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Lennym1984

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Posts posted by Lennym1984

  1. 58 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

    For the tiny drip I had I did contemplate pulling the hose and applying Some Loctite 577 pipe sealant and I know that would cure it but was I just putting something off?

    I tried some self amalgamating tape but it felt like a bodge

  2. 17 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

    Bottom will be easier with top out of the way, so you are going to be doing both, if you follow my tips and you are handy, no need to drop subframe, not overly difficult just awkward and will take a couple of hours, factor in dropping subframe no brainer , more a pain than owt, under tray etc

    Awesome. Once the parts have arrived I'll make a start

  3. 45 minutes ago, bally4563 said:

    Mine was only a tiny drip on the return line, so the top pipe.

    Same! I've lost probably a table spoon of coolant but I can't see it getting better and I'm not totally confident in it holding up on track etc.

    I think I'm going to do both so will tackle the bottom one first as you suggest.

    Was it hard to get the old ones out without dropping the subframe?

  4. 19 hours ago, bally4563 said:

    Coolant cross pipe done.....what a faff!!! Can understand why they drop the subframe, however it is not a requirement, if I did it again it would be easier once you’ve sussed the technique.

    Hi,

    Like you, my new pipes began to weep after reusing the original cross over pipe and so I have ordered new ones.

    Would you be able to share your technique, watch outs etc for fitting the new ones without dropping the subframe?

    Cheers

    • Like 1
  5. 27 minutes ago, mat1 said:

    I do seem to remember talk about Caymans having a much noisier/boomier interior. Apart from not being able to put the top down that would be a show stopper for me.

    Yeah that is true. It's not too intrusive but on some roads it can sound like the helmholtz resonance you get when you have only one window slightly ajar.

    Teasing aside, they are both great cars and the difference between them in terms of handling is minimal. Given the fact that used Boxsters are cheaper than Caymans to start with, unless you really want a tintop or are planning to do a lot of track driving, I think the Boxster is probably the better overall proposition. I had already owned a Boxster (which I thought was fantastic) and do a few track days a year, so for that reason, I wanted to go with a Cayman.

     

     

  6. 18 minutes ago, rhys57 said:

    To keep these cars looking and running as hey should you need to spend the money 

    I think they can definitely be kept in top condition on more modest budgets but as somebody else said, if you can afford it and it makes you happy, why not. 

    • Thanks 1
  7. 1 hour ago, Glosrich said:

    Yes Cayman's are better than Boxsters.

    Having now owned both, I have to agree!  I do love the Boxster (and the top down element is fantastic), but the Cayman chassis (even at road speeds) just feels better.

  8. @Davey P when you put it like that it doesn't sound too unreasonable and it sounds like you have a nicely sorted car now. The crossover pipes will eventually need doing on my Cayman but I'm planning to rent a lift and do it myself alongside a few suspension upgrades (makes sense to do them all together given that it'll need an alignment) 

    • Thanks 1
  9. Wow! I thought my 3k over 2 years was a lot on my 986 (mainly track upgrades), 4k in the first two months sounds hard to swallow. Do you mind me asking what you had done? 

  10. You can buy tuning fork bushes (if you do a Google there are a few "tuning" companies in the US that produce them) but in all honesty, I just wouldn't bother. The performance ones are quite pricey and I'm pretty sceptical that you would be able to simply "rebush" the arms. I *assume"* that fitting the perfromance ones requires the arm to be at least partially remachined and so they are probably only relevant to racing applications where budgets are a little more elastic

    I do agree that it is wasteful though. I ended up dumping two coffin arms (I removed them as part of a suspension overhaul and unfortunately ripped the boots getting them off) and felt very guilty about throwing away two big chunks of good aluminium.

     

    • Like 1
  11. I finally got my A/c regassed today after replacing both condensers and the drier. This concludes my "jobs" for the car and brings my total first year spend to about £1500 (which is a little leess than the 2k I had budgeted)

     

    Jobs completed since I bought it:

    1. Completed a full service with belts, plugs, and brake fluid (£220)

    2. Changed the brake pads (£30)

    3. Replaced the front fan resistor (at a refreshing cost of £1.36)

    4. Refreshed the front suspension arms (all of them) (£270)

    5. Changed drop links all round (£100) - I could have reused 3 of the 4 old ones but I figured I'd treat myself

    6. Replaced both Anti Roll bars and bushes with the thicker M030 jobbies (not exactly essential but hey ho) (~£325 all in for a new rear bar, used front bar, and complete set of bushes)

    7. Replaced all tyres with Toyo Proxes Sport (yeah I know they're not n-rated but they do the job just fine and they're better than the mismatched axles I had before) (£400ish)

    8. Replaced both front condensers and a drier (£100)

    9. Replaced an O2 sensor (I had to give up on that one and get the garage to do it) (£115)

    10. Fitted an airbag deactivation switch (1 crate of beer)

     

    Only the O2 sensor, fan resistor, and brake pads were actually essential to do (so a cost of about £150) whilst the rest were all done for fun/completeness. Given that it is a £20 year old Porsche and one probably wouldn't bother doing things like suspension arms and roll bars (unless they were causing an issue) on a 20 year old fiesta, I really don't think all of the scare stories are justified. Of course, if I had paid a garage to do this, the cost would be much higher but that could be said of any car.

     

    • Like 1
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