Sanky

1 hour ago, Richard Hamilton said:

I recall having a problem with a 986 a few years ago with very similar symptoms.  The alarm module had slipped into transit mode, and needed the vehicle handover routine to wake it up.

Something else to add to the checklist.

Could the ignition switch cause this issue?

24 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

Luggage space and interior lights are on separate circuits.  You show as 2003 on My Ride is it an '03 model year or and '02MY on an '03 registration?  I have the '00 and  '02 Alarm wiring loom circuit diagrams as a PDF if it would help, otherwise calling @Richard Hamilton.

Thanks, I have the circuit diagrams as a PDF.  Just need some pointers in the normal behaviour so I know where to look next.

Could do with a donor car LOL 

Can someone please tell me if the interior lights stay on if the car is locked and the front trunk is open?

20 hours ago, TROOPER88 said:

9 pin and ONLY use genuine Porsche.

And no, you can not guess which side it is hence why I said you need the correct diagnostics. 

Sometimes there are tell tale. signs such as window drop issue etc but not always

So had it diagnosed today at Performance Porsche.  Not sure what tool they used, but the door lock modules are responding as they should with the diagnostic software.

Think I might have to manually check the wiring in the doors one at a time.  But going to try disconnecting the battery first and see if it makes any difference.

Does this part look right, not ordered from AUTODOC before.  So a bit feedback would be appreciated as well.

https://m.autodoc.co.uk/metzger/13819128

46 minutes ago, iborguk said:

There seem to be plenty of 986 module options on the Bay of E for not too much money.

Yeah there are plenty cheap ones in eBay, just not sure which is the correct one.  As some have 7, 8 and 9 pins.

Might just pick one up from OPC, as I don’t fancy removing then finding out it’s the wrong one.

Unless someone can point me in the right direction for one 2003 Boxster

20 hours ago, TROOPER88 said:

I have replied to the OP on FB.

I think his problem will be the door lock module.

So left the car unlocked and the front open with a trickle charger.  All lights went out after a couple of hours.  So the problem is with the door lock module.

I’m thinking the drivers side, as it’s the one that’s used most and the fact the passenger door hasn’t been opened in awhile.

So next question, are the VW door lock modules any good?

10 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

No.

I do not think so. If you unplug one of the modules, you will introduce other alarm/central locking issues.

As per FB, have you got Durametric or access to it or PIWIS?

If so, it will probably come back with a lock synchronisation fault but only PIWIS will be able to tell you which side is your culprit. 

Got a hooky durametric, but it’s a bit flakey at times.

Might have to give it in for diagnostic at specialist.

7 minutes ago, TROOPER88 said:

I have replied to the OP on FB.

I think his problem will be the door lock module.

If I disconnect the plug one side at time, would you expect the interior lights to go off?

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Moisture (or at least corrosion resulting from) in the alarm control unit under the passenger seat was found to be the source of my interior lights problem, but this was them not working at all....

Not sure, as there are 2 connections for the interior lights that come from the alarm module.  But they also power other stuff that are working.

Will try and disconnect the door lock modules to see if it makes any difference.

Or I could just use it as ambient lighting 🤣

1 hour ago, edc said:

Does the door microswitch trigger the turn off light sequence?

Not sure what you mean.

So went for a drive this morning, and noticed my interior are not going with the engine running.  Or timing out when you close the door.

They do go off if I lock the car.  Looking for some pointers, before I go studying the circuit diagrams.

Also, can’t recall if they are meant to fade out once the car is locked.  As they are just going off now.

I’ve got the OEM glass roof, don’t see any restrictions getting access to the engine bay.  As long you open it 40cm as the manual, the glass just folds back on it self.  It also has nice strap that you attach to the side of the roof to keep it in position whilst your tinkering.

8 minutes ago, Lennym1984 said:

You could just take them out, clean them, and retorque them in you are worried (although for that amount of effort, you may as well replace them as well

That would have been my thought as well, if I’m taking them out might as well replace them all. 

Think I will just leave them and just do the major service with a brake fluid change which is also due this year.

Thanks for your feedback, think I will leave the spark plugs until they reach around 10k miles or if I get any misfire issues or the coil packs are cracked.

I am concerned about them seizing, but I’m sure I applied some copper slip on them at the time.

After bit of maintenance advise.

Its coming up to nearly 4 years and 7K miles since I last changed the spark plugs coil.  Should I or would you change them again with the up coming major service due this year.

Or maybe just do the sparkplugs?

These videos might help removing the needles.

and this one, even though it’s for a TT but a good tip using teaspoons to get the needles off

If you are swapping the dial faces anyway, you could use a 2.7 cluster as long as its the correct one.  I can't see there been any differences in the stepper motors and all the Cal values that make it an S will be on the PCB with eeprom which you won't be changing.

On a different subject, where did you get the yellow face from?  I am looking for some replacement gauge faces for my 996 cluster swap, want the Oil and Volt gauge faces in the Boxster font.

Yes you will need to remove the door card, and peel back the door membrane.  The handle is held in metal casing with 2 10mm nuts.

On 11/10/2021 at 8:42 AM, T911UK said:

Just to clarify when I use the term OEM it means Original Equipment Manufacturer, ie; a manufacturer who makes parts for Porsche. 

They may not make that specific part but make other parts, as an example Textar supply many brake pads sets to Porsche, they dont supply discs but I would describe Textar discs as OEM

Genuine Porsche means just that, ie; the same part as fitted to the car at the factory, from Porsche, in a Porsche box or bag with a Porsche label on it

I think most people use the OE term meaning Genuine Porsche too?

I dont think Autodoc sell Genuine?

Im sure all Genuine parts are cheaper from OPC than D9

 

 

I agree with OEM 'OEM it means Original Equipment Manufacturer, ie; a manufacturer who makes parts for Porsche. '

But don't agree with Textar brake discs been OEM, as they are not supplied to Porsche by Textar. 

My thinking with parts is...

OE is Original equivalent part, basically other another brand

OEM is the Original manufacture for the part

And Genuine is just that, a genuine part supplied in Porsche packaging.

13 hours ago, edc said:

Don't forget these are not original spec and are a mod so would be frowned upon by the purist beards 😜

Its been endorsed by Porsche, so should be okay 😁.

I am more of an OEM+ kind of guy.  I have done a fair few mods to my 986, but mainly retro fitting options out of the Porsche option bin.  No idea if its increased the value of the car, but I like it and It gives me something to tinker with/

On 10/9/2021 at 7:36 AM, ½cwt said:

'03 Boxster is listed in your My Ride, with glass window??  Didn't come in until '04 model year so August 2003 onwards manufacture.  Is it an after market hood or is you model year wrong or has it had on '04 hood fitted at a later date?

The glass roof was fitted to all facelift models, which I think came out in 2002.  

On 10/10/2021 at 11:14 AM, Steve-986 said:

Can any of you tell me the part and hopefully the part number of the usual part that breaks on the handle?

What's it not doing?

On 8/27/2021 at 6:25 PM, Goody1664 said:

Thanks sanky, just had a look and two screws missing and the third is incorrect (without the washer bit) which is why it was falling down. 

It’s a big plastic headed screw, no washers on it.  I’ll try and post a picture of the ones mine has.