pacificjuha

Took the car to Alastaro track. Now it is very much better planted to the ground and I can take fast corners with much higher speed than before. Also, before the track day, I did install new 225/45/17 front tires.

Hopefully I'll have the fully adjustable rear toe arms before next weekend, so I can swap those in and do a better full alignment same time as we install to my son's Golf MK2 a set of coilovers

Isn't the 3K rpm close to the rpm when Variocam activates? If yes, then this issue could be related to the Variocam operation - are the electric wire pugs to Variocam solenoids well connected on both sides?

The cam deviation should be read when the engine is properly hot - most likely driven 30minutes or more first. Then measure the cam deviation (I usually do not stop the engine, but keep it on idle stright from driving and measure then).

Cam deviation should not move with rpm change (minimal fractional changes you mention should be normal).

Cam timing actual values do change under load and rpm's. Those you can see large change as the Variocam changes the cam timing - sorry, I can't remember the rpm when Variocam does it's magic. On 2001 engine (5-chains) I faintly remember that the correct rpm's could be approx 2500rpm... please somebody correct since I'm most like off on this recollection.

Changed new tires to front, installed coilovers, lowered the car to 118mm front and 119mm rear, did the full laser machine alignment - yes, all this while learnig bunch of new stuff.

Shoud have scales and fully adjustable rear toelinks in a couple of weeks, so that time will do the corner weights as well... and re-do anything that does not feel right after test drive regardless that alignment report looks fairly fine for now.

Skipped the test drive due to surprise snow arrival yesterday and today 😬

If the fresh snow disappears, next weekend will be the first chance to test out the car on track (Alastaro) with new suspension and alignment.

On 4/19/2024 at 12:28 PM, Menoporsche said:

Is that "for an S", implying the cluster is somehow more complex?  Or is it just saying make sure you get the right cluster for the right engine, which makes sense, eg redline/max speeds are different?

The scale on the 'needle dial' is different between Boxster and Boxster S - like ½cwt mentioned above. That's why those are not an easy swap.

I have USA spec 2001 Boxster with 2.7 and manual transmission. Did not like the dials to be in Fahrenheiht / MPH readings, so I purchased 2003 cluster from EU spec 2003 Boxster with 2.7 and manual transmission.

Local indy reprogrammed the eeprom (??) inside the cluster. The eeprom had to be taken out from the cluster to be able to read and reprogram it with correct KM reading and also correct VIN info to suite to my car. Works like a charm now.

It was interesting, since I was allowed to look thru the whole process as he worked on my car's cluster.

He mentioned that if I would have purchased 'S' cluster, the work would have been more complicated and the speed dial (needle) would most likely not show the right speed.

Cleaned the radiators as a each springtime task - maybe not needed next year, since I also installed a metal mesh to protect the radiators from leaves and maybe some stones... Same time painted the grey fins at the radiator openings to black to match the black mesh.

Changed brake pads to Ferodo Racing DS2500 pads all around. The old ones were OEM repalacement Brembo's and the rear ones were looking reeeeaaaal bad - maybe heat from track use had caused this?

Front ones were not that bad looking, but had only 1mm left before the sensor hole would have been exposed.

We do all measures by Porsche Racing Club at the track while the limit is the one that track states and each time I have had to get my car db measured, it has been required to get done watith 4000 rpm. Hopefully this is the case on the upcoming season as well...

2 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

Out of hibernation now?  

Jes😎, we still have snow here and there (not on main roads), but can't keep from driving - has been in use three weeks now, while no top down driving yet😁.

6 hours ago, phazed said:

That is interesting. Would you say that the overall noise level has been reduced or has stayed the same?

Noice level is fairly loud - specially on high rpm's. Still measuring 92db at 4000rpk as it is measured on track (approx 1 m away in 45-degree angle and approx 75cm from ground).

Re-did the free flow style exhaust with addittional connection pipe after the backboxes. Also did a bit different hangers to the backboxs section.

Drone mellowed significantly and the idle sound is now deeper. High-rev howl is even a bit more fantastic than before the connection pipe 😇😁

I have now approx 1,5 years / 5500 km on summer only Brembo discs that still look pretty much pristine. Same age Brembo OEM style pads that have approx 1/3 thickness left on the center, but otherwise pretty much dead and falling in to peaces  & delaminating from corners - probably from track use.

Just received Ferodo DS2500 pads all around. I'll install those probably in two weeks from now. After that we'll see how those hold up and perform on street & track use.

One to remember - make sure to disconnect the car battery before doing anything around the starter. Sparks and some damage is almost for certain if battery is connected when working on the started at Boxster engine bay...

This video is a very good advice for the typical reason for the odd start up noice in 986's:

My friend drives at the track 991 cup car and has too loud exhaust on some tracks. To pass the 'sound check' on the track where noice is limited, he uses home made downpipes that looks like these:

https://soulpp.com/product/porsche-991-2-carrera-with-pse-bolt-on-exhaust-tips/

When the exhaust is directed towards the ground he has had no issues  so far.

Took the car from 'too long' winter hibernation for a fantastic couple hour drive and then washed it 😎

Changed the RMS, IMS flange seal, plugs, coils, oil and oil filter.

Getting pretty comfortable now on removing and installing the transmission...😅 It's still not that fun to do just for a sake of it

Six out of six coils were cracked, but not yet misfires nor CEL. With new coils and plugs the responsiveness of the engine is much better now.

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

If you buy one from Porsche for a 2000 car it will be the up-issued version ZS178.  The up-issue fixes a weakness around the mounting bolts holes so they are the full height of the coil on the revised version making them more durable. You can still order the earlier version ZS177, but why by 2 to 3 times more for a part with a known weakness?

The Beru parts come with new longer bolts the correct length so you don't have to worry about that.  You need an E10 female Torx socket.  Originals are a 5mm Allen bolt when you come to remove them.

I have fitted the BERU ZS178 coil packs to my 2000 Boxster S in the last few weeks including running for over 500 miles since with no issues.

 

Thank you again. Just placed order for those Beru coil packs among other winter service items, like 4 each wheel bearings...

2 hours ago, ½cwt said:

Breu ZS178 are the OE. About £15 each from Autodoc and are what I fitted to mine.  Don't be distracted by ZS177, this is the old part before Porsche up issued their part number, which are priced 2 to 3 times higher.

Thanks for this info, but.... Autodoc states that these do fit all 2002-2004 Boxsters - not earlier ones. Mine is 2001 2.7 and from the signature it looks like yours is 2000 S (obviously these work well on your car).

Do you know why is this that these are stated not the right ones for 2001?

2 hours ago, map said:

@markjh Thank you - appreciate this 👍

In terms of sounding like a bag of spanners: this only happens when the car is idling, in neutral with your foot off the clutch. It doesn’t do it at any other time. That said it’s not for everyone - mrs_map ALWAYS asks if it’s broken…..🤷‍♂️

With regard to revs/pulling away - there’s no need for extra revs or specific clutch technique..

Bear in mind that the LWFW is only one lighter part on my crank assembly.

The pistons and rods are all lighter than factory with the overall weight of rotating parts (flywheel/crank/rods and pistons) over 8kg less (on the scales) in my 3.7 than it is in a 3.2.

With all this 👆in mind the fact that I just drive it is almost certainly down to the much lower rotating mass being managed in the mapping

@pacificjuha the “bag of spanners” seems to be a universal invitation for petrolheads to start a conversation - an unanticipated yet cool consequence of that very distinctive sound.  Your posts on your car always get my attention 👏

Thank you @map, I do appreciate your vast knowledge that comes thru your posts always 👌

The 'bag of spanners' is in my opinion a spot on way of discribing the sound when LWFW M96 car idling on neutral gear with solid clutch plate. My friend has 996 GT3 where he has installed a LWFW / solid clutch plate that sounds just like that when idling on neutral gear 😁

I have the Aasco LWFW with Sachs sprung clutch plate (that Aasco recommends) adn it does not sound like a bag of spanners... I'd like it to sond like that, but purchased the sprung clutch due to recommendations from Aasco and several others who track tand use the same car on the street.

With equal lenght headers, 200cpi cats and free flow self made back boxes the rpm pick up is fantastic compared to stock 2.7 car. Have not yet done re-mapping, but will probably do so at the spring time (car still have to pass smog test with possible re-mapping...).

I do recommend the set up I have on my car. no issues at all on take off, just slightly more rpm's and let the fun start 😎

Washed the car and put it for winter hibernation... can't wait for the spring to arrive 😎

Couple of years a go I did change the AOS on my 2001 2,7 Boxster.

After the cars right side was up on the jackstads, engine top cover off and the right side rear wheel off, it took approximately 20 min to change the AOS. Only special tool I used was the remote clip removal 'pliers' and to install the new bottom hose I purchased from Porsche I used the blue color palstic clip install 'tool' that came with the new clip from Porsche.

Pretty staight forward DYI and not a hard to do at the driveway.

This is the above discussed reasonable priced valve in that rather expensive plastic line:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99611012906.htm?pn=996-110-129-06-M14&SVSVSI=784&DID=18538

The valve is very hard to try to fit in old hard plastic line, but can be done by using peace of for example same size coolant / fuel line with appropriate size adapter and jubilee clips etc.

Changed the clutch slave cylinder. Surprisingly easy DYI job.

On normal driving I did not notice anything wrong on the old one, but at the track with fast gear changes and plenty of those in short time period the clutch pedal stayed in the floor for a 1-2 seconds couple of times per lap.

Now the clutch works very nice with much improved precision compared to the original clutch slave cylinder.

Week from now is the next track day to really test this one out.

Old removed part:

New part: