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BBB
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Posts posted by BBB
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59 minutes ago, Mattman42 said:
Isn’t the windscreen part meant to be inside the roof part? Is it possible to glue the end back to the car?
@Mattman42 is correct I think. in your first picture it looks like the curving piece of the roof trim (side piece) is too far towards the front of the car. it should be tucked under the piece on the right and it is also distorting the seal across the front of the roof (where it meets the top of the windscreen) as that should be a continuous straight line.
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You may find that pulling out the relevant fuse in the footwell, leaving it for a minute or so, and then refitting, may reset the headunit. I had to do this regularly with my CDR 24 before I accepted that it was FUBAR and replaced it with an android unit.
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1 minute ago, Tamás Dinya said:
Bose may count, since as I understand, the full liner may hold a CD changer, which comes automatic with the upgraded headunit of the Bose cars. Or something like this, I dont know for sure.
Not on mine. It was Bose, but no CD changer.
Still, you’ve got some more luggage space
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Mine is 2005 and is like picture 1, I’ve never seen a version like your second picture. Having BOSE doesn’t matter as the amp is under the hazard triangle storage area.
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I think that most of the plug-in bluetooth adapters replace the CD multichanger, i.e. you can’t access the multichanger anymore since plugging in the Mr 12 V unit. Does your CD button toggle between the single drive in the headunit and the old multichanger? If so, press the CD button again and it should connect to the new bluetooth unit.
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It looks to be doing a very similar job as a sprint booster
I have one on my 987 and really like it.
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On 6/15/2023 at 9:41 AM, BBB said:
Still haven’t got mine yet, registered on 24th March.
…and finally, a rather nice box arrived today.
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From what I’ve (just) read, the GPF should be automatically regenerated by the ECU so it should never fill with carbon.
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1 hour ago, Tonecontroller said:
I have, for example, a dim view (snort) of aftermarket LED conversions, as the engineer in me says that (a) if a reflector and lens is designed based upon exact positioning and size of the light-source, anything that deviates from that will have undesirable results in terms of distribution and (b) just adding extra light makes everyone else's life worse, as the waste light above the cutoff is also greater, increasing dazzle. (kicks soap-box back under table..)
I have LED dipped beam “bulbs” in my 987 and have been impressed by the design of the conversions. The length and dimensions are the same as the original halogen bulbs. The LED design is a triangular prism and the light emitting elements are only on two sides of the triangle so you get a very clean horizontal cut off line for the beam, but you have to make sure you rotate the triangle correctly to achieve this. I’m still a bit underwhelmed by the light output of the conversion compared to the HID units on my BMW, but I think it’s due to the limitations of the projector lens design and they are certainly better than the original halogen bulbs.
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I've ordered shimstock and shim washers, plus the short shifter kit arrived yesterday. I'll get around to this and plan to use the YouTube video linked earlier, but it's on the to-do list rather than a prority. I'll update the thread when I've done it.
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7 minutes ago, JonSta said:
So you got good results just shimming the white plastic block?
I’m guessing that the horizontal (left-right) motion also needs the thin washer on the shaft itself.
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16 minutes ago, huytonman said:
I was interested in the development thread via your "here" link but its not working for me, I get the following response "phpBB : Critical Error
Error creating new session"Keith
Me too.
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42 minutes ago, iborguk said:
Let us know how you get on.
As you may see by now this forum is pretty active 🤓And we love spending other people’s money
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The North-West is a pretty big area, so I’ve no idea if these are close to you, but I’ve used these for programming before. They are based on the Wirral, opposite Liverpool.
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I just checked mine and I can just (but only just) curl my fingers over the top of the tyre, between the inner of the tyre and the bottom of the spring platform.
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You enter this code at checkout
PC092015
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I know this would be a pain to do, but could you swap the rotor from the other side and see if the noise changes side. That would identify this rotor if it’s the problem.
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5 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:
I enquired about one yesterday in Liverpool advert went on yesterday was sold by time I got out bed at 3pm.
I’ve had hangovers like that too.
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Welcome to the forum.
As it’s your first post, I have just gone out in the rain and measured my Zunsport grilles. The diamond pattern has an approximate 8mm size for each side. There is a discount code for Zunsport on this forum somewhere if you decide to order them.
Personally, there’s a risk of overthinking if you worry too much about the grill size and I doubt Zunsport did any research when they decided on that size. About that size will do, to trap big debris such as leaves. Cooling is not an issue with sensibly sized grilles.
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31 minutes ago, iborguk said:
Personal thoughts re some of what I look for when buying...
Buy on condition not mileage is a forum mantra and is sound advice.
Have a contingency budget for repairs, over and above the purchase, all these cars will have some years and mileage on them.
Check the roof operation and that it sits correctly both sides, easy fix re roof elastic normally if it doesn't,.
Check Windows go up/down with roof. Window regulators can get tired at this kind of age. If you hear rattling coming from the doors when driving that could be a few things including worn regulators, window position (which is adjustable for both vertical position and rake).
Check the roof rear drains are clear, which you can see with the roof half-way up. This is normally a clue as to how careful the owner is in looking after the car. Blocked drains can lead to water getting into the car under the seats, causing havoc with the electronics under the passenger seat. Drain check and clear should be a regular maintenance item for any Boxster, especially those living outside most of the time.
Check the areas under the seats are dry (pull up the carpet and check the foam underlay, behind the seats, don't just look at the carpet) and check it shows isn't damp/shows no signs of water ingress (again re drains)
Rubber components and seals unless replaced will obviously have some miles and years on them.
Evidence of coolant pipes including cross-overs having been done (about 1k to do that lot - mine needed them done on a 987.2 at 32k miles and when it was 10 years old)
Inside of disk brakes - they like to corrode even though can look fine from the outside (tip always give the car an Italian tune-up after washing the wheels, helps prevent this)
Brake bleed nipples like to corrode on the callipers (you normally only find out at brake fluid change time)
If a Porsche original battery check the negative terminal for week and year stamp - will tell you how old it is. Anything over about 5 years old be prepared to replace it.
Check what suspension parts have been replaced - lower coffin arms are a common requirement (check for rattle, rattle, rattle) when driving
General exhaust condition. The manifold studs to the rear boxes are a weak point, check to see if they have been replaced, originals are made from Camembert, rust to nothing and allow the triangular joint to blow. Easy to fix in the right pair of hands or can be a barstool of a job if DIYing without the right approach/tools. Exhausts can rot from the inside out.
Check the aircon/climate control is working. Stone hits to the rads/condensers are not uncommon with the leaks they bring. Assuming UV dye in the system a UV torch (few quid from Amazon) will show any leaks.
If it has heated seats check they are in working order.
The 987 interior feels a step forward to a more modern car, as one would expect.
Standard lights are poor, go Bi-Xenon if you can, cars with headlight washers should designate those are on-board.
Check front end paint work for stone chips. Lots of these cars will have front end resprays as they pick up stone chips.
Service History (a guide not a guarantee car will be in great condition). Plugs, Serpentine belt and Brake fluid are all extras in Porsche servicing land - again ensure they have been done as needed.
Coil packs can crack with age and when they get hot in the wet and cause misfires (ask me how I know - had this happen 2 weeks into ownership of a 987.1 !)
I hope some of that helps.
This should be pinned somewhere, as a summary for new buyers.
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3 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:
Agreed, I've had them on my previous convertibles, but it would not be a deal breaker. If its too cold you need heated seats I'd have the roof up, lol.
There’s definitely something brilliant about driving on a winters, sunny day, top down with a wooly hat on and a toasty backside.
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Heated seats are really welcome in winter and also with the top down on chilly days.
Frunk Dilemma - Not opening with switch or jump cables
in 987
Posted
Does the latch make a noise when you operate the frunk switch under the drivers door? If not, I wonder if you’ve blown a fuse?
If the latch makes a noise, but the frunk doesn’t open, perhaps leave it in the shade in case the hot sunlight has caused it to jam.