Lennym1984

21 hours ago, fewtrees said:

Reminded me to post my adjusted and settled heights.. 🙂

348mm front
366mm rear

There's an occasional catch at the front but overall it handles the bumps very well and balance on exits is rear slip first. It's not as angled forward as it was but seems fine for the road..

As I've fitted coilovers (KW V3), setting the height was very easy 🙂 and there's plenty of range in there. Now to set the alignment again...

Are KW V3s 2 way adjustable? If so, how have you set the damping up? If it is slipping on exit (as in oversteering), you could try softening the rear bump settings. With 2 way damping adjustment, I reckon you could fine tune the 987 to handle spectacularly 

Textar pads are around £25 from eBay and are absolutely fine on the road. I've used a variety of discs but in recent times have been happy with mtec (which are around the £100 mark)

I've used Mtec discs in the past (and I think possibly the current ones are Mtec). They're absolutely fine and have stood up to many track days without any issue.

Most of the deep sump kits do come with better baffling but there are one of two which are literally just a spacer. 

I really need to do Cadwell. It always looks so much fun but it's quite a trek for me (especially now I have to fanny around with renting trailers and collecting the car from where it is stored!).

In terms of tyres, I was most recently using Zestino Gredge tyres which are a budget semi slick. I have the R888Rs on my Ginetta but haven't tried the non-R 888s. I'd guess that the Zestino tyres were similar (albeit not as good). 

I also didn't have any trouble with the AOS. On a hard track day (200+ miles of somewhere like Combe/Thruxton/Bedford) I'd maybe use 1 bar of oil on the electronic dipstick (my car uses no oil at all in normal driving) but other than the change in oil level, I didn't notice any other issues (obvious smoking etc).

As I say, my own personal feeling is that the people who had issues were those running very sticky tyres with very stiff suspension. The stock suspension is relatively soft in comparison to a race setup so that may limit the amount of G you can actually put on the sump. 

If you have the time, money, and enthusiasm, it certainly won't hurt to add a few oiling upgrades but I ended up concluding that I was comfortable enough with the risk of not doing it. 

3 hours ago, ½cwt said:

@Lennym1984 can you help?

Not sure that I can help much other than to say that I have had no issues on my 110k miles 2.7 Cayman. I think that many of the issues have come from people running them on slicks in hot weather at race pace (ie. Bouncing them off the limiter in a long corner). I'm by no means a mechanical expert but I think that the sump is reasonably well designed for a road car. 

I decided that I was okay with the risks and left the sump as is. 

Worth noting, but potentially even more controversial, I used 10w 50 motorsport oil changed regularly as my 'insurance policy' 

I just had a new one fitted by Auto Windscreens and - despite not being a Porsche OE screen (as far as I know) - it looks great and fits perfectly. It's nice actually being able to see out of it now 

Personally I wouldn't bother doing the rears. Even on a track like Bedford (a couple of big, high speed braking zones), the rears are not really an issue. The rear disc diameter is the same between S and Base but the S model discs are thicker. Therefore, unless you are overheating the rears, there is nothing really to gain from the swap.

7 hours ago, ½cwt said:

There is also the option of injecting polyurethane in to the current mounts.  Some on here have had success with this.

Or if you just get the mounts, the brackets should be good to go again.

This is what I did and after 2 years and many track days they are still going well.

On 5/16/2022 at 1:34 PM, gillbe said:

A day spent wrestling with front engine mount removal and replacement.  What a faff!  4 bolts secure the mount frame to the front of the engine - top passenger-side bolt is accessible via front engine cover, but have to lower the engine and gearbox to completely remove the bolt.  Bottom driver's side bolt required a second 16mm ring spanner purchase with less offset to access head for the first turn. 

Then try to get the whole assembly out past the two rubber coolant hoses - managed it, but as for the the replacement?  There was no way of getting that back in, keeps catching on another pipes release spring.  Finally gave in and had to disconnect a hose and catch half a bucket of coolant.  Refilling will be another day's job once the rain goes away. 

Then will be able to actually see effect if any of this change.  (having seen no obvious difference with the 12 year old part removed, I suspect I will be disappointed)

My advice, disconnect the hoses first.i

Bit late now but you shouldn't have to disconnect anything to fit a new engine mount. You do need to raise and lower the engine a bit but otherwise it should be reasonably straightforwards. I've done a few now and have not disconnected the coolant hoses

Also, was there not a screw as well as the 4 bolts? Might be that your mount has already been replaced in the past... 

Edit: ignore everything I have just said, I see yours is a 987.2. maybe the hose routing is different

I'm in OX29 and have an icarsoft v2. If you want to drive over one evening, I'll happily plug it in and see what comes up

The suspension height won't cause this issue (the subframe is not shorter/longer). Is your new car a PDK or are your gearbox mounts perhaps a little knackered?

25 minutes ago, NICTRY said:

Wait till you get the 'inside the drivers door rattle' now that will drive you nuts!

I have the "inside the passenger door rattle" and my god it is annoying. I've had the door cards off, the wing mirrors off, the glovebox out (etc etc) and still no cure. Mine is fully polybushed (I use it mostly for track days) but even so it drives me nuts. Thankfully, on a smooth track and with a helmet on I cannot hear it.

To the OP, 3rd gear should not be hard to find. It may be the cables but I'd probably start off by rebuilding the shift mechanism and then recentering it (you can buy a tool from Porsche which costs about £3). Take a look at the video below:

Thanks all. I have ordered one from ebay with the intention of fitting it whilst the other one is refurbed. 

Now I just need to find a breaker bar long enough to remove the axle bolts! 

1 minute ago, map said:

I looked at new driveshafts for my 986 following the power bump - advice was to buy used and have them rebuilt.  The metal parts have all been (a sort of) work hardened/de-stressed and rebuilt they make for better/stronger shafts.

It would be worth considering this approach.

Haven't done it myself as there maybe some transmission silliness in the pipeline.

Did you get any recommendations as to where to have them rebuilt?

The o/s driveshaft on my Cayman has decided to spring a leak. I initially thought that it was the boot but it actually appears to be a pressed metal piece which has rusted.

So.....

Where does one buy a replacement driveshaft from? I've looked online and Porsche appear to want over £1k and many of the used ones on eBay look no better than mine did. Is there an aftermarket supplier or a supplier of reconditioned parts?

Any help gratefully received.

6 hours ago, ½cwt said:

 997 341 483 92 Left

 997 341 484 92 Right

For some reason left is 4p cheaper than right on D911 but still only £3.38 +VAT each, so a pair will be about the same as the delivery cost!  Got to be the cheapest genuine Porsche part, by size at least.

Standard ones are about £24.39 +VAT each, know which I'll buy if I ever lose one.

Thank you. 

They're even cheaper from an OPC. Last time I paid 5.97 for both. 

As per the title, does anybody have the part numbers handy? Managed to smash one of mine at Thruxton today (turns out that going sideways through church at 110mph on to the grass does that - also turns out that I'm not Chris Harris after all!) 

54 minutes ago, Codfanglers said:

Do Sprint Booster do a similar box of tricks for the brake pedal?...

The Sprint Booster just tricks the throttle electronics. Such an approach wouldn't work on the hydraulics of the brake system. As you say, you'd need to start fiddling with the brake booster and/or MC. This would then introduce different compromises.

The GT3 MC (which I also have) improves pedal feel and travel but it doesn't affect initial bite. 

27 minutes ago, ATM said:

Someone elsewhere has recommended I try Akebono ceramic pads but I think these are only available form the US of A.  Which seems odd as they're marketed over there as Euro spec.

Ferodo DS2500 are the best road pads I have tried. They just don't hold up to track usage

1 hour ago, ½cwt said:

M1144 are effectively OE spec, so go with Textar, the Porsche OE provider.  Porsche signed off the car with fairly decent brakes as a sports car.  If you don't want compromises of more aggressive disc wear or better bite such as more dust with higher metal content then stay stock.

Agreed. For a road car, the OE pads are perfectly decent and have a lot less compromises. It's only when you get on track that they fall down. If you're not going on track, this won't be an issue

34 minutes ago, Simon said:

Please do not buy the EBC YellowStuff, they are dreadful - you dodged a bullet there.

S

I think EBC are just very inconsistent batch to batch. I had bluestuff and thought they were cr*p but my friend (who matches me well in terms of skill level on track) really liked his. 

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

 and low disc life too.  They are quite aggressive on the cast iron.  Good pads though, used them extensively at PalmerSport to highly tolerant of track day work.

Yeah it's a fair point but I guess that's the compromise. At the moment I'm doing as many track miles as I am road miles.

2 hours ago, earley231186 said:

Yeah mine was the driver's side luckily there is less pipe work on that side. But still very tight. Especially laying on your back. 

 

I've had to put a normal but bolt and washer on there at the moment as the Porsche locking plate is on backorder. 

 

I've managed to get it to the right torque setting and it's the correct size bolt etc. So hopefully it will be okay. 

I think the only reason for it being a "locking plate" is to make assembly easier (ie. so you can screw it in blind) so I would think that you'll be fine.

I got mine from Swindon OPC a few years ago and it arrived in a few days.

38 minutes ago, Tony Daniel said:

@Lennym1984Where did you order the Performance Friction pads from? I'm looking for something better for a 981

I got them from Tech9 Motorsport but I think there are various places selling them. I got quite a good deal because the ones I bought (27s I think) have now been superceded by a new model.

The performance really is impressive though. I haven't yet tried them in the wet but in the dry, it's proper head through the windscreen stuff.