  Just my opinion. 

14 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

I guess there must still be enough sticky between the shims and the pads I was refitting.  Reusing is handy if possible as otherwise it is £50 or £60 most of us would rather not spend on the older cars at least.

agree 100% - they are far too much money - even 3rd party - when I did the rears on mine - one side was still stuck onto the pads - the other side had pulled the paint off the pad and was "detached" - for what they are - it's robbery. Next time around I will be reusing mine, with the tape that I have - which was the one previously mentioned.

I just figure the fact that the factory spec is for them to be stuck to the pads then there's a point to it - but i just dont see how/why a bean tin lid with a a sticker and a rivetted on interference fit spring is so much money

6 hours ago, Bike Loon said:

No doubt they still need the stupidly expensive anti squeal bits

more expensice because there are 2 per side per caliper - 8 in all - in 2 different sizes.