MickH

Koni sports and 40mm H&R here. Love them. No issues apart from the most severe of speed bumps

1 minute ago, Del_tl1000r said:

I know mate. Been a bit preoccupied looking for a bike and it's too 🔥🔥. I don't particularly like cycling in this weather 

Went out at 8 the other night, conditions were perfect.  Nae excuses!

9 hours ago, Del_tl1000r said:

Made it a bit jealous!

 

 

HAHAHA!!!  I knew you would get a bike, last time we were on the road bikes I could tell its was going to happen, even though you didn't think so.
That looks lovely Del!

PS not seen much from you on Strava again!

A well known tuner ran a comparison on super fuels a while back. And reckoned the Tesco stuff was the best of the lot. 

Its my go to for that reason. Plus cost is a major consideration. 

On the couple of times Ive used Morrisons or Sainsbury's super (98) the car has ran cr*p

2 hours ago, box100 said:

‘ …as manufacturers design for least optimal conditions of their target markets. So if living in area with higher octane fuels (like in UK), this can be tuned in.’

This is a myth put about by those offering a remap, the ECU automatically factors in what octane is in use.

Don’t do it, Porsche know what they are doing a hell of a lot better than someone with a laptop in the back of a garage, also what if something went wrong with the download etc. 

This is incredibly ill-informed and complete nonsense. 

1 - We are talking about professional mappers. Not people in a back garage

2 - Every engine is slightly different. To account for this the standard map is detuned to prevent failure. A custom map on every engine produced by a manufacturer is pretty much impossible. Hence why paying to get one to tune your specific engine will make everything better. As long as the mapper knows what they are doing obviously. 

3 - A proper map is done live on a rolling road. So there is no download as such. 

10 hours ago, jayxx83 said:

Had mine mapped by GAD in Essex via Copse Auto in Woking. non dfi 2.9 boxster.  Long story short I have that 7k exhaust system from FVD on there.  Full equal length manifolds, 200 cel cats, and the exhaust system. Also a BMC air filter. 
 

The base line run was the same HP 251 bhp so 255 metric horsepower. It had picked up around 23 Lb/ft which was noticeable as I ran the car for about 18 months before map. Still went flat around 3-4 k. 
 

after the map  wow what can I say.  It makes the same Torque now as my old boxster Spyder 987.2  power is up 35 hp so 285 bhp or 290 metric hp  

I was expecting hp of 285 but not expecting such a big torque bump. The car is actually rapid now where before you just used to use it to enjoy the corners  

I had a full service done just before with new plugs so the engine was as good as can be on 39k miles  

Trying to up load the graph but it’s limited to 81kb   Will try resize and upload.

 

defo worth doing as the throttle body doesn’t open fully as stock.  The driveability matters much more than headline bhp  

 

 

This is why I want mine mapped if I keep it.   It will create a much better torque curve!  Its not about pub bhp figures but the drivability and smoothness of power delivery

Wayne at Chipwizards is highly regarded for porsches. However I attempted to contact him several times regarding mine with no reply. 

On the Pegasus discussion, I'm not a fan either, but if you are going down that route have you considered a gold one to match the badges?

14 hours ago, Darren Sapsford said:

I ended up fitting a pipercross filter and trying the baffle removal. The car definitely felt better but with the baffle removed I noticed the mpg going down. 

Before fitting the induction kit I did the same with an aftermarket filter and saw no change.  I always drive the car hard, is it possible you were driving it harder to enjoy the increased induction noise?  

On 3/13/2023 at 6:35 PM, JonSta said:

https://www.mrnracetechnologies.com/product-page/987-cold-air-induction-kit

Mick - any sound clips?

 

Pm me your number and I'll send you a shaky whatsapp video from the passenger seat. Best I can do. Sounds much louder in real life

10 minutes ago, Mattman42 said:

Mr Cadbury??

Smooth and milky

Agreed. Although the purple with bronze wheels has me written all over it. 

1 hour ago, skoosh1970 said:

Porsche 987 Gen2 Boxster Performance Air Filter (987 Boxster Gen2 All Models) Porsche Car Parts - Spyder Performance

I had this in mine before the full kit.  Made very little difference, Id go with the BMC personally if just changing the filter

Just another note, I had desnorked and removed the baffle up until fitting this.  I needed to put the baffle back to tame the noise and its lovely now

4 hours ago, JonSta said:

Hhmmm. Tempting. Did you get the snazzy gold heat shield?

 

I did

58 minutes ago, JonSta said:

OK is it like the stock sound but moreso or is it different?

Also did you feel any extra go?

 

It has an impreza like growl in low revs. And is pretty racey sounding in the high revs. 

I have the cayman plenum to fit then mapping is next. I don't think it will make a difference until all is done together. 

10 minutes ago, JonSta said:

https://www.mrnracetechnologies.com/product-page/987-cold-air-induction-kit

Mick - any sound clips?

 

I can try. I have a full decat exhaust. So its hard to capture anything 😉

I have the MRN induction kit.  Its pretty loud, beautiful bit of kit and really well put togther

Just using springs is a false economy, I found this the hard way.  Upgrade the shocks at the same time, Id recommend Koni Sports

Ive been following them on Instagram. Just to see how it works out. They have now started a subscription service to see extra posts. Think I'll pass my eyes hurt enough already

Wouldn't touch that with a bargepole

Has anyone changed the diff to a shorter ratio on a 6?  I find it overly leggy

1 hour ago, Mabel1 said:

Not exactly what I was after but just seen this …. Thoughts ? 
 

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202302043944513?fbclid=IwAR1-sWtjmntdB8lGYwAqivqJwqpG4-Ivh9QLSbB5OdVS4ufMEnj7hsQB9_E

You would regret not getting what you wanted.  the 3.2 and the 2.7 are a completely different drive.  Both owners will tell you theirs is better no doubt.  

There are 6 986's in yellow on autotrader, 3 of which are 3.2s.  And a rather nice 987 3.2 as well from a specialist.  Whats the budget?

19 hours ago, Dubdubz said:

Thanks EDC

So if I go -30 what parts do I need to get at the same time to allow the adjustment - I know there is a chance I'll need some standard parts that are worn but what adjustbale doodads will I need please and the best place - found some Rennsprt ones that seem ok money but there is a few options or at least 2 parts I could see!
And possibly shocks - so then a coilover set becomes a decent proposition cash wise 🤔

@MickH My summer wheels are 19's althought the rolling radius should be close to you its the harshness lowered springs might bring, winters are 17's


[sorry for the thread hijack OP 🙂 still on topic though!]

I messed up and did the springs only originally, this killed the standard shocks which were most likely the originals.  So my advice would be to do it all at the same time to save the hassle and labour cost.  I've always been a fan of coilovers but most people on the internets seemed to suggest the Billies or Koni's were a better option, so I went with the Koni sports and could not be happier.  You will need rear toe arms too, these are the ones I went for, although were considerably cheaper at the time

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183899476445

They state 997 but they are the same as 987 ones :).   I did also try adjustable camber arms from them, but those are different so they went back. Didn't actually need them, just thought I may as well.

I wouldn't worry about the 19s, I still have a massive arch gap.  Actually wish I had sourced 19s, although the 18s are super compliant.

Mick

Oh and Im running 18s