Codfanglers

45 minutes ago, Davey P said:

How dare you think about selling my old car... 😂 (I can't help with your query, but good luck with the sale if you go ahead anyway mate 👍)

Hi Davey mate. She's served me well, given me very little trouble and is still a great car with nothing really wrong with it😍. And looking at an S even though I said the next one would have a turbo.

With you experiencing your six speed manual straight after my car, you may be best placed though to tell me if you noticed any difference in clutch feel when you changed.

I'm looking to upgrade from my 2007 2.7 and found a fantastic gen2 3.4S, great spec and half the milage of my car. Test drove today, loved the condition, the extra power, the exhaust soundtrack... and sorely tempted to the point my mind is probably made up. 

Not a deal breaker, but the question for those with more experience, the clutch on my 2.7 has always been very light with a great feel.  Should the clutch on the 3.4 DFI engine with six speed box feel heavier and a bit more wooley than my 2.7 with a five speed box - or will it soon need an new clutch?

People have got used to strong prices and are still basking in the theoretical high value of their cars after the dealer's price-hiking frenzy a couple of years ago. They will continue to try and talk the market up and keep prices high but it won't stay that way for much longer.

I just used some fairly strong 1 1/2" elastic and shortened it until the hood bead pulled inside the groove. Quicker than trawling youtube for any measurement.

The supporting end is held with a small flanged Torx screw so you only need to sew the elastic to the fabric tab on the hood end. I have a set of six small stubby screwdriver type tools, one has the correct size Torx. I think they were the cheapo Rolson brand and £1 for the set from Trotters on a blister card.

22 hours ago, fizz said:

Totally dead... the ac pump engages as the speed of the fan changes when the button is pressed but zero cooling air. 

 

 

There is a pressure switch in the system to protect the compressor by stopping the clutch engaging if the pressure drops too low so there is probably still "some" refrigerant in there. 

Not looked into the 981 cooling system and I've only bled my 987 after changing the pump/stat but the basics on mine are take the top engine cover off. There is a separate tank in the engine bay with an air bleed valve. Top up the coolant, get the engine up to temperature and rev it. Top it up, close the bleed valve, let the engine go stone cold and check/top up in the boot. It shouldn't then use any coolant.

If it's been ok and has developed an air lock, it's either

Leaking coolant out somewhere, drawing in air through the pressure cap as it cools, level so low that air has got to the radiators and the water isn't pumping at idle, 

Or the engine is blowing coolant out the pressure cap.

          This could be because the cap is faulty, letting the system boil, then suck extra air in as it cools - (the system runs under pressure to elevate the boiling point)  

          Or - it could be combustion gases getting into the system . To test for this, if you let the engine go stone cold overnight after a run then open the cap in the boot and it hisses/ releases pressure you have an expensive problem. A garage can do a "sniff test" in the header tank to test and confirm if it is this. 

Leaking is the most likely. Look underneath for evidence or have someone get it up on a lift and find the issue. Overheating an engine doesn't do it any favours.

My quess is you have a leak.

Look underneath to see if there are any wet patches on the trays, drips or crusty white/pinky crystalised deposits.  Fill it up (with coolant if possible) run it, check every few journeys to see if it is still disappearing.

Get a local garage to pressure test the system. If it's pump/reservoir/pipes/radiators claim under warranty for a repair.

The fans will be on if the aircon is running but if you feel under the front arches you should be able to feel the air flow even if you can't hear the fans.

On 6/8/2023 at 1:40 PM, iborguk said:

Wow !

 

Is that some kind of aftermarket coating that has crazed?

I polish the lenses of my lights every 6 months or so when they start to look cloudy. Not a long job, but I was considering what UV protection to use as there seems to be mixed reviews on the results with coatings.

I've run my 2.7 and S3 on both 95ron and premium, and have to say I can't tell any difference in performance, mpg or smoother running in either car.

Researching the reasons to use premium, I now always put it in the S3 as insurance due to the higher compression ratio, running near the limit and risk of piston damage. But use supermarket or Jet premium and won't pay through the nose for Shell VPower, Esso, BP etc. 

I would doubt you have collected enough crud to rot new condensers out after two years.

ATS will vac out your refrigerant and recharge your aircon and check it's working for £36 with the Groupon voucher. They won't (can't) replace the refrigerant though if they find it leaks and will leave the system empty (you can then get a refund or recharge when repaired), but at least you'll know if you have a serious leak. 

In reality, it will be an uphill battle keeping a 20 year-old A/C system completely gas tight and I'd consider a £36 recharge every year or two would be acceptable.

If the cooling fans are coming on and the compressor clutch engages, there is still some pressure in the system. Check your damp patches and lines with one of these to see where/if you are losing refrigerant. 

Car And A/C Fluid Leaks Uv Detection 9 LED Torch - FREE BATTERIES | eBay

Just shows what some sellers call "full service history" Four stamps in 89,900 miles. 3 years/38000 miles, then no more until 6 years later. The paperwork may say something different but a bit off-putting at that price.

16 hours ago, moospeed said:

One downside of Boxster ownership as compared to some previous sports cars (lotuses mainly) is there's a definite shift in everyone wanting a race it seems.

Whilst I agree that the bright yellow paint and ===PORSCHE=== written down the side might encourage every yoof with a Fiesta ST to prove something, I've had similarly vibrant sports cars before without noticing it as much.  I'm just about to go for a drive and I can guarantee I'll experience a few raspy exhausts going by like their ar*e is on fire.

For reference, I only ever enjoy a spirited drive when I'm away from other lunatics... I never get baited... one lunatic on a section of road is quite enough.

Better to not take the bait than to be out accelerated on a dual carriageway by a Fiesta ST

7 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

You are welcome to come and refit mine  

I'd love to, but have a policy of never touching anyone's car other than wife's, kids and my own. I also decline anyone's request for assistance with house electrics or plumbing.

Other than the legal side and plenty of my own stuff to do, if anything totally unrelated ever goes wrong in the future with something you've touched, you'll get the blame and/or be expected to drop everything to go round and sort them out.

7 hours ago, Menoporsche said:

No that isn’t my problem, the delay is between getting closer to an object and changing the tone of the sensors. I have to reverse a bit, wait 1-2s, listen for the beeps to change, reverse a bit more if necessary. Annoying but still quicker than getting out to look. 

I've fitted five of these type of systems to various cars over the last ten years - the first set being the ugly warty jobs - and apart from a twisted and broken cable in the back of one of the sensors, never had a problem with them. 

1 hour ago, The Caped Crusader said:

And no issues with the sensors not working when you put the car into reverse when just started? Is your car a tiptronic? 

My car is a manual and no issues at all. It gives a single beep when selecting reverse then goes silent until something is within range. The system will become active whenever the reversing lights are on.

One of my first jobs was to fit a set of reversing sensors. 

The ones I bought were in a plain white box and similar to the ones in the link below. Obviously some will say they are a pile of **** because they are only £20 but mine have worked faultlessly for the best part of two years. 

OEM FLUSH FIT PARKING SENSOR KIT - CLEARANCE STOCK | eBay

I've used the hole saw to fit bumper sensors in the past but the set I bought similar to the one above had a tool like the one below which I would recommend you use as it gives a better finish with a slightly radiused smooth hole.

Sealey Parking Sensor Aid Bumper Hole Cutter 19mm 5054511203646 | eBay 

A light skim of spray colour then lacquer to the sensors. Don't worry about getting paint on the foam - it just peels off in a ring once it has dried.

I fitted the sensors into the holders before sticking into the bumper. Cleaned the bumper so the 3M pads stuck but also keyed around the holders and added three dots of epoxy resin to make sure they stay in place. The sensors screw into the holders so they can be adjusted and set flush with the bumper but make sure you don't put ANY stress on the cables.

Power from the reversing lights - I have no can-bus issues.

I also fitted one of these type cameras between the number plate lights whilst the bumper was off.

Car Reversing Rear View Camera Infrared Night Vision Auto Parking Monitor | eBay

Run the alarm cable into the cabin under the rain tray - no holes needed. I tried it in the boot but couldn't hear it well enough.

The hardest part is removing and re-fitting the bumper Torx screws under the rear spoiler. A 6mm hex ratchet for £8 is a good investment for accessing these.

DON'T fit front parking sensors. My son fitted a combined set and they were a PITA.

I don't know if they sound OEM but they look it and do the job perfectly well.

2 hours ago, Davey P said:

Always great to hear you are looking after my old car mate, nice one! 👍

I use it, enjoy it, and don't wash it very often but I do look after my investment. 

Rear wheel bearings to change and drive shaft service/paint planned for when the weather warms up and I find the required level of RSed, along with a machine polish, ceramic coat and hood re-finish. 

Can I bagsy your Cayman when you have finished with it?

Mine came with 17" wheels with Goodyear tyres.

I bought a set of 18" wheels with Michelin Alpin5 winter tyres last year and the car drives quite a bit differently on the 18" wheels with considerably more grip, harder ride and it seems to highlight a bit of wheel bearing noise. It could just be the softer compound of the Michelins providing the extra grip but will be interesting to compare when the 17" wheels go back on. I'd say the car feels nicer to drive on 17".

The original wheels have been stripped, powder coated, look like new and just waiting a coat of C5 before they are re-fitted.

I wasn't a fan of the blue hood on mine and it was looking a bit faded, so used Protex colour restorer to change it from blue to black two years ago. Easy to apply, it gave a great solid, black, even finish, not hard or brittle, and it looked like new for two summers. My car lives outside and was starting to form green mould across the back this year so the roof had a good scrub with mildew killer then W5. The original blue is now starting to show through slightly along the back edge so will get another coat of Protex this year and I'll also give it a coat of waterproofing as well to see if it lasts longer as I didn't do that last time. 

The Protex stuff is very thin and watery, almost like ink and appeared to soak in but it appears now that it didn't. I think if you use anything thicker and lather it on, it could crack and look a mess and the reality is the hood material won't take a dye. So whatever you use will eventually rub off, and anything you apply will just coat the surface and will need to be re-applied every two or three years to maintain its looks. 

2 hours ago, moospeed said:

Hmmm that’s interesting, so the fuel is entirely cut on coasting in gear (in a manual) - so I could be using more fuel on my economy drive.

If that’s actually the case then why do Porsche do exactly that? There would be nothing to gain.

All to do with engine friction. Coasting in gear down an incline will slow the car down quicker due to engine braking, then the amount of extra fuel to maintain or get it back up to speed would be more than fuelling tick-over whilst coasting. Like stop/start, it could possibly have saved enough fuel on test to drop the vehicle's CO2 emissions, tax band, and make the fictitious economy figures look better. 

I find the mode unnerving in autos, and if you do it in a manual you could be considered not to be in full control of the vehicle.

16 hours ago, Davey P said:

Out of interest, have you got a dash cam?  I wouldn't go anywhere without one these days. There are too many bell ends out there, as you have obviously found out.

Watch the youtube clip of the cyclist throwing himself on someone's car bonnet, then jumping up and cycling off when the camera is pointed out.

I have one of those dashcams that clip on the rear view mirror. Dead easy to fit and remove. Front and back recording and it doubles as a reversing camera switching the screen on when selecting reverse. £20 for the mirror/cameras and £15 for the fixed power supply. Too many scammers out there to be without one.

On 4/18/2023 at 5:36 PM, Davey P said:

I just checked, and mine is showing 34.8 mpg on the display, which probably means I drive like a girl...   Or maybe the superior aerodynamics of the Cayman makes it more efficient than a Boxster.  Yes, that's it, the superior aerodynamics must be the correct answer 😂

I can report that your old Boxster has dropped from displaying 29.5 to 25.8mpg so aerodynamics is possibly not the correct answer.😜

If you have the inclination, the time, the tools and the storage to break it and list all the parts on eBay or Marketplace, I think You'd be surprised at just how much money it would return. Loads of time, hassle, boxes, packing and trips to the post office/drop-off points required though. 

Just look on the bright side, If it was a £25k 981 with a blown engine, you'd have little choice but to spend £10k+ to repair it.

Dirty contaminated oil can lead to all sorts of problems so best to flush the toilet more regularly. Every 20k miles or 2 years is too long IMHO.

General advice is cars that do short runs or worn engines need more frequent oil changes and the best time to change the oil if you take your car off the road for winter is just before it is laid up. 

Some interesting reading.

Oil Degradation (kewengineering.co.uk)