BBB

6 hours ago, fewtrees said:

So today I’ve done the master cylinder. I bench bled the mc first and quickly swapped the units over.. Obvs still got air in there but I went around the callipers and got a load of air out.. Car stops and can lock the fronts but it’s ok.

Tomorrow I’ll replace the callipers in the usual bleed order and see where I get to.
 

Fortunately I have a motive bleeder which makes the job easy!

Titanium/s.steel nips sound very cool - gonna check that out 👍

Was the master cylinder swap straight forward?

Mine was the brake light switch when I had the same problem. I would recommend going to an OPC as I managed to order the wrong switch twice (both worked the brake lights, but none worked the cruise control). 

4 minutes ago, phazed said:

Can someone show me how to delete my previous messages as I cannot use the PM facility until that is done. Thank you.

Click on your message icon (top right of screen, looks like an envelope). Then you’ll see the expanded view of messages on the right of screen and a smaller list of messages on the left, with little empty “select” squares. Click one (or multiple of those) and you’ll get a pop-up dialogue box, with delete as one of the options.
 

I use a small, pointed hook on a handle, to pull the top mounting tabs down, while pulling the grille gently forward. Once the top is free, angle the whole grille and it just slides out. They are easier to remove than fit. It takes a bit more care putting them back in, to avoid scratching any paint.

Here’s a link to a set of tools like mine.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/amtech-4pc-mini-hook-and-pick-set-553981290?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwtqmwBhBVEiwAL-WAYQ4bPcEtezLOAPWGHsbBiat3IT1U9ZRsxw-bjGv9E2aJz4BZwI9B6hoCYPUQAvD_BwE

Managed to find a picture from when I checked mine. 

If you remove the rear wheel, you can take out the front part of the wheel liner and you’ll see the end of the drain tube under there.

Washed the faint green marks off the edges of the roof with Autosmart G101 and then Fabsil Gold coated the roof yesterday. Super beading today.

@Porschevirgin1968 if you post your location there may be someone local to you with a code reader.

I have the Foxwell and icarsoft v2 and had to use my local indy for the cruise control retrofit coding.

1 hour ago, kdh said:

Thanks, how do you get to the ones under the spoiler? On my 987 I've put the spoiler up but can't see any. I've poured water into the spoiler holes and it pours into the boot.

Pictures are towards the end of this thread. A series of small holes that you’ll see when the spoiler is raised.

1 hour ago, Boxob said:

G101? And from where, please?

https://autosmart.co.uk/shop/g101-5l

Free delivery

I’m 6’2 and have the seat tilted backwards for comfort, which means the seat base is slightly forward. It took me a while to get used to the leg position but I don’t think about it anymore. It helps to be able to raise/lower the steering wheel until you find the sweet spot of leg clearance and visibility of the dash dials. I think mine are the sports seats.

4 hours ago, nelmo said:

Neat solution, good job.

Has something changed in the world of phones? I was always told to keep magnets away from them as it would wipe the data - is that not a thing any more?

Not a thing anymore. Your phone has plenty of magnets inside already, try passing a compass over it and watch the needle swing around.

I cracked a wheel on the 5 series last week, while on holiday. No amount of gunk was going to help that. Luckily I have a space saver and found an alloy wheel centre only 40 miles away, who welded it the following day. 

IIRC, on the 987 you have to hold the button to raise the spoiler. I think it’s that way so you can raise it to whatever height you want. So, if you’re just pressing the button and expecting it to operate to full height, then try holding the button down.

13 minutes ago, iborguk said:

Blew my drains out.

For a micro-second I read that as a suicide attempt.

I can imagine how the hard top fits onto the top tube of the wall mount (the pointy locking pins go into the holes in the tube), but how does the leading edge of the roof attach to the lower tube?

Here’s a way to test each circuit, rather than just drain on the battery.

That is what made me think it was a fuse. If you have a multimeter, put the black/common probe to a known earth (or a screw that goes into the bodywork) and touch each terminal in the connectors, checking for 12V. You may have to do this with the ignition on.

Blown a fuse? Check for 12V on the connectors if you have a multimeter.

I think that although your calculations are correct, they imply a degree of accuracy that is illusory. We would all have to own calibrated pressure gauges, with an accuracy of +/- 1 psi for it to have any relevance. So, the manual figures are “good enough” for the purpose we use them for.

..has a 987.1 for a project.

1 hour ago, cozzykim said:

Just to be awkward, I just bought a CTEK CT5 (actually, because it was almost brand new/unused and cheaper than a new MSX 5.0

This is supposed to be the best version for start/stop vehicles, and it has no configuration necessary.

Anyone else got one?

I'm now trying to figure out how to use it with the bonnet closed on my grass 'driveway' so that I don't get unwelcome rainwater in the frunk.

One of these, plugged into an external socket.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Masterplug-WBXBFG10B-MP-WBXBFG10B-Weatherproof-Extension/dp/B0062GTL42/ref=sr_1_5?crid=26RT2CCTX0RH0&keywords=waterproof%2Bextension%2Bbox&qid=1706535406&sprefix=waterproof%2Bextension%2Bbo%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-5&th=1

The CTEK plugged into the centre console charging socket, the unit sits nice and dry in the passenger footwell, its lead draped over the sill, close and lock the door, and then plug the CTEK into the masterplug box linked above. 

And you may also have to trigger the ABS if any air got trapped in there.

From Victron’s forum. As I read it, the disparity between the CTEK voltage and the Victron readings could come down to the resistance of the wires in each piece of circuitry. In my own view, the difference doesn’t matter, if the CTEK charges your battery correctly.

“There is a quality of power called Ohms law, basically there is a relationship between voltage, current and resistance. The power electronics that draw, or push current will cause the voltage to drop, or rise.

If the product uses these same wires to sense the voltage, then it can appear that the voltage is higher or lower than it will appear at the battery terminals taken from a voltage sensing device that is not drawing or pushing any current.

Further to that, the size of the wires that are selected by the installer on site will also affect this current carrying voltage reading for these charging or load products. There is a lot more detail about these effects (and how significant they can be in certain circumstances) in the Ohms Law chapter of the Victron book Wiring Unlimited here.”

https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/142549/lets-try-a-second-time-whats-the-accuracy-of-victr.html

3 hours ago, Timotee said:

Tatty bump stops and a bit of corrosion don't make the shock absorber unserviceable.

Welcome to the forum.

I agree, which is why I didn’t state that.