Paul P

Been a few discussions on reuse with some heavy duty double sided tape to stick them back on the new pads - I agree - they are "Stupid" money 

Type 911 Shop have them as well. https://type911shop.co.uk/epages/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766/Products/4308

i consider every question asked by an insurance company to be a potential trap and they are fastidious when it comes to compiling your "big picture" - but not so much the other way around....

I have a multicar policy all the family plus the dog's car 5 in total - I used to have an Audi A4, about 18 months after I sold it, and took it off the policy I got a letter from my insurer telling me they had opened a claim regarding the undeclared incident with "my car".

I called and inquired and they were vague.... the incident was I had hit a parked car, in a place I had never been to on a day I was about 150 miles away from..... more questions, and it was "the Audi" - I said I didn't own or insure an Audi with them, they replied, oh it must be one you are a named driver on...... I asked again for more details - suggesting that they were referring to the Audi I used to own - they then confirmed the reg..... I pointed out again that it was not insured by me with them and they said "can you prove you sold it" - to which I replied - yes, but ownership isn't the issue, its more the proof that I don't have it insured - to that end here is your email confirm the change of vehicle and your email confirming the vehicles covered. They said I had to prove I didn't own it - I replied that I didn't own most of the millions of cars in the UK - would they like proof for EVERY car I didn't own and didn't insure, if they didn't mind hanging on the phone for the next 5 years I would run through all the cars I saw that I didn't own.

At that point they said "ok our mistake, our system just gave your name as the insured for this car"... so either they hadn't ever taken it off risk or the new owner had never insured it...." - I got written confirmation that it was nothing to do with me and moved on, expecting it to come up again at some point because they are simply a law unto themselves - I hope one day the motor insurance industry and the "approved repairers - owned by insurance companies, who inflate the repair prices" get the same reaming that the banks had.

Might be two seperate issues.  The up/down is classic microswitch as meno says.  The no response from switch could be the switch itself.   I had similar switch behaviour on a previous car and a good drink with a contact cleaner and a bit of wiggling and forceful operation solved it.  

Interesting.  I can’t remember the model of the kenwood I put in the Audi but that definitely dimmed.  If I remember correctly the head unit expected the see the lights on straight from the iso harness. (And I don’t know why but I think pin a6 on the iso is supposed to present it. )

I had to depin the adapter and take the lights on feed from a canbus adapter because the car loom didn’t have it.  
 

On most 3rd party head units in other cars the dinming is keyed off the “lights on” signal from the car. 
 

Don’t know about the 986 but 987 needs an adapter to get the signal from the canbus (was also the case in a 2004 Audi ) 

if that isn’t hooked up then the head unit thinks it’s forever daytime 

suggest check the pin out for the head unit and if it has an input for lights on that isn’t fed by the car then consider splicing onto the light switch.  

32 minutes ago, phazed said:

Cheap decibel meter arrived.

Approximately 84 DB on idle and 102 DB at 4700 RPM.

Readings taken approximately 18 inches away from tailpipe at 45°. This seems to be the standard procedure at Track Days when they are measuring DB.

It would be good to get this under 100 so I will make up and fit a deflector.

 Out of interest, my track day Skoda running 245 BHP, A 1.8 turbo with a sports cat and 3 inch stainless system ran no more than 87B at 5000 RPM. Noticeably quieter.

I expect the turbo takes some of the energy out of the exhaust flow that would otherwise end up as sound 

I am 6 - 1 - I have found  every Porsche I have driven to be more comfortable if I sit more upright than I naturally want  to. In the 987.2 it means the optimum comfort position for me sees me sitting higher than I would want and in the airstream slightly - so I tend to drop the seat to it's lowest and live with the compromise. 

Only answer is go sit in a a couple ( and depending on your shape - you may find that the sports seats are MORE comfortable than the comfort seats (I am 16st - and the sport seats are WAY better)

Whereabouts are you - someone near you may be willing to let you sit in a fiddle with the seats to try a car on for size.

1 hour ago, runner said:

Hi have a Porsche 981, 9.5 years old .. I’ve a charger attached that has worked fine for years but this year it’s started getting to the 4 green lights out of 8 status .. and then flashing green light bottom left .. and all other lights turn off … CTEK MS 5.0 … is the battery just too old or is it the trickle charger ? Any ideas ? Thanks 

What’s the manual for the ctek say about that light “combo”?

i have found them (ctek) very responsive if you email them and they recently honoured a 5 Year warranty of my unit when it started giving me “red light” on my battery  

that said. If you still have the original battery in the car then it has done well and could well be past its best.  

10 hours ago, rhon said:

I got dtc c141 lost communication pcm (display)

Can anyone help me to solve this problem..

 

Thank you

Might be better to start a new thread but an initial guess / response.  

what led you to scan the car , are you looking for a particular issue ?

also.  Starter for 10.  Have you (or previous owner) replaced the “radio/media” head unit in the car ? 

On 3/9/2024 at 5:12 PM, Slomofo said:

Cleaned all the accumulated cack out of the front scuttle, unblocked all of the water drains, realised many plastic clips and fasteners missing including one of the damper top covers.  All stupidly expensive to replace!

If you haven’t already done so I would suggest pricing clips etc up at OPC.  Sometimes they are a lot cheaper than the online suppliers. 

6 minutes ago, ribroaster3 said:

Lots of common sense answers-thanks. I think where I’m coming from is that I would simply like to paint a full picture of what has been done to ‘my new car’ over the years and when it’s been done and maybe why.

safety recalls?

emergency repairs -either under or outwith warranty?

additional work or repairs by previous owner-recommended by OPC?

Just my curious nature and not liking surprise of the nasty kind.

i will pursue a full disclosure and try and build up a bulging file of work done to it.

One of you might thank me for it in a couple of years when I sell the car to you!! 😂😂

 

 

 

Recalls are noted in the service book - they call them "campaigns"

I have been able to get copies of the redacted (name address costs) job sheets from OPC's in the past - just had to provide them a copy of my v5 to prove I currently owned the car.

Warranty related work may or may not have paperwork - I had to ask OPC for some documentation for my recent cross over pipe work - but others have had full paperwork for warranty work.

2 hours ago, Davey P said:

Am I missing something here...?  "What it does is very simple: When it gets dark, the headlights turn on. When it is bright outside they turn off".  Er, or you could simply turn the headlight switch on and off...... 

Madness! 😂

Yup. I agree.  Apparently became a thing because chunks of Europe mandate lights on in tunnels.  
 

and when it’s foggy or snowing the car thinks everything is nice and bright and doesn’t turn them on, and people assume the car knows best.  

26 minutes ago, Toddie said:

@Danncus  Make sure when you take the photo that you have something in an image that shows the depth of the hole, that is important. Also look on the council website, they should have a report a pothole section, see if the pothole that has caused your damage is listed, if it is then you have a problem as the council can then claim it is in hand to be fixed. I had a claim paid by Blackpool council when a raised manhole cover ripped the anti roll bar off my Frog eye Sprite, there were no warning signs.

Was the opposite for me when I hit a dislodged storm drain cover owned by Thames water.  Their “mandate” was they had 5 hours from reporting to repair in which case you couldn’t claim.  
 

i (and 5 other people who also damaged their cars ) reported it within a couple of hours of hitting it and they dismissed all the claims. 

i looked at the small claims court route and they quoted the same mandate 

Two tyres a rim a 4 wheel geo and recalibration of all the lane keeping stuff on the daily focus.  
 

cost me nearly a grand.  The golf who was following me was written off.  He rode over the cover.  Took off and landed nose first.  Crumple zones went all airbags deployed and the cover punched through his gearbox and ended up in the cabin in the drivers footwell.  And still “not our problem”

9 hours ago, Toddie said:

@TomGW I may be talking complete b*ll*cks (it has been known previously) but if you have the immobilizer pill in the non functioning key, could you not copy the signal from the working key onto one of these clone remote duplicator key things that are readily for sale on bay of thieves etc? using the defunct key in conjunction with the copied code would it work? don't know just a random thought.

ie https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314999550199?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811125216%26meid%3D0d100c95a36f4355b98e05442d308837%26pid%3D101771%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26itm%3D314999550199%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DWatchlistVariantWithMLR%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p4375194.c101771.m47999&_trkparms=parentrq%3A133801ad18e0acd844ac3bd7fffe919e|pageci%3Acf541b52-dba0-11ee-b093-624a82d998bf|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage

I think the problem with cloning the remote is that the codes “roll” with each use and the car and the remote stay in sync within a range.  So if you have two remotes being the same “key” then after a while the key that you aren’t using will be out of the code window and will need to be re-synced.  

Same thing happens if you let a kid play with your keys out of range of the car - when you go to use it the car refuses.   

the resync process is listed in the “primer” often linked to on here. 

i think that’s the problem with the timpsons cloning option as well. 

18 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Look for part number revisions?

There was a revision last year but I heard that the revision and the delay was “moving out of the factory in the Ukraine and relocating to Poland”  but that may just be rumour related to the back orders and they have fixed the failure in the process.  

3 minutes ago, Gramps said:

The pump itself is definitely mechanical (driven off the end of the camshaft) and that side of it would seem to've been fine. I get the impression the solenoid side of it actually opens a valve that lets the high pressure through. It seems that maybe the solenoid was sticking but eventually opened and once open it was fine. Also no probs whatsoever once warm or even a few hours after stopping the engine, like bbrbob says if left till cold/next day or beyond then you were back to square 1. Who knows, may even have been just a bad connection to the solenoid that was cleared when it was disconnected?? God I hope not 🤣. I checked the piston and washers on the valve operated by the solenoid and all looks good, again if there was a mechanical issue with that valve I though I would've possibly seen something amiss. 

Mine was high 80's when the problem was first noticed, but on googling some of the MY2009 & MY2010 cars that had the HPFP replaced by Porsche were well below 40k miles?? My MY2011 didn't qualify for free replacement by Porsche and it did last a fair while so maybe Porsche did rectify whatever the initial manufacturing problem was?? 

Makes sense.  Just looking at some of the wording in the docs around the error codes and the valve is mentioned. It also talk about the car detecting a “long start” (think it said 6 seconds of cranking) and then it goes into low pressure start mode.  Will try and dig some more and find out what that is.  Might tally with the early symptoms of cars seeming to be sluggish to start.  

I didn’t read the whole of the linked article about the 3rd party opener but it sounded to me like it piggy backed the unlock signals to the doors.  That’s fine but the alarm doesn’t deactivate on the door contacts (otherwise you wouldn’t need to put the key in quick once you open the door surely ) so you could unlock from the fob but still have to race to get the key in ? Also for that price I can’t imagine it’s got rotating codes so pretty easy to “grab and replay” 

i haven’t tried it but the 987 appears to have a coding option on PIWIS that turns off the alarm with the key as well  as  on the remote - would be viable in that case I think. 

3 hours ago, Gramps said:

I asked for my old HPFP back after it was replaced as I wanted to have a poke around on it. Once it kicked in it worked fine all day and wouldn't miss a beat so the mechanical workings of the pump were presumeably ok and the problem would appear to lay with whatever "activates" the pump. To that end there is a solenoid which I DC tested sticking 12v on it and that appeared to operate ok. I get the impression that whatever the issue is with the pump it is probably something minor which makes it hard to bite the bullet and dig deep into the pockets to get it replaced, which is one of the reasons I took so long to get mine done, by the time I bit the bullet stock had ran out and they were on back order. Maybe there's someone out there who will probably (well definitely) know more about the workings of these things than I do who might want to take a look? 

that's interesting - clearly an issue in the pump since replacing the unit fixes the issues I had assumed the pump was mechanical  - thinking the solenoid activates a clutch of some kind? Or is it electric where the solenoid turns it on - so maybe a bearing sticking as it wears

Out of interest - those who have had the failure - what mileage approx are you at ?

3 minutes ago, nelmo said:

Fuel pump is only £375 from Design911 (£215 if you go pattern part) and DIY fitting looks pretty simple...remove battery, remove panel under that.

EDIT: ah sorry, 987.2, so pump is £420...

If it the High Pressure fuel pump then I suspect there's only genuine parts available - they were on back order for a big chunk of last year with no 3rd party solutions and a "refurb" service running out of Poland.

It's not the one in the tank (981 and 987.2 S share the same part) 

https://www.design911shop.com/p/porsche-981-boxster-cayman-high-pressure-fuel-pump-9a111031506/?currency=GBP&country=GB&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAopuvBhBCEiwAm8jaMaaAVeoiuC93rMNsRS8RbTYxRUKDdr0y3YP5ESPA4N3C8geH4E6VUBoCUzoQAvD_BwE

Hopefully all academic and it's not that.

@Gramps does this sound like the high pressure fuel pump to you ? 

I would also note are the boxster has a lot more luggage space, which can be a domestic selling point and is actually very usable.

Other than that - buy with your head - they don't do well on deferred maintenance - look for evidence of money spent on brakes and suspension, personal taste on modifications but you will soon tell from the adverts if the entire maintenance budget has been spent on stickers vs oil changes.

You didn't say where you are based, but there maybe someone near enough to you for a show and tell over a coffee if you want to have a look around a few cars and get some pointers - or reach out to a local club (Porsche Club GB or TIPEC - depends on where you are as to how useful that might be).

1 hour ago, phazed said:

Sounds like you just have a poor connection from the car or spare battery that you have jumped from. A jumpstart with good connections and good leads works every time if there is nothing wrong with your car. I would revisit it considering the above and if possible and change to a really good set of jump leads.

^^^ this ^^^ 

Have fallen foul of cheap jump leads myself in the past.  

Had a local kid, about 10 years old ask me about my car one day when I was messing around fettling things on the drive.   He asked me what it was.  How fast it went.  Where the engine was etc.  

about a month later same kid with his mate and his mum walking by and he’s telling his mate and his mum not only what I told him but also what model it was and what size engine it had.  
 

I let the kids get in -and let  them put the roof down.  Biggest grin from them as they took turns sitting behind the wheel.  
 

My mrs said “at least they will look after it when they steal it!”   Harsh I thought. 

Local OPC had a Cayenne with the roof tent and various other bits of bolt on - I was there for an hour or so one day looking at the Jota 963 they had in there and three different sets of people turned to have a proper look - 2 trying the boot out for size with their dogs - watching the sales guy winch as fido scribbled their way in,  and one couple wanting to see what the tent was like..... there was a whole health and safety risk assessment going one about them climbing up the ladder.....

Not so much of that going on for the Boxster - but I did sleep in mine at Le Mans - have to say - wasn't the most comfortable night I have spent under canvas.

I would go with a full lube with the appropriate ptfe/dry lube on every moving surface of both roof and clamshell mechanisms and then see if it stops or changes - creaking is typically rubber going dry but I would take the opportunity to do it all.