Lennym1984

I feel your pain. This happened to mine and in trying to get it off I managed to hit myself in the face with a breaker bar. In the end - like you - I had to cut it off... Which is difficult given the lack of space/access

Going back to the original question, I recently fitted performance friction pads to the front and mintex m1155 to the rear. The stopping power is genuinely incredible (it feels as though you are bending physics when you get on the brakes) and the improvement over more run of the mill performance pads (DS2500, m1144, bluestuff etc) is considerable. 

I'm yet to try them on track but I'll be at Thruxton in a couple of weeks so will update this post after that

4 hours ago, Dubdubz said:

last q for now 🙂 do the mintex pads 1144 or 1155 come with the wear sensor holes or do I need to do something here too?

No they don't. Just short the wear sensors out and check the pads every now and again. 

The rears *might* have holes for the sensors but the fronts definitely don't

9 hours ago, Dubdubz said:

Thanks Lennym1984, they are not as inexpensive as I had imagined, a quick search looked like 160 as the cheapest? And that was for fronts only…

 

Have a look on Kamracing... I feel like I paid a little less than that last year. A more budget pad is Mintex M1144. They're not quite as good on the road as the Ferodo (marginally less initial bite) but still pretty decent and about 100 quid. As above they are not great on track (dunno if that was a consideration or not as I haven't read the whole thread) 

Ferodo DS2500 are a good road pad. They have plenty of bite and aren't noisy. In my experience they aren't super great on track (they overheat and melt) but you'll never get them this hot on the road. 

Excellent thanks. I'll take a look into it

Does anybody know what the options are for an LSD for the 987 5 speed? At some point it'll need a new clutch (it's now on 111k on - I think - the original clutch) and I'm thinking that I may just go all out and get a lightweight flywheel and an LSD whilst the gearbox is off (I do quite a lot of track miles so this is mostly about on track performance).

I believe that it's an Audi 01X gearbox at it's heart but the options for an LSD seem fairly limited so if anybody knows better, please share your experiences.

@EscyI kind of feel like you may know the answer to this...

The new Potenza sports are terrible tyres so I'd probably drop these from your list. I swapped from Potenzas (which quite literally fell apart and shredded after less than a 1000 miles - 2 tyres) to Pilot Sports. The Michelins are far better and certainly worth the premium in longevity alone. 

In fairness I was using mine on track both times when they fell apart but I've never had tyres (including the old re05a Potenzas) wear like that. A recent video from tyrereviews(?) found the exact same thing. They were also not great in terms of grip 

6 hours ago, JonSta said:

I think the 981 is where it became something really special lookswise.

Weirdly, I have the opposite opinion. I like the newer Caymans/Boxsters for their performance but I think the 9X7 era was "peak porsche" in terms of looks. The newer ones look great but they have lost that distinctive "Porscheness" (ie. they could be from another manufacturer whereas the 9X7 could only ever be a Porsche).

That said, the only car I really lust after at the moment is a GT4... I'm seriously thinking of buying one (a 981 - I can't afford a 718) once our house move is complete

2 hours ago, phazed said:

 

 

I have been told that the X 51 sump doesn’t fit as stated above. I will have to have a look out for an aftermarket one.

 

It’s all go, just fitted a baffled sump to my track day Skoda. 

I was under the impression that the sump cover/baffle for an m96 was the same as for an m97. I was also told (by somebody on a track day). that he just fitted it without need to change anything around - this made sense to me because ultimately a 987 is just a 997 with the engine and gearbox rotated 180 degrees. The engine itself has everything in the same place. 

Why don't you have a look at the aftermarket sumps and see if they list a separate part for the 9x6 vs 9x7?

1 hour ago, Lennym1984 said:

 

On an older engine, the advice is sometimes to move to a thicker oil and so you would want to be looking at a 50w oil.

 

That should have read, 50 weight. Not 50w.

Hartech (who fix all the blown up Porsche engines) recommend a 10w50 oil. Cheddar Bob (who used to be on here and worked in the oil industry) recommended sticking to the manufacturers recommended weight. Me personally? I use a 10w50 racing oil and it doesn't appear to have done any harm. Like many things, everybody has an opinion on the correct oil to use.

My earlier post was merely pointing out that a 5w40 and a 0w40 will be largely the same viscosity once up to operating temperature and so unless you are planning to drive to the arctic, it won't make a huge difference (the UK isn't that cold). 5w40 tends to be cheaper than 0w40 if that helps...

I may be wrong but I thought that once at operating temperature a 0w/40 and 5w/40 had the same viscosity. I was under the impression that the W number is more to do with how well it flows in cold temperatures (an 0w flowing better than say a 10w).

On an older engine, the advice is sometimes to move to a thicker oil and so you would want to be looking at a 50w oil. 

For what it's worth, I use a 10w/50 in my car but I do quite a lot of track days and tend to change the oil regularly (probably twice a year or after every 4-5 track days).

54 minutes ago, Sanky said:

Thanks for your feedback, think I will leave the spark plugs until they reach around 10k miles or if I get any misfire issues or the coil packs are cracked.

I am concerned about them seizing, but I’m sure I applied some copper slip on them at the time.

You could just take them out, clean them, and retorque them in you are worried (although for that amount of effort, you may as well replace them as well).

The spark plug interval for my Jaguar is something like 9 years. These days, unless there is an issue with how the engine is running, the spark plugs seem to last a long time and look almost brand new when you do finally remove them. I did my 987 plugs last year (after 4 years) and they looked absolutely fine.

On the 987, I think Spark Plugs are every 6 years and so I cannot imagine that there is much risk of leaving the 986 plugs longer than the scheduled time.

As others have said, coilpacks are not a maintenance item and so I would only replace them once cracked.

I'm not really a fan of personalised number plates but there have been two which have made me chuckle...

"V14GRA" on a TVR Tuscan on the way to Goodwood and "V12 1 DAY" on a very mundane Ford Mondeo 

I also saw one which I think was supposed to spell out M3 SCOTT (the number was something like M3 52OTT but ended up looking like M3 SNOT. My five year old daughter really liked that one and wanted me to get a snot numberplate too

If you want to do the job once and do it properly, sand it back, paint it with Epoxy Mastic and then paint it with a touch up stick (you won't notice it there). Once dried, stick some PPF on it. Epoxy mastic dries rock solid. I did mine about two years ago and 10k miles (~3000 of those on track) later, it still looks the same as the day I did it.

Don't be tempted to use a bodyshop. They'd do a lovely job but it'll only happen again.

^^thanks! 

6 hours ago, Escy said:

I've got a fire saftey stick now, clipped under the passenger seat. 

What have you used to clip it in? 

1 hour ago, edc said:

I don't think you will find many pads which will have more initial cold bite. Most pad upgrades are aimed at stopping for longer and coping with heat better. A bigger disc will give more leverage and may give the feel of more bite at the top. 

Basically this ^^

Track pads tend to feel different from road pads but initial bite is usually the same or worse. Road pads will bite better from 100mph+ but then give nothing more whereas track pads will bite better once you have some heat in them (ie. Initial bite maybe worse but from 90-10mph will be much better). 

People who claim that they need better brakes usually don't... 

On 12/16/2021 at 5:44 PM, Bayernlarge said:

It's that time of year again for me. I was interested in Agreed Value cover as the valuation I got from PCGB is about £6k higher than Market Value prices I've seen when using comparison sites.

I tried A-Plan, but they couldn't help. They gave me the names of a few competitors to try though, which was very nice of them.

One company gave me a quote with an agreed value, but it was way higher than the best quote I'd got through a comparison site. 'Don't worry' the nice agent told me, we do a standalone Agreed Value policy for £75 which you can buy alongside a policy from somewhere else. This will cover the difference between market value paid out in the event of a total loss and the agreed value (as long as the AV is less than £50k). Sounded good.

So I bought the comparison site policy and called back the next day to buy the standalone Agreed Value policy. Unfortunately, I spoke to a different agent who told me the previous agent had made a mistake - the standalone policy is not available anymore. Frustrating.

Instead, they offer a standalone Total Loss protection policy for £49 which will pay out an additional 25% of the market value paid out by the main policy (up to £10k, again only in the event of a total loss).

This might be my only option, but it will still leave me a bit short of cover against the PCGB valuation.

Has anyone come across anything like this? And if so, could you share the name of the company you used please?

Cheers.

I would maybe take the PCGB valuation with a little pinch of salt unless you're car is something very unique. They tend to be a little optimistic versus real life selling prices (and thus "true" values). 

If the car is highly modified or in some other way vastly different from most on the market, then it does of course make sense to go with an agreed value policy. 

The option to give you +25% versus market value would probably allow you to get into a very decent replacement so perhaps that's a good option? What car is it and how much are similar cars valued at on auto trader (and the like)? 

23 minutes ago, Rav said:

Thanks @Lennym1984- Lee suggested the next thing was the MAF. I did think that it could be the coil packs, but these are quite costly to replace. I hope the MAF cures things but if not, i will be visiting the coil packs and spark plugs next.

 

Some have had success "painting" the cracks with epoxy. It could be a cheap way to see if it solves the problem. 

The cracks expand with heat and then suck moisture in

21 hours ago, Rav said:

I spoke too soon. Started her this morning after a well deserved snow foam, clean and wax and the same hesitation and stalling.....

New MAF ordered.

Apologies if this has already been suggested (and/or Cotswold Porsche have already checked) but have you given your coilpacks a look over? Mine did exactly what you describe when the coil packs were going. The cracks were tiny (only visible with the coil pack removed) but when they got wet they would cause a hesitation and stalling.

2 hours ago, BBB said:

When I was looking the Spyder Performance parts were out of stock so I fitted TRW.

https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod143759/Control-Arm-Lower-Rear-Porsche-Boxster-987---Cayman_2/

The fork part is easy to undo as it’s a through bolt, through the coffin arm. The bushed end is bolted into the subframe, so fairly easy to remove, but you may need a few extensions with wobble ends to get past the cables on one side. I found it slightly awkward to get the bush twisted back into position and it needed some gentle tapping to locate properly.

An impact gun with an extension is ideal for that chassis bolt. Obviously torque it up properly with a torque wrench once it is tight-ish

Didn't you post b this exact question the other day? Maybe I'm imagining it though

Edit: I'm not... 

1 hour ago, Raffe said:

All brake pipes due to corrosion, new brake pads front and rear, braided lines & dot 5 fluid

Hopefully you mean Dot 5.1? If they have put Dot 5 in it, I'd ask for it to be properly flushed and refilled with Dot 4 or Dot 5.1