Lennym1984

Rear wheel balance I reckon

4 hours ago, map said:

Used to work for the railways and because of what I did was Fire Trained across all the then available extinguishers and fuel types.

The first few 1sq m 5cm deep trays with some petrol being set alight and then learning to extinguish that are almost life lessons and gave me a very healthy respect for fire. The kick from the Railway specced extinguishers is etched in my mind and was like shotgun recoil.

Some years later I drove into a service station on the M6 and saw a car with smoke billowing from the grill, a bunch of folk standing too close with an array of extinguishers all doing nothing.

Fortunately I knew what to do and grabbed the largest suitable extinguisher, then the next and those two put the fire out. Clearly it hadn't really got hold but no doubt it was well on its way.

Why post this?  

Well it's great to have the gear but in this instance bloody dangerous to have no idea - open the lid and see what happens to the fire with the inrush of air. Appreciate that’s almost impossible with a Boxster but if you’re thinking about doing the same for a front or rear engined car please think again…

So by all means purchase whichever extinguisher you feel best suits your needs but more importantly learn how to use it and practise setting it off once in a while - then buy a replacement...

I think that is supposed to be one of the USPs of the "Firestick" extinguishers. You basically set them off, chuck them in, and stand back (ie. no bravery/skill required). If a Boxster was on fire, I think you could probably slide one under the engine (from below) and hope for the best

2 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

They do if you try an engine conversion  

Otherwise, I don’t remember any on here. 

If you take them on track a fire extinguisher is probably sensible. If the PS fluid overflows, it can ignite.

1 hour ago, Chigley said:

Has anyone fitted or has suggestions on where to fit a hand held fire extinguisher on a 987.1 without the BOSE equipment fitted. The frunk seems the logical place but I don't want to drill the bodywork for a permanent fitting.

You want it within easy reach so I'd be looking for a spot inside the cabin. The seat mounts seem like the obvious place.

Short answer is... No, not quite. 

They are slightly too small but you can kind of pre-tap them with an appropriately sized screw. 

You don't really want to be forcing them on as the underbody studs are prone to snapping

Whilst you're in there, you may want to check the actual hub assemblies. These can be bent or have manufacturing tolerances that will create a difference

11 minutes ago, edc said:

What the point of a PPI if an amateur car buyer picks this up but a paid for service doesn't? Was it the buyer that saw the fault or did it get picked up at a later service? I'd rather miss the report than a bad respray 🤣

I believe that the buyer picked it up when the car was delivered but as I say, it was just something that I saw on FB and I don't know all of the details.

I'm personally not convinced about the value of a PPI on something like a 986/987 - I'd rather just do my research and then turn up with an inspection light and a mirror... or just buy one from a well respected dealer/main dealer

17 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

 

Water pump leak??

That would be towards the bulkhead not the gearbox. 

10 minutes ago, Scubaregs said:

Can't seem top be arsed to do the report, or be arsed to respond to clients once he has their money. 

Being very cynical, perhaps by not providing the report he is protecting himself (albeit in a slightly roundabout way) against any come back on faults missed? I have no dog in the fight but I did see somebody on one of the FB groups saying that he had missed the fact that a car (a 981 Cayman I think) had been subject to a full and poor respray with blistering all over. Thankfully that buyer got his money back from the seller

Did you change the droplinks? They make more of a knocking noise than the coffin arms

ECP sell them (I know because I needed some at last minute the sunday before a track day)

1 hour ago, 818 said:

 

I have a chinese resistor for the rad packs in my shed somewhere. You are welcome to have it for the cost of postage but...They only cost me £1.39 each (a couple of years ago) so probably cheaper to just buy your own. Do not waste your money paying for the porsche one - a resistor is just a resistor (assuming that the wattage and resistance are the same).

I have a tyre plug kit. I have the goo in my other car and the one time I needed it, it was totally useless and wrote off an (expensive) tyre 

27 minutes ago, ATM said:

From 987 to 986 - No.

 

Thats why I transferred the 986 buckle from the 986 seat to the 987 seat.

Do you still have the 987 buckles? If so do you fancy selling them? 

1 hour ago, ATM said:

Yes same

 

Thanks. Are the plugs for the seat belt warning thing the same? I'm trying to set it up so that I can literally undo 4 bolts, plug in the harness and be on my merry way 

Hi, 

Slightly random question but is the seat bent recepticle (the female socket that the male seat belt buckle fits into) the same on the 986 and 987? I want to be able to swap my bucket seat with my standard 987 seat more easily/quickly so am trying to source a spare seat belt recepticle (and seat wiring harness plug). As with all things porsche, that is easier said than done but there appears to be more 986 ones available. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated

@ATMperhaps you may know given your recent swap

13 hours ago, hopz121 said:

That’s a valid point, also some octane booster as some of the small places don’t sell premium unleaded. 

It won't hurt to run the car on 95 RON E10. It will simple revert to a slightly lower map. I have run my Cayman on track (so 200 miles at 5k RPM plus) on 95 RON and it has been perfectly fine.

Obviously my preference is always for 99 but if you can't get it, it really isn't going to matter or make any difference that you can actually feel.

Awesome thanks. I'll get some bought

3 hours ago, phazed said:

No, 265/35/18" Slightly smaller in Diameter but to be honest, didn't notice any difference.

Let's face it, when hammering around a track, a couple of mph in each gear is immaterial!

Have you kept the fronts at a 40 profile? I'm not bothered about the gearing but had heard that it could upset the traction control (even if you turn it off). It sounds unlikely to me but you never know

3 hours ago, phazed said:

I run a set of 18" Toyo R888's on my Boxcart. Probably the best tyre you can get, grip really is awesome, (and I hate using that word!).

DId you manage to get the correct rear size? 265/40/18? The issue with things like NS2Rs (and the equivalent) is that they only do a 265/35.

2 hours ago, brillomaster said:

could give some of these a go...

https://tirestreets.co.uk/products/accelera-651-sport?variant=31649671905365

i used to like federal 595 RSRs, but they seem to have stopped making them. Nankang NS2Rs are also quite popular, but possibly not quite the size you're looking for.

They don't do the correct rear profile. The 595s were going to be my choice but as you say, it looks like they are no longer made

2 hours ago, brillomaster said:

could give some of these a go...

https://tirestreets.co.uk/products/accelera-651-sport?variant=31649671905365

i used to like federal 595 RSRs, but they seem to have stopped making them. Nankang NS2Rs are also quite popular, but possibly not quite the size you're looking for.

They don't do the correct rear profile. The 595s were going to be my choice but as you say, it looks like they are no longer made

Hi,

Has anybody found a good, reasonably priced track day tyre in 987 18" sizes (265/40/18 and 235/40/18)? I've kind of outgrown road tyres on track but am struggling to find any road legal track tyres in the right size.

Any recommendations or pointers?

Cheers

The new Bridgestone potenza sport tyres are getting good reviews. That's what I plan to try next