BBB

I adjusted this (4mm allen key) so the boot closes lower.

The seal looks good.

Also cleaned the drain holes under the spoiler as two were blocked and there was lots of debris in the crease line.  Unrelated to the leak I think, but useful to do anyway.

Edit: gummipleged the seal anyway, to make sure it’s flexible. And checked around the light cluster and all is dry.

8 minutes ago, iborguk said:

What condition does the rear boot weatherstrip look to be in ? Maybe link a couple of photos up for further suggestions ? 

It looks great, nice and plump, untorn, but it was wet on its upper surface on the left hand side, where the leak seems to be. It’s not going under the weatherstrip as it seems to be a really tight fit.

3 minutes ago, Liberty said:

Have you had the light cluster out? just a thought 

No, but good thought to check around it.

I was checking the roof drain holes today (all clear thankfully), but when I opened the boot there was an odd smell. I have a rubber boot liner that is tailored to the 987, i.e. closely fitting and when I lifted this the carpet was wet underneath, mainly in the rear left corner, but there were some white mould marks randomly over most of the carpet. 

I’ve taken the carpet out to dry and clean. It’s very thin so, unlike the interior carpet it will dry quickly. Thankfully the leak isn’t near the coolant filler cap, so the reservoir is not the culprit. It looks like water is coming over the left, rear rubber seal (coming over the boot lid edge and running underneath). I’m leaving the carpet out for a few days and I’ll check again but I’m puzzled what to do to stop the leak. The only thing I can think is to adjust the rubber stopper on the left corner of the boot lid, but the boot settles nicely in relation to the spoiler, so it’s not too high.

Any thoughts?

And a warning for others with the boot liner, to check underneath.

36 minutes ago, ATM said:

Mine came apart easy.  Is there anything I can do to these nuts to keep them from seizing in the future?

I used/use this aluminium assembly anti-seize. I’ve no idea if it works as I have no intention of ever taking my suspension apart again, but it was recommended on here I think.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352927163461

Retrofit cruise control is only around £300, even if you buy brand new parts. It’s an easy DIY fit, but will need coding.

The car threw a “Check rear left brake light” warning on the way home yesterday. Cue an error strewn morning chasing down a solution. 

The bulb looked fine, but I went to ECP for a new bulb. Get home and they’ve given me a P21/5W box, with a P21/4W bulb inside, without offset angle lugs. Rant 1.

Shlep to Halfords, use their car lookup screen, select another P21/5 W bulb (with a claimed extra 200% lifetime), can’t see the bulb properly in the blister pack. Saturday morning feckwits shopping in B &Q, M&S, Aldi refuse to let anyone out of the car park, cues grow, horns start, 15 minutes just to get out of Halfords. Rant 2.

Get home to find Halfords bulb is not offset. Rant 3.

Return to ECP with their wrong bulb and thankfully they check the new bulb, so I luckily buy two just in case. Get home, plug it in, still an error code. Rant 4.

Pull the right hand side to compare and then can’t get the bulb back in again, because some barsteward had wedged a non offset bulb in there and of course it won’t go back in again. Now I have no brake lights. Rant 5.

It p*sses down with rain and then hails, car on drive. Strong coffee needed.

Finally, decide that the terminals inside the housing look a bit dull, Dremmel them clean, fit two new offset bulbs and it all works. 

Moral of the story: the initial error was probably corrosion all along, check for that first. Secondly, the handbook doesn’t state that you need offset angle lugs for the brake bulb (some of the others in the cluster are the normal 180 stagger).

13 hours ago, Mattman42 said:

You could always use the old trick of holding your key fob against your head when pressing the button, to extend the range 

What?

EDIT: Wow, it’s a real thing,

https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/101913/why-does-a-remote-car-key-work-when-held-to-your-head-body

ouch!

I just gummiplege the rubber seals and make sure it’s clean beforehand. Personally I’d wait a bit longer as the weather is still mild.

2 minutes ago, iborguk said:

I’m guessing it’s actually PSM.

That would make more sense.

PRS, is that seatbelt tensioner?

1 hour ago, Vince Taylor said:

Just watched another video, and the chap didn’t even remove the screw. 
He just stapled both ends onto the old elastic. 
Anyone gone this route ? 

The elastic on mine had totally perished. It’s genuinely an easy job to replace the elastic with some new button elastic and roughly sew the new stuff on, then adjust the tension over the screw by stretching it to the right length.

something like

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Buttonhole-Waistbands-Maternity-Knitting-Crafting/dp/B091D9DZK6

Disconnecting the MAF will default to a base map. If the symptoms remain then it’s not the MAF.

I bought my LED bulb set from @Laney456 , which came with very clear instructions and all worked well. Try PM him.

A cluster of electronic issues is normally related to water ingress damaging one of the units under the carpet, under the seats. Try having a feel of the carpet and see if any part of it is wet, as blocked drains can cause this.

Yep.

and @marts500 does them on here.

That’s a great idea. I had presumed that the power went off for the lights, on a timer, so ran mine from the passenger footwell power socket.

16 minutes ago, Vince Taylor said:

Ok here goes! 
 

Original registration number = MV11AEM. 
Boxster 2.9 in grey with PDK box. 
it has also been on a couple of Cherished plates. 

You can’t do that!!! Ban him !

1 hour ago, Vince Taylor said:

Thanks Gents, would a Moderator just confirm this please before I pull the trigger (so to speak) 🤣

If a moderator doesn’t like it, they’ll delete it.

You can do the MOT history check yourself.

13 hours ago, RBD914 v2 said:

Driving to work today in the GTS. Lovely morning, 7.00am on a quiet country road, no traffic.

 

Next minute I see a brown blur pass in front of me, so I hit the brakes and there is a big thud as I hit something big.

 

The impact killed the deer outright, it must have run down a field and jumped the fence onto the road, heading for the woods on the other side.

 

I was only doing 40mph as it's a bumpy back road, which always has pheasants and the odd escaped sheep on it in a morning, so I was taking it easy. 

 

I was lucky, because if I had been going 5mph faster, it would have been through the windscreen and in my lap! One minute the road was clear, next minute I had a windscreen full of brown deer, a big thud then it was gone, I barely had chance to react and brake.

 

Must have been a glancing blow as amazingly there was no obvious damage to the car, except a front radiator grille had popped out which should just pop back in. I stopped the car and walked back up the road, the deer had made it into the forest but was laying on it's side and clearly dead - poor thing!

 

Gave me quite a fright, maybe time to use a different route in to work!

 

I will get the car checked over to make sure there is no hidden damage, and get the grille put back in. I must admit I was expecting busted headlights, cracked bumpers and a dented bonnet, costing several thousand pounds to repair, so I guess I was lucky...unlike the deer.

 

Such is life!

 

Update...had car checked over, the impact cracked the paint on the nose cone, so needs a nose respray. Only had it done last year, but still think I got off lightly.

And what happened to the 70kg of prime venison? Did you go back with some sharp knives?

2 minutes ago, ATM said:

What's this?

Doesn’t the car do an airbag check when you turn it on (the airbag light on the dash briefly lights then goes out if all is well)? Checking the wires for polarity with a voltmeter during the check may help.

3 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

This is good news for that problem. Always the same place, or different ones?

Same place. Local to me, so convenient.

Passed its third MOT in a row with no advisories  Super low emissions even though it has no rear catalysts and LED dipped bulbs passed again.

On 9/4/2023 at 4:05 PM, Happy Days said:

Garage bloke reckons the MOT brake test is quite severe and that would have caused the failure.

My 1989 VW camper van shat all its brake fluid (and clutch fluid as it’s a shared reservoir) during the MOT brake test, from a sheared, rusty brake line. That took some cleaning up. But it is considerably older than your boxster.