BBB

1 hour ago, Menoporsche said:

This is what puts me off, I’d be really irritated to spend that money then have to buy a new one in 4-5 years and start again. 

At under £200 they are almost disposable if they last 5 years, especially compared to the OEM upgrade cost. Mine can link to the internet via my phone and upgrade its own operating system, but obviously that will only last until the hardware becomes outdated.

These guys are excellent, based in Liverpool, so not too far for you. The Dutch guy who runs it has a great reputation and gets all sorts of modified and exotic stuff turn up. I used him for my alignment after changing all the suspension and he freed up the track rods for me for free as part of the alignment, even though it took a while there was no extra cost.

https://wabjc.com/

I did the same as above, to replace a CDR24 and it’s brilliant. I even got mine to work with BOSE and I’m a newb when it comes to headunits. I use Waze, Spotify and the radio plus the cable connection to my phone charges it at the same time. 

I haven’t been following your build thread, but I have read that some lambda sensors need extensions or 90 degree elbows fitted once you start messing with exhausts and also perhaps throttle bodies?

You could unplug the MAF and see if it runs better. I think it goes onto a default map when you do that (someone will be long soon to add more details I’m sure). That would allow you to check the MAF health.

2 hours ago, Bike Loon said:

Bad to use... Corrosion - This happens because most of these caps are made of a steel, where as most valves are either brass or aluminium. With the static electricity generated by the wheels going round you get a galvanic corrosion reaction between the two differing metals and they corrode together.

It’s nothing to do with static electricity, it’s just due to the difference in reactivity of the two metals, but they must have an electrolyte solution between them (usually humidity). 

1 minute ago, map said:

Is the roof fabric properly seating in the channels around door frames?

Noticed my 986 roof behave this way and spotted that the fabric wasn’t correctly seated. 

Yes, all good there thanks.

I’ve just solved it, gotta love a bit of self-help.

I put the roof half open and noticed that I could wobble the left roof frame a lot more than the right hand side. The T40 screw that allows length adjustment on the roof control arm (the one with the plastic ball joint caps that breaks) was loose on the left. I made sure that the arms were equal length (30mm from end of arm to centre point of T40 screw) and tightened it. The right hand side was a tiny bit loose as well.

Now the roof parks correctly. It must have been the extra force on the roof, opening it whilst driving, that caused the control arm to lengthen slightly with the loose screw, that caused the problem.

Something else to add to my roof maintenance routine now.

Had a great drive yesterday, dodging showers. I had the roof up and then the sun came out, so as I was in traffic at less than 30mph, I lowered the roof while driving. Now the roof comes back fine, but gets to the top of the windscreen and then goes backwards a few millimetres. I now have to manually push the roof forwards or the latch doesn’t reach. All other bits work fine, windows drop etc, just not quite reaching forwards properly.

Any thoughts on why or what to do about it? I wonder if the opening whilst driving has strained the mechanism in some way?

1 hour ago, 832ark said:

I second this, have done the same thing. Only issue I encountered is that on startup it defaults to valves open which is annoying. I modified the loom with a relay to reverse that so mine always starts valves closed.

That’s a great idea @832ark.

Someone else on here posted that you can close the valves before you start the engine, so that’s what I do. Turn the ignition key to the first position, press the close button on the remote and it starts with the valves closed. More of a faff than your mod, but a useful workaround.

Those cords in your last picture, run diagonally inside a fabric channel, inside the layers of the roof. They go from the rollover hoops forward to the front of the roof and seem to keep a bit of tension in the fabric. The only posts I’ve ever seen about repairing them involved taking the fabric off the metal frame or unpeeling the roof fabric from the front part of the frame. I decided a while ago to just ignore them.

I also used an aluminium assembly grease when putting new parts back on again, not that I ever want to do it again, but as insurance if a spring broke in the future for example and I had to take things apart again.

I did mine and it’s good advice to replace all the arms as well, as the rubber bushes will be at the end of their lives. I replaced all the bolts as I had to cut many of them and wanted fresh fasteners. I definitely had to use a recip saw and toughened blades, don’t waste time faffing around, just cut any bolts that resist you.

I had/have the same issue. If you look at the plastic pin that is meant to engage in the cover flap, mine had a small metal washer towards the left, that impeded the pin from coming forward fully. It’s apparently the emergency release cable (open the drivers door fully and you’ll see the end of the cable at the top of the  door shut area, at the front). I sprayed mine with WD40, then tried PTFE spray, Duckoil, etc and eventually the washer was sufficiently lubricated that the pin moves freely and mine now locks. You can help the process by gently pulling the pin forwards with your finger. Do this a few times, spray lube in there, and hopefully it will start working.

44 minutes ago, Hainesy said:

Did you install yourself or pay a garage to fit it? 

Installed myself, but paid for ramp access to make it easier. The exhaust itself went on easily, it took a bit more time to finesse the exact position of the tail pipes as I was being very fussy. I then plumbed in the vacuum pipes and electronics at home some days later. That was fiddly, but only because I took a while to work out where the vacuum sources are in the engine and to hide the wiring.

I have the DesignTek valved system and think it’s brilliant. I have read that the non-valved versions drone a lot, so opted for the valved one. It’s louder and deeper toned than standard with the valves closed, and probably offensively loud when the valves are open (but good fun in tunnels). No regrets.

Maybe just clean the bit that flings out when you turn the key (run out of technical words at this point), as that seems to be the bit that squeals when it gets dirty?

A great result. Interesting that they noted some fuel dilution in the sample, but that it was normal for performance engines.

I changed my oil yesterday and was very careful to check the waste oil pan was sticker free and clean before dumping the oil into it, so at least I’ve learned something from your experience.

Change the starter motor while you’re there?

37 minutes ago, phazed said:

I don’t get it.

Paint flakes off the bottom of his waste oil pan.

What a muppet!!! Still, the best possible outcome if you’re correct. 😂

9 minutes ago, phazed said:

Clicking on those 3 dots just brings up, "share" and "report". sadly.

That’s weird, I get share, report and edit.

9 hours ago, phazed said:

Another question. How can I delete attachments to free up space as I apparently have used up 100% of attachment space. Cheers.

Try clicking on your profile picture (top right), then select “my attachments” and you’ll see each one listed. Click on each one and that takes you to the post you made. Click the three dots at the top of the post and then edit your post, which should allow you to delete the attachment.

9 hours ago, fewtrees said:

It was really, I took the carpet out of the front as I knew brake fluid was going to get spilt..

I used a syringe to remove the fluid in the reservoir.

Removing the reservoir proved to be harder than removing the master cylinder itself. The hydraulic fluid lines are not tightly bolted and the 2 holding bolts for the mc itself are not too tight either. There’s room for a 22/20mm socket no problem.

The hardest part is getting rid of the air out of the system. To help with this I bench bled the new mc beforehand so there’s less air to remove.

Thanks for this. I still have a GT3 master cylinder sat on my bench for swappsies, but keep putting it off. Bench bleeding? Is that simple, if I look it up on YT for example?

Just be prepared for back ache after laying upside down in the footwell whilst you swap the switches.

6 hours ago, fewtrees said:

So today I’ve done the master cylinder. I bench bled the mc first and quickly swapped the units over.. Obvs still got air in there but I went around the callipers and got a load of air out.. Car stops and can lock the fronts but it’s ok.

Tomorrow I’ll replace the callipers in the usual bleed order and see where I get to.
 

Fortunately I have a motive bleeder which makes the job easy!

Titanium/s.steel nips sound very cool - gonna check that out 👍

Was the master cylinder swap straight forward?