BBB

9 hours ago, Mattman42 said:

Looking for a replacement washer pump - it seems to be the same part for 986 and 987 boxsters, but finding 2 different part numbers 

99762818200

99662818200

3rd digit is different but pumps look the same e - anyone know for sure?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332921394278?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338624526&customid=ccc6babb280eb4797a681fb7d07143b5&toolid=20006

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134311551967?hash=item1f4597a3df:g:6ygAAOSwTP9jYqgQ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4LNXT%2BmsbIJukiH1%2FB1rNuMFOZ0DA5dLZKlhbL7ZnZ644s8OnrAmgY92Ov%2BH1ewYof%2FFMGKZgqPVmiuxJ%2B5xiUqRaGnJ1B1qrgSin1O75WsMECNOeAJ78c2oV7jrmL6NqCloJxO4zEFqMAapeyRfIg58L3SYa4MdwEmO7SwyL%2B9%2BbLl%2F6cdMguSQ7SoBVz1PDHiJNG2ldynlDLTrvFndO7e5TONuCW4vAnTJ%2BClhE37rFifdyPW29UX7Au7VW0EmShBmHqQZRWuWwEhz%2F6rNoGI8MmXmzeFVEM5y5hGVT3XS|tkp%3ABk9SR7iK5v2NYw

I found the 997 part number in the diagrams I have.

22 minutes ago, McDonald said:

My nearside front keeps losing pressure. I've been back to Halfords twice, they've taken the tyre off the wheel twice and replaced the valve. Nothing wrong, they say. Goes way down every couple of weeks. One yr old Michelin PS4S, lots of tread. Not sure how to proceed. I've just ordered a small electronic pump but obviously not a satisfactory situation.😒

The only real test is to dunk the whole wheel and tyre in a big bath of water. Some tyre places still have these. When I had the same issue on my 535D it turned out to be a cracked wheel, not the tyre. BMW are notorious for fitting runflat tyres as OEM fitment and the stiffer sidewalls transfer all the force to the wheels.

It was less than £100 to get the crack welded up and it cured the problem.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185910302962

for original part. Or take the opportunity to replace both with LED units.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223448611074

23 minutes ago, cozzykim said:

And, I'm sure that I've read that the surfactants in it are very corrosive?

I think they may be as pure ingredients/ straight out of the bottle, but they’re designed to be used for hand washing so must be pretty safe when diluted. 

1 hour ago, mneil said:

Was always told washing up liquid is a big no no, so never use it myself always used screen wash.

Washing up liquid is designed to foam, so you can get surprisingly sudsy spray onto your windscreen, plus it gives very little protection from freezing temperatures. 

In the rare sunny gap between storm “Whatever its called this time”, I finally managed to get the hard top on for winter.

It’s gone on much later than ever this year. Must be global warming @TV8 

34 minutes ago, Tigerstew said:

Will using the brushes at the self car washes with the foam they use damage the paint on the Porsche? 
 

as I’ve been told the foam and soap at them places is corrosive and not the best quality 

I personally never use a brush on the paintwork. The car wash brushes are probably nylon fibres which are very hard and could scratch/swirl the paint. No idea about the pH of the foam but the brushes are the main worry for me, especially when your car is dirty at the start.

I would have bought an Elise if I wanted a stripped back car, or an Ariel Atom, or a Caterham 7. But I wanted a bit more luxury, but still with great road feel.

My chipped 535D might even be quicker than the Boxster on wide roads, but it’s a luxury barge when it comes to handling.

4 minutes ago, ½cwt said:

I did all the lines on my car this summer with cunifer.  I bought a fairly cheap flaring tool, pipe cutter and flare nuts kit on eBay for a bout £85 but I did find I needed an extra coil of cunifer, the one in the kit was not quite enough.  It did include a bending tool but it was useless for the 986.   If you do make the short caliper to flexi pipes lines your self, you will need lots more fittings

Yes, I put a joint in both the front and rear cross over pies for convenience.  I actually found the front one to be harder getting the almost switch back bends in to the front right where it goes around the chassis member out to the wheel arch. A number of clips will break, I over came most by using two cable ties to retain the new pipe, others I figured there was enough support.  All the flare nuts except one in the main system are DIN M10 x 1, there is one M12 x 1.  Given how short and fiddly they were and that the spring clips on mine were very rust I bought 4 new caliper to flexi lines from Porsche which are about £20 each.  Very few for the original flare nuts will come undone so be prepared to cut through the lines.  All came undone when presented with an impact driver (NOT impact wrench).  I used the originals as template to shape the replacement line by taping the two together as I formed the new shape along side the old.  Get 10, 11 and 12mm flare spanners, jsut in case the lines do come un done, but also to nip up the new lines, although you can get away with ordinary open-ended spanners.

I'm not 100% happy with the shaping I achieved but all the pipes follow the original routes and are clipped in or held in as they should be.

Why the impact driver not impact wrench? I would have guessed at the opposite, and have both tools, so I’m genuinely curious.

IIRC that end of the shaft has no serviceable parts, so yes, it will ultimately need replacing. Mine is going that way, so I have an ebay find sat in my garage for when it gets too bad. In the short term you can clean the rust off and paint/treat the rust to slow the inevitable decay.

1 hour ago, Hewy said:

Had this happen to me on a Golf GTI a few years back. Standard filament bulbs, turned the lights on when I was on the motorway the dipped side never came on. 100 miles from home so had to turn the head light adjusters down and finish the journey on main beam lights. Both bulbs had blown, replaced them and never had another problem with them again. No idea as to why they went together!

I wonder if this is a slight fault in the relay in the circuit. One bulb fails, the relay then routes a current surge to the other bulb and it blows too.

27 minutes ago, Nobbie said:

Lamda readings fail are often due to leaks on the exhaust joints letting in extra oxygen. Had this once on mine and was fine after I replaced the joints.

^^ This. High lambda readings are the mixture being too lean, so an air leak is probable.

I have one of these attached to the battery.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394413642374

That would enable you to look at a longer time period discharge curve on your phone. You’ll also be able to spot @Paul P suggestion of something with a higher drain kicking in later.

This video suggests an Italian tune up may help.

Hi there. I’m Wirral based too and have used OCD Porsche for some coding and also my coolant lines at the front. They are very friendly and helpful so well worth asking them.

1 hour ago, 832ark said:

Thanks Paul. Managed to get reading on parasitic draw today. Watched the meter for a good 10 mins and it stayed between 50 & 60mA. That seems to be a reasonable reading?

This article is a good quick read, and suggests that 60mA is normal for a modern vehicle.

https://www.optimabatteries.com/experience/blog/what-is-normal-for-parasitic-draw

Answering the question a different way: what have you changed on the car? If you’ve recently changed or installed something then that’s likely to be the cause of the flattened battery. 

This is useful to calculate the range of tyres that could fit your wheels. In general, lower sidewalls, the second number in for example 255/45, the stiffer the ride as there is less material to flex. That can improve “feel” making it more direct, but more crashy. I prefer smaller sidewalls at the expense of comfort, but it’s a personal choice.

https://www.oponeo.co.uk/tools/fit-the-tyre-to-the-rim/9-00x19

Fabsil Gold = higher silicone content, more beading

Fabsil = lower silicone content, but has UV protection 

BTW, the roof has three layers, the middle of which is the waterproof layer. The outer fabric doesn’t actually need to be waterproof, but I’m sure it helps to repel water and keep it cleaner.

14 minutes ago, Porschevirgin1968 said:

Tombone cleaner ordered ☺️

And once they are free-flowing, order some of these (or pick them up from your local OPC), to help keep the rear ones clean.

https://parr-uk.co.uk/product/porsche-boxster-drain-hole-filter/

2 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

You need to pop the control arms off their plastic ball joints, either side under the deck, which I think then allows you to raise it manually. 

If you have the owners manual there are diagrams showing you how to do this. The tool you’ll need is in the toolkit in the frunk.

55 minutes ago, Menoporsche said:

Ring 600w. Didn't have to fiddle with any wiring IIRC. Think it's old, this is the newer (and bigger) version. 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automotive-RSP1000-Maintainer-Monocrystalline/dp/B0C8BF25PP?th=1 

Note I'm a thousand miles south of you, but still they claim it works on cloudy days. One disadvantage is absolutely no indicator lights to understand if or how it's working. But as I say, my battery lasted for years, and always started happily even after 6 weeks standing, so I assume it did.

I have something similar in the camper van, that doesn’t get used much (or at all) over winter. It keeps two leisure batteries topped up. I would opt for the bigger rated 20W version for not much more money.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automotive-RSP1000-Maintainer-Monocrystalline/dp/B0C8BD57Y9?th=1

@Menoporsche is yours really 600W, it must be huge?

I have an outdoor waterproof socket on the outside garage wall. An extension cable runs to the waterproof box linked below. The CTEK plugs into this and, as @Paul P details, you run the cable over the sill and the CTEK sits in the passenger footwell. Mine then plugs into the cigarette socket in the centre console, using a CTEK connector that has a series of LEDs in it that show the charging status. I can just look in through the passenger window and check the CTEK indicator lights to see how things are going. My car gets used about twice a week, but I have a dashcam permanently connected so there is always a small current drain.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B0X8CYC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

These

3 hours ago, Paul P said:

The drain plan shows drains for the spoiler. But I thought they were buried.  Where are the spoiler drains you cleared.  ? 

They are the series of about five oval holes you can see in the middle of the last picture. I flushed that area with a hose and it ran down each hole. They are under the spoiler, so I raised it with the switch.