Sanky

1 hour ago, Patt said:

I foolishly left a Smartop in Molly when I traded her in.

May have a spare standard relay in the shed, so will have a quick hunt later

I think there must be loads out there that have been left in and new owners not knowing.

On 3/15/2023 at 12:48 PM, edc said:

You can buy the Smart top second hand for less than this. 

If only you could still find them for sale in the UK, I'm on the hunt for one.

Check your front drains near the battery and the cabin filter housing seal.

@moneypit tell you friend to check for dampness underneath the passenger seat.

Just to rule out any water ingress issues issues.

1 hour ago, Loc986 said:

Hello all,

Had the car a good few months now and just spotted a tiny 1p sized rust bubble just below passenger side engine vent. Can’t believe I haven’t spotted it before and I keep there car covered and out of the elements.
 

Any ideas/tips on treating this for someone with basic DIY skills?

 

 

There is a piece of foam type thing around the inside of the air vent, that collects water.  Not sure what its for but, I ripped it an out.

Would there be any adverse affect of leaving the roof in the service mode for a period of time...say a month or so whilst I carry out some maintenance?

@RalphyBMWI have the below DANSK OE version fitted.

Sports Exhaust Rear Silencer, OE Style, Stainless Steel: PC1110072 | Heritage Parts Centre UK

I would the say it sounds slightly louder then the OE Porsche one.

Your welcome to have a listen if you are in Bradford anytime. 

Look great, but would use something like C5 wheel amour to protect them.  Your wasting your time with poorboys wheel sealant.

I would say the pedal definitely felt firmer after fitting the braided lines.  They were also a lot cheaper then the OE style ones for a set.

These are the ones that I fitted 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122635254225?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=63akh65fR-a&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=GQRbRO2MRhW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Or swap the eeprom from the old cluster to the new one.  That way all your data will be correct.

11 hours ago, Daboy3000 said:

As soon as I let go it goes back up, makes it really difficult to shut and even harder to MOT!

It’s the micro switch on the outside of the door module.  As has been said already replace the module or replace the micro switch.

When you open the door and window goes down a bit, does it stay down or does it go up soon as you let go of the outside door handle?

It was mentioned in my last years service that there was a misting around the rear of the engine, possibly caused by previous RMS seal failure.  Was advised to clean and monitor.

Which made me think about the question, 'how long should a replaced RMS / IMS flange seal last'.

I'll be doing this years service myself, so will have to see how its looking.

How long should one expect a replaced RMS or IMS seal to start weeping again?

Another vote for spyderperformance for the arms

1 hour ago, Elmer Fudd said:

Ok, so I've started on the o/s rear, got the camber/toe bolts out bearing nut is off and driveshaft is loose.

For the life of me I can't get the coffin arm ball joint to release even with heat and a splitter, which now means I'm gonna have to change the coffin arm cos it's split the boot. Also the pinch bolt on the strut carrier won't come out even though the strut is loose.

 

 

 

Oh the joys of the suspension refresh.

A good ball joint splitter works wonders.

If the drop links are seized in the strut, you may need to cut the ball joint end off.  Then use a 6 sided socket with an impact gun or a breaker bar to work it loose.

It’s true didn’t need to do some of the bits, but whilst I was in there made sense to.  like the front wheel bearings.

Did all this in the first lockdown, so wasn’t really doing much else. (Time well spent 🤣)

I do like a spreadsheet for seeing what I’m spending and where.

Here is a list of the parts that I replaced when doing the suspension refresh.  Probably didn't need to replace some of the fittings, was just my personal choice.

Front:-

Finally fixed, one of the wires was shorting to ground…thanks to all that helped 

So a little update, got used drives door lock as back up and took the one off the car.

The internals are different to the YT videos I put up earlier.  As there are only 3 micro switches inside and one on the outside.

All the switches meter out depending on what’s been done and is the same as the used.

Fault is still there, so will disconnect each door wiring from the A-pillar to eliminate if the fault is with the doors or somewhere else.  As I did mess with doors when I retrofitted the puddle lights.

Sorry, one more question.

If the car is locked and you unlock either the front or rear boot with the remote.  Does the car also unlock?

9 hours ago, Boxob said:

Can you post the link please?

Here you go

If you want to go into some real technical detail try this one, for a similar VW lock.

4 minutes ago, McDonald said:

Witchcraft revealed.

Hahaha, the fault definitely feels like it

Should be

Also found a YT video showing the inside of an Audi TT lock.  There are basically 4 micros switches inside it and 1 outside 

So a bit more investigating today.

The boot light and frunk lights, both use the  same one connection that also goes to the inside light (Consumer_Switched_Off). I have proven these seem to be working fine.

Also found a YT video showing the inside of an Audi TT lock.  There are basically 5 micros witches inside it.

2 of them are for lock and unlock

2 of them tell the car status for locked and unlocked 

And 1 on the outside of the module, that tells the car if it open or closed.

So going by this, it still could be one of the door modules.

More testing at the weekend, if it’s dry.

1 hour ago, Richard Hamilton said:

It can cause all sorts of gremlins, but I haven't heard of it doing what yours is.  I wouldn't rule it out though.  They aren't expensive to replace, and if it doesn't fix it you will have a spare....

I’ll add it to the list.

The 2001 circuit diagrams, don’t match to what I have with facelift O3 car.  As I have less pins in the door plug on the passenger side compared to the drivers side plug.