Paul P

Think I would go with disconnecting the siren for now.  See if everything is happy and then treat the siren as a separate problem.  

3 hours ago, ATM said:

Little LiPo only just fit with standard cables stretched way more than I would like. So I only fit the LiPo while I brought the banner lead anchor in the house to charge it up. So it wasn't bolted or cable tied in at all. I did try an ignition on and all seemed fine and then also an engine start and again all fine with no [extra] warnings on dash. I'm guessing if I want to actually use a little LiPo on the car I'll need to do something more meaningful with the cabling. Like cutting the standard cables, but maybe I could just cut the earth side as no need to cut both sides.

 

So the original Banner is back in there now and I've driven the car a couple of times.

 

Car seems to have developed a bit of brake undulation like warped discs. I'm assuming or hoping it isn't warped fronts as I only recently changed these. So maybe I need to change the rears.

 

Is there a simple test to check for uneven discs? I'm thinking about just spinning the wheels when jacked up. Obviously doesn't work so well on the rears with the gearbox and everything but I've never tried this with the PDK gearbox in N.

I borrowed a dial gauge with a magnetic base from a mate to check by my fronts easier than judging by eye. 
 

You can spin the rears in neutral just not very quickly so dial gauge might be a better option there.  
 

excuse for a new tool ? 

2 hours ago, lofi said:

Thanks for all the advice. Update to follow but can someone confirm that the car should ‘chirp’ irrespective of any settings if you try to lock the car from the remote button with a door open?

Pretty sure it should.   Previous generation (987 ) do and the video shows it doing it with the bonnet open.  
 

@daz05 has a video on YouTube showing a “not working” siren and his replacement process.   

What’s the immobiliser “effect” on a 986. Does that inhibit crank and run or just run ? 

4 minutes ago, kdh said:

Best way to dry it out - run it with full heater/aircon on or leave it standing with windows open?

You need airflow - but if its anything like the cabin carpets then best to get it out and dry it properly indoors - the heater/ac won't make much difference.

Well there’s a thing I never imagined existed.  Very cool,and NMAUTOMOTIVE provide very good support 

41 minutes ago, CMA said:

If yours is a 2014 then it is only 10 years old so far

CMA makes a good point there.  

Personal opinion

it’s distance or time. oil degrades over time so likely whatever properties make it appropriate are degraded after 12 years.
 

 if it was the other way round say if the car had done 120k in 6 years for example then the logic wouldn’t hold for “good for another 120k” 

if you aren’t going to do it now then when will you do it, 15 years ? 20 years ? 

if you sell in the next few years then a buyer would be looking to see if it’s been done but like all these things.  Of course it your car.  Your choice

14 minutes ago, phazed said:

100% reconnected.

I did do a lot of wire, brushing and cleaning up of the cats externally and left the sensors in place as they looked like they had been there forever and I would probably damage them taking them out. Of course they may not have been working when I bought the car, I really don’t know.

I don't have a wiring diagram handy - but I would assume there's 12v on at least one of the pins when the ignition is on - is it worth putting a meter on the car side connectors and making sure there is supply before firing the parts cannon?

Maybe there's a fuse associated ? C2? ( https://fuse-box.info/porsche/porsche-911-996-986-boxster-1996-2004-fuses-and-relays)

4 minutes ago, 718as said:

Hi,

Anyone got this.

I have Apple car play in the 718 wired via the USB port and wanted to connect my Samsung s22 ultra android phone wireless.

Will this do the trick?

Thanks

As far as I know ( happy to be schooled ) Porsche don't enable Android Auto on the PCM - I understand there are "diy" approaches to turning it on - but out of the box I don't think it's available. If you currently can't do Android Auto wired then I doubt this will make it available wirelessly.

On 2/17/2024 at 6:02 PM, MH82 said:

and sports plus seats so that I can pop a baby seat in occasionally - you know, all the sexy stuff!

Does it (do all the Spyders?) have the off switch for passenger airbag ?

may help.... https://rennlist.com/forums/987-forum/1216614-cleaned-your-drains-lately.html

"taste test" , assuming you haven't had a cat or a fox in the boot - literally taste it ..... tasteless - its rain (or could be in some circumstances air conditioning condensate, if its soapy (unlikely) its screen wash, if its sweet its coolant.... if its coolant - look at the coolant filler cap and see if it looks crusty - new one with a seal is circo 20 quid from OPC - seals are available separately - but seems worth replacing the cap if its suspect.

12 minutes ago, phazed said:

When I had the exhaust system off, I did unplug and check the wiring from the bodywork to the connectors and all seemed fine. All I have to do now is remove them from the cats! They look like they have been in there since manufacture and the cats themselves aren’t in the best of condition being original …

Probably stating the obvious, but did you reconnect them when you put the exhaust back? I am suspicious that both are faulty with the same issue - the diagnosis in the response above is kinda pointing to an open circuit

1 minute ago, lofi said:

thanks @Paul P I have watched that and I am drawn to the alternator regulator (but only because I am still of the incorrect view that the charge rate from the alternator is wrong).  I have tried it without the alarm siren fuse in and still have an issue - BUT - I dont think I have left the car long enough to go fully to sleep given that doc says 35mins

Yes the sleep time in the clip seems short vs the doc - but one thing came to mind - when he swapped the alarm horn and retested he got the "something open" chirp - which wasn't there 1st time around - seems like a quick way to see if the alarm is at least on the surface healthy?

Did you pull the horn connection or the fuse?

There's several discussions around about charging voltage - here's one from pistonheads - with the interesting observation that OPC reckons the car will tell you if it thinks its overcharging https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=231&t=2012393

Good luck with the digging.

Also found this 

Don't know how applicable these are to either 981's in general or your car but from reading on here it seems good candidates for parasitic drain are:

The backup battery in the alarm siren - they die over time, and keep trying to charge themselves from the main battery,

Trackers - old installs that are now faulty 

PCM - given the short time the car will keep the PCM alive with engine not running - seems they are a "current hog", no unknown for them to fail to sleep

3rd part head units 

Regulator module of the alternator (might not be so simple in the 981 - but older models have been know to drain a battery "quickly" ) - I have used a (not on a Porsche) IR thermometer to look for "warm things" on a cold car - access might be an issue but it's a thought.

Another "trick" I have seen done ( again on older models) - if ifs possible force whatever scanner you have to ignore the fact the ignition is off then run an full scan - modules that are awake and shouldn't be might respond - may of course lead you down a rabbit hole - but it's another "tool" 

Oh and...

2 hours ago, lofi said:

Ok, so today's update. The battery is fine. Held charge overnight.

Does anyone have any research on the typical current draw for a sleeping 981?

Found this..... https://drive.google.com/file/d/16flsfkEJkzhEUH87LXl3zcFQ2xOFvrli/view?usp=sharing

12 minutes ago, lofi said:

Ok, maybe it isn't two different problems, but only one, and that 14.9/15v charging is ok (I just never remember seeing it that high). In terms of charger its a cTek conditioner thing. 

Do you mean the new battery has also died, i.e. your thought is that the voltage drop is a fault with the battery?  Maybe - I'll try Nobbie's suggestion and disconnect it and see what happens.

I guess the new battery could be faulty but i would be trying to “level the field” on the variables.  
 

when using the ctek it shouldn’t be direct to the battery.   It should be battery positive and chassis negative.  
 

Ideally the car should have been told it had a new battery.  Otherwise it will continue to charge the new one like it was charging the old one.  It doesn’t appear to be a good vs bad thing.  Many appear to have no apparent ill effects of not coding the battery and it’s unknown how far the “smarts” go with charging but if you are chasing potential charging issues then eliminating the doubt seems sensible.  
 

the test that @Nobbie suggests seems a solid way of eliminating the new battery as an issue.  
 

after that then perhaps a longer test of drain is needed.  For earlier gen cars I think it’s upwards of an hour before the car goes into proper sleep and that’s with the door and boot latches tripped to make the car think it’s locked.  

14.9 volts is within spec for an agm battery.   They have different charging characteristics and can take a higher charge especially in lower temps. They can go up to 15 and a bit.
 

not being pedantic but when you say trickle charger do you mean a conditioner - they are different things and living on a trickle charger with a constant “input” won’t be good for the battery.  
 

sounds  like the battery has simply died.  Ideally the car needs to be told it’s got a new one of you replace it.  It helps with the smart charging and the stop / start stuff.

when you connect the trickle charger do you go direct to the battery or via the “chassis” negative connection. ? 

Be a result if does include it but I would be surprised.  

The Russian source I mentioned earlier in the thread was charging 100 euros for the code on its own. 
 

3 hours ago, chris80chris said:

Another Sports Chrono query, I have noticed that ‘Sport’ button/function has stopped working?? The ‘Sport Plus’ is all as it should be though. 

I assume this a faulty connector somewhere or some other electrical gremlin. What you think?

Could be as simple as button not registering  - especially since the sport plus is working ( I think there are some scenarios where sport and sport plus are "locked out" - if the car thinks there is an abs or psm or possibly pasm issue) if you can get "nutter" mode, then "excited" mode should be available

 diags should be able to tell you if the car is seeing the button press or not - not sure about icarsoft/foxwell but I think durametric can and of course... piwis...

You say you cleaned and reinstalled maf.  ?  Did you try running the car with the maf disconnected ? The car will use a default map in that case.  If it runs fine the maf is faulty.  

Whereabouts are you?.  There’s folks on here with the kit who will “code for a beer” ( that’s been the driving force behind my entire it career )

..

Thinking out loud and please take this as "random bloke on an internet forum reckons......"

I just had a look at the generally available coding options for the rear control unit - there aren't many... spoiler is one of them, as is "roof mechanism new type"  and "vehicle type" - I have tweaked them for folks on cars when they have replaced the rear unit - but there's nothing in there for "boot closed detection" or "roof closed detection" - they are just things that the rear unit does - so, whilst I hear you that the rear unit hasn't got wet - this is presenting ( at least via internet diagnosis) as "fault" rather then "lost it's mind".

It has been known for rear units that have previously had a drink to fail down the line.....

So - here's my 2p worth - there's no software "reboot" for the rcu in PIWIS ( some modules have a "reset", not the RCU), so in the 1st instance - pop the bonnet (and stick a rag in the latch - just so you dont close it by accident) - disconnect the battery for 15 mins or so, then reconnect the battery.

You will likely get the usual "PSM" and possibly drive off assist errors - a run around the block clears those, and you will need to reset windows top and bottom ( open the window all the way, let go of the switch, then operate it open again and hold for 5 seconds, then repeat for closed, and for the other side).

If that doesn't change the state of play with the RCU - then i suggest pulling the unit, and having a look inside to see if there's any historic signs of corrosion - give the connectors a clean with contact cleaner while you are there.

If no progress, then as others have said - it needs to get plugged into something with Porsche smarts for some diags ( PIWIS, Durametric, ICARSOFT, Foxwell VT530 or similar). PIWIS for preference since that can run the handover reset which is worth a try.

Hope it's just a product of what happened and can be chased away ....

@Richard Hamilton any thoughts?