Paul P

6 hours ago, ½cwt said:

My 986 shims (same design) went again with no ill effects to date when I refitted all the old pads and discs after a full caliper overhaul last year.  Rear discs and pads to be changed this summer so I'll see what condition they are in then but the just clip into the pistons.

But they are supposed to be stuck to pads as well as clipped into pistons -  they reduce squeal by aiding pad retraction - rather than but stopping the "vibration" like the anti rattle spring type ones - all for using them again - but you need some decent double sided tape ( @T911UK linked to some once on amazon) to stick them to the pads.....

Faulty brake light switch can prevent the car from engaging cruise - not sure the exact symptoma but end result is "no cruise"

The bl**dy shims are expensive and if you don’t know how old the pins and springs are then a new set is quite satisfying.  I would add a new set of caliper bolts - just so you know they are new and not slightly knackered and get new little screws that retain the disks - they are made of cheese and if you have to bully then out you don’t want to put them back.  

30 minutes ago, EXY said:

What was the resolution, I am guessing they didn't replace the tyres but modified the MOT Testers expectations 

They initially offered him 50% off the correct tyres. (No refund on the wrong ones because they were used !)

I think his robust argument with head office saw a resolution in short order.  

10 hours ago, Pinewood said:

Failed her MOT on front tyres.

 

2 x Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S ordered for next week

Mate had 4 new tyres put on his car (C4S) by Kwik-Fit, who then MOT'ed the car the next day and failed it because it was fitted with the wrong rated tyres for the car......

I got popcorn and listened to the speaker phone conversation over that little outage.

What are you reading the codes with ? And does the reference to PCM make any sense - do you have a replacement head unit. ?

Double lock from the fob should disable the interior and tilt sensor as far as I know - its does exactly that on the 987 - and I think I read the 986 is the same. 

I dont know if they are the same - but - you can check the parts listing ( downloadable from here https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/classic/genuineparts/originalpartscatalogue/) - and check the part numbers - 987.2 will be listed something like MJ 2009->  

(MJ - Model Jahre - Model Year) 

Welcome - suggest addling a rough location to your profile - will help down the line with recommendations or offers of help / loan of kit / diags etc.

21 minutes ago, duff said:

A quick question - How crucial are the "Guide Arm Covers"  (9875614450001C & 9875614460001C)?  Mine got pretty chewed up when I had the previous water ingress issue and had to pop the ball joints off and now just fall off every time the roof is raised of lowered.

Think there has been some previous discussion on these - from memory @Gutley did some tests - bottom line was "yes - they are there for a reason and if missing water gets in" as far as I remember it .

19 minutes ago, duff said:

Thanks for the pointers. 

The bottom of the door car is very much dry to the touch so I don't think that is the culprit.

Looking down in the footwell the dampness appears to start around the accelerator pedal, or at least that appears to be the highest part that is still damp. 

It is much wetter behind the seat but I am currently assuming this is due to the fact it is the lowest point in the cabin.

Taste test ?  If it’s sweet it’s coolant = heater matrix.  If it’s tasteless it’s rain or air con condensate.  (That’s usually passenger side on a 987. Condensate pipe gets detached. )

check the pollen filter (although again that’s normally passenger side )

Check the bottom of the drivers door card.  If that’s wet then it’s the door membrane / inner panel seal.  Also check that there are no trim clips missing.  They form part of the waterproofing.  
 

The seal at the stop of the door - where the glass sits isn’t waterproof.  Water will get past that.  There are drains in the bottom of the door but if the membrane is faulty (it’s actually a panel on the 987 - can be resealed with butyl tape if you don’t want /need a replacement one 

2 hours ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

We're all here to save money, so I'm happy to give that sensor a punt, just wish I could clear the code first, see if that works before throwing money away, seems odd that the sensor suddenly packed up. 

Your car. Money, choice. Of course. Personally think it’s not always cheapest being best value 

Also   I don’t think that a dash warning of something like that is the kind of thing that will latch a DTC in the control module  clearing codes as a 1st attempt is usually the kind of thing you do for emissions or check engine lights   You don’t “clear” a dashboard warning as such. But a code reader may tell you code 12345 - where that equals check this contact for this voltage and if x then check that switch etc   
 

as to the part  - 2nd hand part from the US , with postage and potential import duty. Seems like a gamble to me at 130 quid , what happens if it doesn’t work ?

Perhaps some of the uk specialist breakers have one. Worth a call to the usual suspects (9apart , Douglas valley ) 

18 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Well I can purchase the cruise kit for just under £330 including the cowel and wiring loom, so I can fit that then get it coded that's with design 911. Eurospares seem to be the cheapest for other parts I may need for washer bottle issue and pump. 

I would be very surprised if Design 911 were cheaper than OPC for the cruise kit - and of course they are known for advertising things they don't actually have.

7 hours ago, ½cwt said:

iCarsoft and Foxwell will read and clear, you need PIWIS, or for some functions Durametric, to code.

"Pedantic as a service"

 the Foxwell does some coding as well - haven't got one so can't comment on what works - but I know it can do it - because I have had to unpick some "self inflicted outage" done by someone with a one who was playing with the coding of the front control unit in a 997.2. I also know it can't do all the coding required for Cruise on a 987 ( neither can Durametric - they both appear to lack "cluster" coding capabilities. )

15 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Ah OK, just thought I'd ask before investing in diagnostics tool, just trying to save money longterm if possible. 

That's part of the "some coding" thing ( and cruise was the use case I was thinking about) - icarsoft doesn't do any coding ( at least the v2 doesn't - the v3 is a completely different unit - and maybe there's some features in there - but I havent played with one so have no idea) 

5 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Thanks again Paul, would either of these diagnostics tools allow me to programme retrofit cruise control into the car or not? Sorry for all the questions. 

Nope - I know for certain that the foxwell can't code all the modules required for cruise on a 987 - I dont think the duramtetric can either - you need to be able to code it in (form memory) the DME, the steering column and the cluster need doing and I *think* the foxwell can't handle the cluster coding. 

Just now, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Hi Paul

Price is bang on, just spoke to Porsche about price. Trying to get a diagnostics around here is proving harder than I thought! Mobile diagnostic wants £120 for full report. For that price maybe I should look at my own diagnostic tool. Any recommendations?

It is a bit of a punt as to the coverage of modules to be honest - I am lucky to have a PIWIS setup for the Boxster - so I don't have good 1st hand with the alternatives, that said - I know a few folks with the following units and they have had good results from them 

Foxwell NT530 would be my goto - but lots of folks have the icarsoft por v2 ( and I guess v1 and v3 units) and use them to good effect. There was a thread on here recently around a decent price from the distributor - however you may want to consider sourcing from amazon, because if it doesn't do the job for whatever reason you can return it.........

I have got the icarsoft "all manufacturer" equivalent of the v2 - great bit of kit and I have several cars in the family that I look after - so multi platform was required for me

I think the foxwell has the edge for porsche specific stuff - and even does some coding - but either device will probably pay for themselves over time.

11 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Anyone ever replaced a rain sensor? I've located the sensor behind the auto dimming mirror just wondering if the replacement sensor will be plug and play or a specialist job? TIA

What fault are you chasing? - You mentioned a warning message about the rain sensor in another post - guessing but  if the car is detecting a problem then there is likely a code logged - that might suggest a different course of action rather than replacement - are you able to get a code scan done ?

It looks like there's a sticky pad required for fixing it to the windscreen in addition to the sensor itself - seems to be about 400 quid inc vat for both parts (before any discount)

partnumbers 

sensor with wire set - 987 612 693 25

Adhesive pad - 000 043 305 24

Heard of brake light switch causing this a few times.   Not definitive of course but pretty cheap 1st attempt I would say.  
 

there’s a chance that a decent code reader with live values would “catch” the situation - or there may be some “implausible” conditions logged so it’s worth a quick check if you have access to a reader but I don’t have high hopes.  

my 2p worth 

They sound different.   

When I had one as a loaner I forgot all about the sound at the 1st roundabout.  Was a fantastic car to drive.  
 

I have a 987.2 with pse of I was looking to change to a 728 the sound it made would not even figure in my thinking   

13 hours ago, Craigmann36 said:

Thanks for all the help folks,

These are the remaining codes when I clear the ones of no concern;

8004

8005

8006

These relate to fuses A3 and A7 I am told.

Fuses are both fine and I am now stumped… I am useless electrically, it is fair to say. 
 

Any further advice greatly appreciated!

What modules are reporting those codes ?

Only reference I see (so far) to those numbers is the PCM ( headunit) - and they translate to 8004 - GSM antenna (phone) broken or shorted out, 8005 / 8006 - Satellite receiver error ( I assume related to US cars with satellite radio)... - phone unit is under the drivers seat ( UK car) - so possibly something going on there?

Your original problem was spoiler, boot and roof stuff - what happened/got fixed/went away between then and now - are those things still an issue?

5 minutes ago, Bradders59 said:

Would you really want Tiffany Dell or Jason Plato ragging your car to the redline and smoking the tyres sideways in the bends for a TV programme ?

No. 

But  it would be part of the agreement or it wouldn’t go ahead for me.  
 

  Don’t think I have ever seen them do that on similar pieces they have done with privately owned cars.  

I have pinged them an email.  If they bitw I will use it as an excuse for a day out and (another) experience I point have had without the car.  

59 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

999 631 302 90 - Black 1.2W Osram 2351MFX6 / Hella 8GA 007 997-121

Found these other equivalents for that one.... 

• BOSCH: 1 987 302 235
• LUCAS ELECTRICAL: LLB286THBL
• NARVA: 170273000
• PHILIPS: 12625CP
• RING: R509TMBK

From this link: https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/osram-9343647.html

And for Beige 1.5W Osram 2452MFX6/ Hella 8GA 007 997-141

• BOSCH: 1 987 302 255
• HELLA: 8GA 007 997-141
• LUCAS ELECTRICAL: LLB286THBE
• NARVA: 170483000
• PHILIPS: 12627CP

From https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/osram-9363427.html