Lennym1984

I have had polybushes on my Cayman for about 3 years in which time I probably did ~30 track days. I have had no issues whatsoever and no cracks. I believe the snapped arm you are referring to was the tuning fork - this is a ball joint not a bush and so swapping the ball joint for a bush (of any material) will create issues.

On the road I have had no squeaking or issues of any sort. Yes there is a little more vibration in the cabin (it's the kind of high frequency vibration you get when driving over rough roads) but it is not an issue.

I no longer use my Cayman on track but will keep the polybushes on regardless.

Are they made of fibreglass? If so I would think carefully about fitting one. Splitters get bashed and whilst fibreglass is strong, it will crack quite easily on impact

I would add more camber and a set of semi slicks. Tyres alone are not going to solve the problem. I have the Powerflex bushes on my Cayman and have the geo set at -2 degrees all round. It's fine on the road and excellent on track. If you are really pushing though, you will still wear the outer shoulder - it's just the reality of running "normal" amounts of camber on a macpherson strut car. 

AR1s, Yoko AO52 (I think) or Dunlop Direzzas are the best semi-slick tyres in my opinion. R888s are okay but take a long time to warm up (personally I wouldn't bother with R888s unless they were a control tyre and I had to use them). The NS2R is more road orientated and probably a better compromise if you need to drive to and from the track (I have used R888s and AR1s in the wet on my race car and they were fine if a) there wasn't standing water and b) you could get them hot but when cold and through puddles, they were useless).

If you really want to have fun though, try a set of slicks. They are the tyre equivalent of crack cocaine!

On 8/11/2023 at 5:04 PM, Menoporsche said:

Portable jump pack then. 

I bought one of these for my race car and it is genuinely the best £50 I have spent in ages. I have since bought a lithium battery which I remove each time (it weighs nothing) but the jump pack saved me on a race day when my Varley battery gave up the ghost.

I had the Zestino Gredge tyres on my Cayman and they were okay but didn't last long before blistering on the edges (and that was with -2 camber all round).

I have AR1s for my race car and they are great and much better than the R888Rs they replaced. They're about 2s a lap (of Castle Combe) slower than slicks but get up to temperature quickly and are fine in damp weather

MRF ZTRs are supposed to be very good but as semi-slicks go, the Yoko A052 seem to be extremely well regarded

23 minutes ago, EXY said:

That's an interesting point.

My single cylinder 250 4-stroke trials bike will happily run on 10 year old fuel which certainly isn't E10.

Will winterised sports cars begin to suffer from stale fuel.

Once again, I haven't personally experienced any issues but I think that the higher ethanol content allows it to absorb more moisture? Having too much fuel would be a nice problem for me to have!!

4 hours ago, JonSta said:

The reason it doesn't 'pink' (haven't heard that expression in donkeys) is the ECU senses the issue before you and retards the timing to prevent it. The ECU has a range of settings it can use depending on fuel, temperature, use, altitude and lots of other stuff. Retarded timing leads to reduced performance whether you can feel it or not - just like not having a front strut brace. 

Yeah I get it - I was responding to the poster who said that their car started pinking after using 95.

For optimal performance, super is obviously the way forward... But, you can't drive any fastish car flat out on public roads and so in real life the difference is going to be negligible and certainly nothing to worry about. 

LIkewise with E10. Yes on an old car it could create issues (I have first hand experience of ethanol eating through fuel lines on an old VW camper) but the 986 onwards were designed with this use case in mind and so it isn't an issue.

The only concern I'd have with E10 is storage

1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

Can run on 95RON E10, but Porsche still recommends 98RON.

Yes but it isn't going to start pinking (assuming that everything else is operating correctly) on 95 or E10. The knock sensors are there to adjust for that and the fuel system has been designed to accept E10. I'm not disputing that it'll make more power on 98+ but I am disputing that running a mass-market, consumer product on standard fuel will cause any untoward effects. The OPCs fill cars with 95

2 hours ago, MichaelL44 said:

When BP 95 E5 changed to E10 my 2.9 987.2 started pinking. No pinking with Shell V Power, when in France I use whatever 99 is available, usually supermarket and it seems fine.

The 987 is fine to run on 95 and E10 fuel. Perhaps it was coincidental?

https://www.porsche.com/uk/aboutporsche/pressreleases/pcgb/?id=2011-05-23-classic&pool=uk

12 minutes ago, EXY said:

Mrs Exy can tell the difference between Super-unleaded and standard which in NI is probably 97 v's 95 in her Rover 100 which I did find surprising.

Not from a Performance or MPG viewpoint but simply the car felt smoother and less Jerky AND she noticed this without any knowledge I had refilled with different fuel, Mrs Exy doesn't refuel her own car she has a butler

Can't argue with that! Judging by the fuel gauge in my wife's car, I think she would struggle to tell if it even had fuel in it

1 hour ago, Bike Loon said:

Would you buy a race horse and feed it on cheap hay?

I bought a race CAR and feed it on 95 RON pump fuel. It doesn't appear to have done either my results or the car any harm.

The engine in a 987 is optimised to run on 98 RON but is perfectly capable of running on 95 and I would guess that the power lost through a change in the ignition timing is going to be imperceptible in road driving.

I often use 95 RON in my Cayman and really cannot notice any difference. I've also used 95 RON on track days in the Cayman (the nearest station to Castle Combe circuit doesn't have premium) and still put in the same lap time.

Hi

I used cheap LED versions from Amazon to replace mine and in all fairness, they have been better than the originals (and at £15 for a set of two, far cheaper to replace!)

Shared album - Leo Meakin - Google Photos

I had to make a bracket but for that I just chopped down a few angle brackets. I also opted to fit the correct connectors so as to make it reversible. The connectors were generic so I just bought cheap chinese ones.

The sidelights are the outer rings and the fog lights are the inner bit

1 hour ago, phazed said:

In the real world, no one would be able to tell the difference in performance inbetween 99 ron fuels available regarding performance.

If you were going to be really picky, then the question would be, “is supermarket fuel as good as the main suppliers and will it do my engine any harm if not “.

You will never tell the difference in performance if that is what you are after. A bit like strut braces.
 

I'm not convinced that anybody would be able to tell the difference between 99 and 95 RON in the real world... The difference in performance is probably less than 5bhp.

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

I invested in a Makita with a 430Nm rating on their 18v LXT battery system.  It still doesn't touch some bolts.  Just last week, the front tuning fork M18 bolt.  Only 180Nm tightening torque (I last fitted these in late 2020 and no one else has touched it since) but I still had to break it to start with by hand with a breaker bar, then spin it out, I still often have to crack off some of the wheel nuts which are only done up to 130Nm.  You're north of £250 for a decent high torque battery impact wrench even without a battery and £400 upwards if you want the battery system to go with it.

Take a look at Screwfix as a starting point, just search on Impact Wrench.

My Dewalt was (according to my emails) £245 all in (including a 5ah battery and a charger) and it has 950nm of torque. I bought it to do the hub nuts (which I think are torqued to around 400nm) and it removed them as if they weren't even there.

My recommendation when going for an impact gun is get the most powerful one you can afford. People claim that the more powerful ones are less wieldy (due to the size) but in my experience, if you can't get a big one in there, you probably won't get a small one in either. The DeWalt feels like bring a bazooka to a knife fight - I love it.

I have a Dewalt DCF899N and it is thoroughly brilliant. I have a smaller gun I use for Trackdays/Racing but for the big stuff, the Dewalt never lets me down.

I have a geared differential (which I think is the same as a TBD) on my race car (not a Porsche) and it's great. As Map says there are cons of this type of diff but even in race conditions (as in, running kerbs!) I haven't experienced anything untoward.

In comparison with the plated diff my friend has, the TBD is much quieter (silent) and feels like a lot less hassle (he is always having to mess with it). 

S rear brakes are the same diameter as the 2.7 brakes. The fronts are marginally larger but not sufficiently so that'd you'd really notice

On 3/18/2023 at 6:20 PM, Paul P said:

Spyder wheels, followed by the Carerra Classics and apparently not a lot in between the two.

I think the Spyder wheels are the lightest 19" wheels but not the lightest 987 wheels in any size. I would assume that 17s are probably lighter 

Could you run a catch can setup? Don't ask me how to plumb it in but it may be something the racers do

I'd spend my money getting more camber first. Otherwise you'll destroy your tyres. Powerflex Adjustable Camber bushes are a sensibly priced way to do it and get you around 0.5 degrees of extra negative camber.

10 hours ago, Boxer boy said:

It’s the stop adjuster a worm screw + peg it loosens and the peg rattles .You will see it when the cards / inners skin is off .

Thank you!! I've been looking for that rattle for about a year now. 

22 hours ago, Boxer boy said:

It’s a tiny screw ( vertical looking ) on the window regulator.

Do you have a photo or diagram you can point it out on? It drives me mad

If it makes you feel better, my 987 Cayman (which in fairness is polybushed) has the same door rattle you mention. I've had the door cards off, the glovebox, behind the glovebox etc and cannot find anything wrong.

I put together my own adjustable rear toe arms for about £80-90. They're still on the car now and have done probably 15+ track days since I fitted them.

The hardest part was finding a suitable turnbuckle but I may still have a few in the sets that I bought. You then just need a front toe arm and a decent rose joint with a left handed thread.

The ones I put together were similar in design to the Cup arms albeit with a better adjusting mechanism.

3 hours ago, map said:

This may well address the rear axle slip you mentioned.

It sounds as though the car’s rake has altered which will affect the geometry. Get that sorted and see what the result is. 

Ah missed that!